OBX Bus will not turn over.

[TaliaDPerkins]

Other label.

[TaliaDPerkins]

It seem not to be even trying to engage the starter.

[Ronnie]

On the starter there is going to be a small wire that engages the solenoid and makes the starter run. I would take it off and check for current when the key is turned on to the start position. This will tell you if the problem is before the starter are could be the starter itself. You can run a jumper to the solenoid directly and see if it will start. Just be careful doing this. Maybe some videos on youtube showing this?

[Truthseeker4449]

I agree, start with the basics. First Double check all your exits are properly latched and not locked. No point in chasing your tail if the starter is receiving a start signal, then it's just a bad starter. If the starter isn't receiving power then that's you need to look deeper.

From what I understand the MVPs are completely electromechanical with no computer controlled interlocks outside of the transmission needing to be in neutral, more simply put "old school". My MVP is a fair bit different spec wise but has three solenoids in the compartment under the driver's window, I believe one of those is the interlock solenoid. You may only have one, as my bus has a wheelchair lift with its own interlocks and a kill switch to silence noisy accessories quickly.

Something else to try, on my Loudoun bus (not an MVP, HDX) I have to hold in a button at the upper right of the engine door jam while pressing the starter button on the panel. The bus also will not start from the ignition switch with the rear engine door open.

[TaliaDPerkins]

...Thanks to your prompting. This is the latch I first found on the rear window emergency exit. It's the big hasp latch coming out of the black box and engaging the bent steel plate attached to the back hatch. I could just drive it off from the lot, and it seemed ok again after first inspection when the bus wouldn't start.


Then I noticed the red lever arm, and discovered the door would open no matter what position the red lever arm was in if that first latch was unengaged. The latches operated by that arm were not catching their strike plates on the window frame. There was a limit switch on the driver's side strike plate. It was completely unengaged. I propped the door open with a 9V, closing that switch and putting the other (then unengaged) latch in the latched position.


It started just fine.



The machined bars with wedges on them which engage the strike plates aren't out far enough now. Obviously they were when I first drove it, or I wouldn't have driven it. They are positioned on the bars levered by the red emergency lever by set screws.


I think a neighborhood kid (ahem, or mine) monkeyed with my bus and got the rear door open in the process sliding those bars with wedges towards the center and unengaging that limit switch.

[Truthseeker4449]

Glad to hear you figured it out. I've had similar issues with both of my buses, on the HDX the mount for the switch was bent and would start buzzing if jostled. Actually had to do a repair going down the road right after buying it to silence it. We used the packing from a USB charger to shim the button until I got around to unhooking the wires and removing the switch. All I had to do was unhook the ground and cap off the other wires after pulling the harness through into the engine bay.

They just get stuck on the MVP, I've been tapping them with improvised hammers when its a problem. I'll get around soon to removing all the door switches. And unsnarling the rest of the nightmare wiring on mine....

[TaliaDPerkins]

And it's acting just like before. I am morally certain someone is screwing with it. Gotta get some motion activated wifi enabled trail cams on it. And lots of locks.


In the mean time, I'm again getting that buzzer and nothing else, it's not attempting to pull in the starter. Every known switch checks out.


I'd like to cut them all loose and wire nut them closed.


A) These are made connections to permit starting, correct?
B) What's the best way to get a operator's/maintenance manual with wiring for a 2001 Thomas MVP ?


Someone did already complain to the town that I had it, f-----g Karen's.

[TaliaDPerkins]

...will override everything else and it will start.


I've got to get a manual with wiring diagrams so I can rip out all the flakey interlocks.

[Truthseeker4449]

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. Hopefully it doesn't escalate too bad, definitely agree with getting cameras if it is a recurring issue before it does.

I began removing the switches the other day on my MVP and found that it is not as simple as my HDX by unhooking the grounds. Unhooked the grounds and now my bus doesn't start too. None of the electrical solenoids I previously mentioned seemed related to the interlocks either. Gotta find time after work to go out with my electrical gear to bypass the switches.

[shorthair]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Oh yes, he does, well we know cats are not trainable, they do their own thing. Ours do like tummy rubs though.

Currently have a 3 mo old kitten that we have trained to fetch, but can't teach the little Basser to QUIT chewing on my shoe laces.

[CoffeeGuy]

Getting past the safety lock-outs is a rite of passage for every new skoolie owner. I had the same problem after I got my bus home, and it was the same thing, rear emergency exit wasn't fully latched.

Then I started messing around with the buzzers and in one of those "what would happen if I do this?" moments, I jumped across a buzzer and blew the relay that controlled all of the emergency stuff. It also controlled the wipers, but since I am not going anywhere, this is a non-issue until I am much deeper into the build. The good side is that I circumvented all of the emergency no-start issues and can remove wires and buzzers with worry-free abandon.

Your problems could be just one relay away from nirvana.