2000 FE Bluebird ECU location cummins 5.9 24V

[Bus514]

I have a 2000 Bluebird FE with a 24V Cummins 5.9 I've found that the 12 volt connection at the J1939 OBD port is only producing 4.9 volts when it should have 12 volts. This prevents the Cummins code reader from operating. I have been looking and can't find the ECU anywhere. I've tried tracing the wires back but it gets lost in the mess of split loom. I'm thinking it's just a bad connection but want to check what comes out of the ECU. Does anyone know where Bluebird hides this?

[Njsurf73]

On almost every Cummins (even my rear engine) the ecu is on the right side of the engine block, towards the back. It's under the rear of my vp44 fuel pump.

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[2kool4skool]

I would check the multi-pin connector at the DS rear of the engine compartment.

[Bus514]

I'm only now getting around to tackling this problem. Thanks for the replies.

[Bus514]

I'm thinking the ECU is showing signs of failure. I couldn't find any electrical connection problems. Took all connections apart, cleaned, reassembled. It still shows 4.9 volts at the OBD port where it should be 12 volts according to Cummins. The digital hour meter and trip odometer flicker constantly but dial speedometer and tachometer work fine. Occasionally it goes into limp home mode but can be reset by restarting the engine. anyone have thoughts?

[2kool4skool]

This is Dodge stuff but may help, the ecu loc should be the same. Geno's has been very helpfull, call them.

ECM details for 1998-2002 Dodge Ram trucks with 24 Valve Cummins diesel engine " Engine RPM and timing are derived from the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on 1998-2000 models"

Our 5.9 was throwing codes and our ScangaugeD read them. We had Low volts, erratic rpm signal and 1 other. Cleaning and applying dielectric grease to the multi-pin connector solved the low volt issue and a new CKP solved the rpm signal. HTH. A SGD is a great tool and not expensive.

Here's some of my thread on this; I replaced the crank sensor today.

Your bus will probably be a bit different.

Disconnect neg at batt.
Disconnect neg. connections at buss bar near starter.
Loosen or remove starter, 10mm 12 pt. is required.
If not removed, pry starter away from sensor and remove sensor from block.
Unplug sensor and re-plug new one.
Replace all that was loosened or removed.

I needed a 10mm 12pt. box ratchet to remove the top starter bolt. There are 3.
I had to unplug the multi-pin connector and move the dipstick tube to see the bolt.

Next time I can do this in a couple hours, this was the first time and it took me all day at a 72 y/o's pace.

Road test to come.

This bus would produce a code after being fully warmed, shut off, then re-started. The code would show as SES after 1/2 hr. or so of running FULLY warmed. The engine would de-rate to lower power and the idle had a nasty surge. It would clear after a few seconds to a few minutes., usually instantly via the Scangauge. The tach never showed any rpm fluctuations.

[2kool4skool]

https://vantage.blue-bird.com/Portal...03562_0001.PDF

[Bus514]

Good information, thanks.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Bus514

I'm thinking the ECU is showing signs of failure. I couldn't find any electrical connection problems. Took all connections apart, cleaned, reassembled. It still shows 4.9 volts at the OBD port where it should be 12 volts according to Cummins. The digital hour meter and trip odometer flicker constantly but dial speedometer and tachometer work fine. Occasionally it goes into limp home mode but can be reset by restarting the engine. anyone have thoughts?

Oh boy.

I'm in about the same pickle you are.

After you've checked for good, strong batteries w/ clean grounds....

From what I gather, Cummins Industrial engines do not work with Dodge stuff. The electronics are different and the programming is not interchangeable.

I'm having same issue, suspected computer, cleaned the connections. Bus runs fine, but my cruise control and high-idle do not work despite dash switches good. This can be sign of a failing ECM, so I took ECM in to my local Cummins dealer to be tested. He was complete jerk (Chandler Services) and would not test the unit despite me saying I'd be happy to pay the $125 diag fee posted. He insisted I got the box of ebay or stole it. He wanted whole bus and I don't want to drive it unless I'm sure it is working properly. I wrote a letter to Cummins Corporate and results will be forthcoming.

So, your best bet is to call your local Cummins shop- ask if he will test just the box.

But there is more.... The Blue Bird dash displays crap out if they see more than something stupid like 14 volts, so there is that to consider.

Where would they get surge? Vehicles going to auction sit, sitting batteries die, dead vehicles get jumped.

Second, The Leece Neville alternators are apparently crap and the voltage regulator dies, dumping a/c voltage from the alternator into your pipes.

get your dash fixed here maybe? have not tried them.

[joeblack5]

Wow. Don. I am 57 now and I hope that I will have your energy and mindset to tackle problems like that when your age. Bless you.
Working on starter and alternator and feel every muscle. I remember getting under my cars without problem . Now ever time I get down I have to sigh.
Later j