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Old 09-11-2019, 12:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I bought one of these and uses HVAC tape to tape sensors to metal inlet and outlet of radiators, A/C coils and the like for various testing... you can get sensors with longer wires..


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That looks like an excellent diagnostic tool. It has quite a range of temperatures it can measure! However, at $158.00 I will have to wait untill I can afford to make such a purchase. Thank you VERY much for the link and the fine tool idea.

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Old 09-15-2019, 03:39 AM   #22
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I have been reading through a very good document from CAT called "Know your Cooling System":


CAT KnowYourCoolingSystem.pdf


They indicate that by monitoring 6 points in the cooling system, the problem can be determined:


1. Radiator top tank
2. Radiator bottom tank or water pump inlet
3. Water pump outlet or oil cooler inlet
4. Water temperature regulator housing
5. Torque converter oil outlet
6. Engine oil manifold or oil cooler outlet


So two of those nice temperature monitors would be handy. I am not yet done reading the document, but perhaps it can shed more light on the subject for me.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:32 AM   #23
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ive always measured trans temp in the pan.. but measuring fluid temp going into and out of the cooling loops to the radiator would be a good indication of how much loadthe trans puts on the cooling system..


radiator inlet and outlet are also good as they let you know if your radiator and fan are actually doing anything.. ie is there a temp drop across the coils?


as for my temp logger.. sure i can (and will) build something much cheaper, however I do a lot of stuff with A/C.. both in my own and helping people get their Home and car / Bus A/C working , installed, etc.. so measuring temperatures easily is important.. plus im admittedly a tool-geek. so if I can put a tool in my tool-box that I'll use more than once I'll likely do it.. lol
-Christopher
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:49 AM   #24
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International cluster freeze is a easy fix. Go to YouTube and see how the guru fixed it. International cluster freeze google itCheers
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:28 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
ive always measured trans temp in the pan.. but measuring fluid temp going into and out of the cooling loops to the radiator would be a good indication of how much loadthe trans puts on the cooling system..


radiator inlet and outlet are also good as they let you know if your radiator and fan are actually doing anything.. ie is there a temp drop across the coils?


as for my temp logger.. sure i can (and will) build something much cheaper, however I do a lot of stuff with A/C.. both in my own and helping people get their Home and car / Bus A/C working , installed, etc.. so measuring temperatures easily is important.. plus im admittedly a tool-geek. so if I can put a tool in my tool-box that I'll use more than once I'll likely do it.. lol
-Christopher

I learned today that a temperature difference of 6 to 9 degrees (F) between the top tank of the radiator and the bottom tank is a healthy radiator. I'll be flushing the coolant system tomorrow and will take IR gun measurements of the top and bottom tanks.


I'd love to see your home brewed temperature logger when you have made it.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:39 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
I have been reading through a very good document from CAT called "Know your Cooling System":


Attachment 37541


They indicate that by monitoring 6 points in the cooling system, the problem can be determined:


1. Radiator top tank
2. Radiator bottom tank or water pump inlet
3. Water pump outlet or oil cooler inlet
4. Water temperature regulator housing
5. Torque converter oil outlet
6. Engine oil manifold or oil cooler outlet


So two of those nice temperature monitors would be handy. I am not yet done reading the document, but perhaps it can shed more light on the subject for me.
Now you're on to something. That is a pretty good article.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:41 AM   #27
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For what it’s worth- I run four international trucks in a fleet. One truck got a newer engine with more beans for hp. It’s been overheating and after spending time on a racing engine forum tracing radiator issues I have discovered the simplest fix!Airflow- The fan blows plenty of air but the hood vents are t large enough to
Let the hot air pass out and away from the engine. So a McGyver fix was to open the hood an additional 3/4” to let the volume of air out. I will be enlarging the tiny vents in the fiberglass hood and adding two or three 2” holes to the left and right fender well. So open that hood and see if that makes any changes.
Cheers
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Old 09-16-2019, 10:23 AM   #28
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Umm, on most trucks your hot radiator air will pass through the engine compartment and exit toward the ground and wheel wells, not out the hood.
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Old 09-16-2019, 02:37 PM   #29
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Well, check the edge of the hood - my 275hp and 330hp unit’s have vent holes along the edge. I’ll snapA photo and show ya later. But I’ve been hauling heavy 38,000 payloads up to a job site, When I opened the hood to Let More air evacuate the engine compartment the temp
Dropped quickly and the next 10 deliveries to the same site the engine didn’t overheat.
Cheers
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:17 AM   #30
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Thank you for the replies!


