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Old 04-25-2024, 08:37 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 15
1995 12v 5.9 with A545 bluebird front engine

so i tried to reply to my other thred but the replys keep getting deleted so ill make a new one.

so i did the KDP fix mine was walking out.


i did the 3k gov springs and it also helped the bus idle better. (it was stock and i had to cut the wire)

added a EGT,trans temp,fuel pressure, and boost guages. (bought the glow shift ones)


things i need to do/ have not figuered out how to do yet are below. any guides out there

retorque head bolts.
i see this as a 50/50 to do or not alot of forums out there when i google this say they ruined the head gasket when doing this.



Advance p-pump timing to 16•
(not sure how to do this)

Pinch off boost reference line
bought the clamps not sure what line


Remove fuel plate: worried about doing this and causing it to stick or break.

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Old 04-25-2024, 09:25 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,775
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
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Originally Posted by Vincef View Post
so i tried to reply to my other thred but the replys keep getting deleted so ill make a new one.

so i did the KDP fix mine was walking out.


i did the 3k gov springs and it also helped the bus idle better. (it was stock and i had to cut the wire)

added a EGT,trans temp,fuel pressure, and boost guages. (bought the glow shift ones)


things i need to do/ have not figuered out how to do yet are below. any guides out there

retorque head bolts.
i see this as a 50/50 to do or not alot of forums out there when i google this say they ruined the head gasket when doing this.



Advance p-pump timing to 16•
(not sure how to do this)

Pinch off boost reference line
bought the clamps not sure what line


Remove fuel plate: worried about doing this and causing it to stick or break.
They're getting deleted because you have 3 posts and are trying to post a hyperlink. Spam filters are catching it and redirecting your posts to moderators for approval. Seeing as how we don't have 24/7 moderators, you'll have to wait a bit before it's approved.

Once you have a dozen or so posts, your stuff will no longer need approval.
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Old 04-25-2024, 09:33 AM   #3
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,775
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
As far as what you're wanting/waiting to do.

1) retorque head bolts. I've never done it, only installed arp studs. I've never had issues with original head gasket. But I've only ever done it by removing a bolt and then reinstalling/torqueing a stud one at a time.

2)Advance p-pump timing to 16°. Youtube it https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+timing+adjust

3) Pinch off boost reference line. Boost reference line runs from intake manifold to afc on the injection pump. I like to have mine functioning and adjusted correctly, not really sure what the advantage of pinching this off is.

4) Remove fuel plate. Again, I like to leave it, and adjust it accordingly, as it serves a purpose in my eyes.
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Old 05-20-2024, 09:59 AM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 15
so looking into a fuel plate swap and from what i am reading the #10 plate seems to be the best for towing. most of the kits online are about 300$ and then some ebay kits are 20-50$. or is this just a waste of time and i should just slide the fuel plate?
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Old 05-20-2024, 10:23 AM   #5
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Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,382
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
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the cummins forum stuff and our industrial cummins info doesn't jibe much of the time.

iirc, i looked up my fuel plate and it was better than what the websites were selling as a tow fuel plate for a dodge cummins.

find out what you have before you start ordering parts.

slide everything forward and see how it is. or....
slide the plate forward and leave the afc where it is.

you have many options to test before you throw parts at it.
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Old 05-20-2024, 10:49 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
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sounds good thanks. any tips on how to get the security bolt off/out and do i need to replace it?
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Old 05-20-2024, 11:07 AM   #7
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
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Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
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I 2nd what turf said. Pop open the pump and see what you have. The #10 works well on a stock setup. Grind what you currently have to a 10 profile, or buy the 10 off ebay for 20 bucks. Bosch ones are 200 because bosch. It's a simple plate, no need to make it expensive.

You don't have to run one and can drive by pyrometer. I don't like that because I'd rather have a properly tuned setup so that anyone can drive it and not risk damaging something. FYI with the at545 setup right, you'll likely never be in danger of lugging this thing anyways, if you don't have a #10 installed, just pull it out and run by pyro temps/ smoke production.
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Old 05-20-2024, 11:24 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Vincef View Post
sounds good thanks. any tips on how to get the security bolt off/out and do i need to replace it?
i remember that as the hardest part of the whole process.

use a file or dremel / vice grips / whatever it takes to remove. get a couple of new screws to replace the tamper proof ones.

tuning the starwheel is fun too!

edit:
i think i recall there is a torx size that almost fits the screws. you can pound the torx into the bolthead with a hammer and make it work
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Old 05-20-2024, 01:18 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
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Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
I've always used a chisel. Supposedly there is a torx size you can hammer in there that works.
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