What's the best drive train for newbies?

[Matencio]

I'm discovering most buses I'm looking at are DT466 motors in the Internationals. The DT has been around forever. Which version is the best to buy? I don't want the DEF and I don't like sensors as they seem to cause more issues for owners. I want one I can work on if I have to. Which version should I purchase? Suggestions?
I'm looking at a 2004 bus with no DEF and minimal sensors but it has 290k miles on it. Tax, title and registration out the door in Florida is $8,100.
Is this too much for this model?
Thanks,
Mike

[sportyrick]

Right now everyone wants a bus so they are not cheap. Seems like the going price now days is $6000 and up. I bought my 1976 BB in 2005 for $1350 which was gas but no one cared back then. Being an old hot rodder I wanted that 427 but have recently changed to a 1995 DT466. You asked so..... the best DT466 to buy in my opinion is 1994-5 and a few in 1996. Fully mechanical with the good Bosch pump, IH did tell me that that is the best engine they ever made. They put tens of thousands of them in tractors too. Being that old hot rodder I couldn't leave well enough alone and the dump truck only having 25,000 miles with the 3060 Allison I had to have the pump turned up, bigger turbo and timing advanced.

Rust? Tires? Blowby? on your

[cadillackid]

that 94-96 DT466 is an excellent engine for sure.. but tough to find these days... up through 2003 were the best DT466E engines to have.. once you get to 2004 they added EGR (you may find an early 2004 Bus still has a 2003 engine).. if its an 04 or above it wont have the ectra large computer box hanging off the side of it..



EGR before DPF filters wasnt terrible but it did add expensive parts to the engine and the EGR coolers could be prone to failure.. (thoiugh nothing like the Maxxforce DT that came out later)..



if a 2004 DT466E appears well taken care of and shows no signs of leaks id be OK with it.. Pay attention to coolant and oil leaks and Residue near the front of the engine. these could indicate the dreaded timing-cover failure.. a serious repair that can be done at home by a VERY mechanically inclided individual but new dealer parts are a grand or more.. and sending it to a shop is going to be in the multi 1000 dollar range.



if its good and clean up front then its likely one of the good ones that wont fail.