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Old 07-01-2024, 06:43 PM   #1
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Trouble with 2001 Bluebird / International 3800

Converting a 2001 Bluebird with T444E and Allison 2000. A little background before the problem. I have Bluefire to monitor the engine, I got a tune from PHP and I build turbos for a living so the turbo is massaged. Also put in an electronic fan clutch.
Almost finished with the conversion and drove it for the first extended run this last weekend. Two issues, one the engine temp seems to run up to 210, then the fan kicks on and cools it. Happens all the time, no matter how fast or slow I am going.
Second issue, the torque converter wasn't locking. I was told it had an AT545, so I wasn't expecting a locking converter, but I finally read the tag before the trip and found out it is a 2000 series.
Any advice or help to point me in the right direction would be great!
Thanks.

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Old 07-03-2024, 05:01 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2023
Location: Canada
Posts: 400
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E, Allison 2000
Rated Cap: 72
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Originally Posted by TyGen1 View Post
Converting a 2001 Bluebird with T444E and Allison 2000. A little background before the problem. I have Bluefire to monitor the engine, I got a tune from PHP and I build turbos for a living so the turbo is massaged. Also put in an electronic fan clutch.
Almost finished with the conversion and drove it for the first extended run this last weekend. Two issues, one the engine temp seems to run up to 210, then the fan kicks on and cools it. Happens all the time, no matter how fast or slow I am going.
Second issue, the torque converter wasn't locking. I was told it had an AT545, so I wasn't expecting a locking converter, but I finally read the tag before the trip and found out it is a 2000 series.
Any advice or help to point me in the right direction would be great!
Thanks.
1st. These have small rads. Wash out the rad. Can make a big difference.

Last time I played with the servicemax on my laptop I believe I can adjust the electric fan cut in and cut out temps. Mine is factory installed. Unsure what set up you have. Can you adjust your cut in and outs? Another thing you could do is have a fan override switch to engage the fan all the time overriding the set temps.

Don't rule out a failing thermostat, my fan was constantly cycling on and off cruising at 100kph in +30C temps on flat highway. When I drove the bus a few degrees below freezing it was hard to make any heat. I currently have a t-stat on order.

My 2001 bus has a 2000 series transmission. It should lock up on the convertor. If it is not locking up then that would be a source of your heat into your cooling system, I would look at that convertor lock up issue and check your engine fan cut in/out temps.
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:04 AM   #3
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I have a fan controller and can program the cut in and out wherever I would like.
I've pulled the radiator to get cleaned and inspected and bought a new Thermostat, we will see what that does.
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:13 AM   #4
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,126
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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i set my fan to come on at about 202 and goes off about 195.. its on a separate sensor from the main coolant sensor.. my main coolant sensor in the ECM reads a little higher than the fan controller sensor.. there was a setting in my ECM, casnt remem,benr what its called but it does something wierd with averaging coolant temp over time or something.. i turned it off.. if you have an Orion you essentially have all the parameters capability og fod mode servicemaxx.. it helped to make my coolant temps match a little closer... so what i see on my digital dash better matches whats in my dakota digital fan controller..
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Old 07-10-2024, 06:08 AM   #5
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Thanks for the input guys.

I'm using the Dakota Digital PAC-2800 to control the fan and its temperature reading is within 2 degrees of the ECM, so that seems good.

Got the radiator back last night, no more leaks. Reinstalled it with a fresh Thermostat and no change. Engine Temps rise to 210, fan kicks on and cools to 200, then the cycle repeats no matter how I drive...easy or hard. Maybe I'll try 190-200 degrees?

Cadilackid, seems like you are using the same setup fan clutch. Does your engine temp rise while driving flat ground?

Maybe related is that I have not been able to figure out why the torque converter won't lock. No "Check trans" light on. I noticed that when I turn the key and the dash lights up, the ABS and Trans warning lights do not light. I pulled the dash and found the Trans light was good but the ABS light was gone. Makes me wonder if the previous owner pulled it. Also makes me wonder if there is an ABS issue preventing the lockup.
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Old 07-10-2024, 04:28 PM   #6
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Put bulbs in and now the ABS and Trans lights come on when the key is turned...the ABS light stays on. Drove it a bit and it did not turn off.
Took it to a mechanic who was able to plug in and check for codes. He used Wabco to try and check for ABS codes and he had. Little trouble. It would only connect under the Air Brakes and not Hydraulic. It showed no codes.
He also used both Jpro and Allison DOC to check for trans codes. No codes shown from either software. I suggested to him that perhaps the ABS light was causing the Trans to not lock and he said he has never seen that.
Any ideas guys?
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