In this FS-65, the fan blows the air down under the engine, even with the hood open. I was a bit surprised the first time I noticed this. Some air does go over the engine and to other parts of the compartment, but the volume moves down.
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:43 AM   #31
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I’m NOT a mechanic but this happed to me. Engine running hot-fan roar 20sec every 2min-coolant in reservoir so I figured full of coolant. I read on this forum about expelling air from the radiator system. Wow, I had to add several gallons of water!

IDK , Worth a shot.

Dave
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Old 09-18-2019, 10:21 AM   #32
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/ha...tml#post336595

I found this informative thread bcuz I am researching heat issues also.
Dave
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:37 AM   #33
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I’m NOT a mechanic but this happed to me. Engine running hot-fan roar 20sec every 2min-coolant in reservoir so I figured full of coolant. I read on this forum about expelling air from the radiator system. Wow, I had to add several gallons of water!

IDK , Worth a shot.

Dave

That is a good point. There is a correct way to fill the cooling system. On this particular model, the thermostat housing has a vent line leading to the overflow tank. The thermostats have air bleed holes in them to allow air to move out of the system via the vent lines. This is fortunate. It does not preclude that line or the thermostats from being clogged. In this engine, they are clear.
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:38 AM   #34
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Quote:
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/ha...tml#post336595

I found this informative thread bcuz I am researching heat issues also.
Dave

I have been following that thread as well.
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:44 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
That is a good point. There is a correct way to fill the cooling system. On this particular model, the thermostat housing has a vent line leading to the overflow tank. The thermostats have air bleed holes in them to allow air to move out of the system via the vent lines. This is fortunate. It does not preclude that line or the thermostats from being clogged. In this engine, they are clear.

I have air bleed valves on my heaters. My front heater is 30’ away from the rear engine and I was told air would collect at the highest point. I don’t know if you would have that or not[emoji848].
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:13 AM   #36
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I have spent the last two days draining, filling, draining, filling, and running the engine up to operating temperature. I can see the little bubbles work their way out through the coolant reservior. This is how it is supposed to work. As soon as I get the water to run clean, I will run a coolant cleaner in the engine and do it all again until clear. After the flush, I will put in the extended life coolant. All of the CAT manuals indicate a coolant flush/cleaning is the FIRST thing to do in overheating situations, after the obvious physical examination of the engine.


As a side nte, I used an IR gun to measure the temperature at the top and the bottom of the radiator while it was running. The differential in temperature is 9 to 12 degrees, which is the proper differential. I sure hope the cleanout will do the trick.
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Old 11-21-2019, 02:49 AM   #37
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I am overdue for an update on this thread.


Yes, the flush cleaned out the coolant system and now the engine is running 189 degrees to 192 degrees most all of the time. I *think* I saw 195 degrees ONCE while flushing and road testing. It took a very long time to get the flush fluid (water) to run clear. Even when I stopped, it was still a bit rusty in color.
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:29 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I am overdue for an update on this thread.


Yes, the flush cleaned out the coolant system and now the engine is running 189 degrees to 192 degrees most all of the time. I *think* I saw 195 degrees ONCE while flushing and road testing. It took a very long time to get the flush fluid (water) to run clear. Even when I stopped, it was still a bit rusty in color.
What type of anti-freeze (color) did your bus come with?
How many gallons of coolant did it take to refill?

Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2019, 03:58 AM   #39
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Quote:
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What type of anti-freeze (color) did your bus come with?
How many gallons of coolant did it take to refill?

Thanks!
The original coolant color was rust. I thought that really was the color, but no, it had turned that color. I believe it was supposed to be reddish pink. I changed it from the standard diesel antifreeze with SCA's to the extended life coolant with OAT (organic acid technology) which does not require monitoring the SCA level every year. It also lasts up to 6 years.


As for capacity ... mine holds 6.5 gallons. However, I have removed all of the heater lines and looped it right in the engine compartment. The capacity is now the least it can possibly be.
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