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01-07-2018, 12:35 AM
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#41
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Have we got other folks here that have rodded a boiler?
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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01-07-2018, 08:55 AM
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#42
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 20,060
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy
HA are you an old HVAC guy?
"boilers are always easier to fix thanA/C..."
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id rather fix A/C than a boiler.. or at least rather than troubleshooting flow issues which were often times at the root of boiler failures.. the boiler itself was easy but serious issues in hydronics - much tougher to shoot trouble in than even the electronic controls of a building..
-Christopher
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01-08-2018, 08:02 AM
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#43
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beoria,Il
Posts: 90
Year: 2002
Engine: 7.3
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How do i find starter killer relay? I have smaller e450 with same issue i never found key but i wired straight from battery and starter and in position on i could press button and van starts but never out of .how do i trace this?
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01-08-2018, 10:43 AM
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#44
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beoria,Il
Posts: 90
Year: 2002
Engine: 7.3
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Somehow i cut off buzzer one by one so far bus starts.also whats this warning sign on pic
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01-08-2018, 11:16 AM
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#45
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
id rather fix A/C than a boiler.. or at least rather than troubleshooting flow issues which were often times at the root of boiler failures.. the boiler itself was easy but serious issues in hydronics - much tougher to shoot trouble in than even the electronic controls of a building..
-Christopher
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Clean your strainers make sure the hwp's are running and your boilers are not off on a safety pneumatic air available ( unless your building has Belimos) and you are golden....
Personally have gone from air to hybrids to drives and ddc . When retirement comes this year gonna get a job programming sprinkler timers
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01-11-2018, 02:46 PM
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#46
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beoria,Il
Posts: 90
Year: 2002
Engine: 7.3
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How it comes that coolant rusted color and feels like water lol.i googled hard but didnt find wheres heater access front one to flush it inside.ive cut rear one and didnt loop with middle one coz of coolant .
Also both trans and engine looks like fluids werent changed in a long time coz rust took over aesthetically.
Found a warning code 268 or 278 lul
How do i trust school guys anymore with "excellent condition" lmao
Im dead😆
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01-11-2018, 03:25 PM
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#47
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I flushed my entire cooling system, including heaters, by using two bottles of radiator cleaning additive. The radiator cleaner is designed for 3 or 4 gallon systems, and since my cooling system is 7 gallons it requires 2 bottles to have the proper cleaning strength. It will also clean your heaters internally.
This is something you're going to have to do after you get your bus running since this cleaning will require bringing the engine up to operating temperature.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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01-11-2018, 05:22 PM
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#48
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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No boiler rodding here.
Controls guy
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01-11-2018, 05:36 PM
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#49
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beoria,Il
Posts: 90
Year: 2002
Engine: 7.3
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Thank u Robin,i have problem :new water wont suck in system.i filled out bottle and it doesnt go further.what it could be.i tried run bus with heaters for 3 min .still the same.
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01-11-2018, 06:09 PM
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#51
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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There are similarities between the Dodge pickup engines and bus engines, but trusting Dodge information can get you in trouble at times.
I like to park on a steep hill with the radiator cap being at the highest point and then attempt to fill the cooling system completely. You'd likely have to run the engine for 15 or 20 minutes to warm it up properly.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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01-11-2018, 06:17 PM
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#52
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,160
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy
HA are you an old HVAC guy?
"boilers are always easier to fix thanA/C..."
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What?
You must not have ever had to build or tear one down?
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01-11-2018, 06:24 PM
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#53
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,160
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGZ91
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You shouldn't have to remove your thermostat.
The thermostat is set to open at 180-190 degrees so you need to run the bus until the coolant temperature reaches the thermostat opening temp and for quite a bit after that to make sure everything is circulated through the entire system.
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01-11-2018, 06:38 PM
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#54
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,160
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivetboy
No boiler rodding here.
Controls guy
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That would make a boiler easier to work on than AC until your pipefitter buddy/boiler installer had them all running in hand just fine until the control man wired them master and slave (20 seperate buildings that the buddy ran all the conduit in the ditch between the building for the control man) and nothing would work and everyone's hollering at the boiler installer to get them back on line?
I know a few control men that would beg to differ on which ones easier to diagnose.
I went to all the boilers disconnected the 4-20 on all but one to get them fired But it ended up being the heat net manufacturers fault because they programmed them for lonworks and we were using bac net even though we bought them to used with bac net.
I know you will probably say it's cause I didn't have you and you could of looked at the circuit boards and seen it?
Just giving you a hard time. CONTROL MAN.
Take care
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01-11-2018, 08:22 PM
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#55
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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No, you misunderstood, I am a Controls guy.
We hang with other Controls guys.
Anything will run in hand and it will stay that way if you have a fitter doing your networking from down in the the ditch and he does not know the difference between Bacnet and LonWorks.
Call the Controls guy next time and He will hook you up.
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01-11-2018, 08:26 PM
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#56
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Also, in a lot of older controllers, network cards look totally different...
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01-11-2018, 08:32 PM
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#57
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,160
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Still ain't and never will be the control guy with the computer but it's all bacnet here and the suppliers still want to send mod bus and lonworks **** that don't quite work with bacnet.
Have a good weekend
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01-11-2018, 08:35 PM
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#58
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,160
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Also get back to your damn rivets cause this build is waiting on the rivet guy to get done and I ain't seen him in awhile.
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01-11-2018, 09:29 PM
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#59
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Almost There
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beoria,Il
Posts: 90
Year: 2002
Engine: 7.3
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That way filling up thru thermostat hole made my day.freakin rusted **** spit off.
besides that found sprinkling injector fuel line and small exhaust smoke
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01-13-2018, 02:16 PM
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#60
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Does your bus have the trans cooler from the radiator?
"I like to park on a steep hill with the radiator cap being at the highest point and then attempt to fill the cooling system completely. You'd likely have to run the engine for 15 or 20 minutes to warm it up properly."
My 1991 T/C 2000 5.9 AT 245 has a 1/4" hard plastic line that starts at the transmission cooler runs up by the radiator filler cap with a valve at the end. The book gives a process where you add coolant and vent this line into the radiator a few times to get all of the air bubbles out of the system.
Hope this works for you too!
It seems you are not short on hills though..
Joe
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