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Old 06-25-2017, 07:57 PM   #1
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adding lots of parts

here is my photo blog of today.

tear down the radiator, air charge cooler, get ready to replace alternator, fanclutch and eventually the transmission.



got the radiators out



took the fan off



and then got everything kinda cleaned up




oh yeah, here is that AT1545 transmission going in soon too.

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Old 06-25-2017, 07:59 PM   #2
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Wow! That tranny crate looks to be $200 bucks worth by itself!
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:31 PM   #3
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I love to see teardowns and mod builds!!!!

that belt tensioner looks like its at a wierd position / angle in regards to the water pump / fan pulley...

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:02 AM   #4
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that belt tensioner looks like its at a wierd position / angle in regards to the water pump / fan pulley...

i may have reassembled it wrong. laying on top of the valves is a different view. chances are i screwed up.

oh, and i'm pretty sure that dent in the trans pan was from my cheater bar. it tore an air hose too. i still have the ratchet, but the cheater is nowhere to be found.
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:11 AM   #5
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I was trying to find diagrams online of that engine.. of course since the 5.9 was used in dodge trucks all I find online are diagrams of dodge trucks.. and they have the tensioner off to the side..

that cheater bar could have run itself through the belt partially causing your damage...
-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:03 AM   #6
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From Nat ster
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:23 AM   #7
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Durf, if you look at Nat's, and then look back at yours... It looks like you can see where yours used to be mounted lower down on the bracket like Nat's is.
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:24 PM   #8
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radiator and Charge air are off to the radiator shop for cleaning and coring.


oh, i and suppose if i look at the tensioner, i can see where it used to be from the grease leaving a clean spot.
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:37 PM   #9
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Well, I believe the belt issue just got solved.

I usually remove the front bumper and then pull the intercooler/radiator out as one complete assembly.
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:45 PM   #10
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Well, I believe the belt issue just got solved.
you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:14 PM   #11
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I found your problem. It isn't the tensioner, tranny, or cheater bar. You have a cat stuck in the radiator.
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:21 PM   #12
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well....

she's about to get a good rodding.

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Old 06-26-2017, 03:27 PM   #13
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you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time
It's all good man
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:56 PM   #14
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you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time

Is that how your belt tensioner got mounted in the wrong spot?

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Old 06-27-2017, 07:07 AM   #15
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well.....
i won't say that it wasn't a contributing factor, but i stand by my early repairs of laying on the top valves installing the belt with a reach around.

when dealing with a pot head like me, sometimes its easy to get you guys down to my level than me up to yours.

the fanclutch hasn't budged in 2 days, hoping it comes off today.
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Old 06-27-2017, 07:10 AM   #16
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be sure you are turning it the correct way.. some of the fan clutches have left hand threads
-Christopher
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:08 AM   #17
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the fan clutch connection may be left hand threaded. im not sure its threaded at all. maybe its pressed on.

the pictures in quickserve are not correct to this set up.

it appears that i have this pulley



then it goes wonky. it looks like this extension on the pulley.



and then an electromagnetic fanclutch which i also dont find anywhere is on the spacer.

that spacer is from a 4bt parts catalog.

there doesn't look to be any flat sided nut in between the clutch and the pulley. today i will try removing the pulley by looosening its holding bolts, and see if i can seperate the 2 on the bench instead of the motor.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:16 AM   #18
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thats the older style of mounting a clutch and usually the easier to take apart.. the type that are threaded oin are usually a bear to get off. on my DEV bus the clutch wasnt officially pressed on but it does have a pilot from the water pump that goes into the clutch maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to keep it running straight.. mine was a little stiff to get loose after I took the 4 bolts out. i could imagine if water got between those two it could rust things in place..

im Navistar so cummins may vary.

-Christopher
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:20 AM   #19
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Every one that I've replaced on a bus was held on by 4 bolts. Those bolts also captured the pulley and held it to the fan hub bolted to the engine.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Every one that I've replaced on a bus was held on by 4 bolts. Those bolts also captured the pulley and held it to the fan hub bolted to the engine.
the later Navistar serp belt stuff went to a single threaded hub... if its driven with the back of the belt, the clutch is threaded stanbdard.. lefty-loosey. , if its driven by the ribs of the belt its reverse left hand thread.

this is true of the T-444E, DT-466E, VT-365. I diont know about the Maxxforce engines as I dont have experience with them.. the threaded hub type you use a massive 2" wrench and a spanner tool to hold the pulley that lays against the frame.

the earlier Navistar V-belt engines.. for sure the DT-360, DT-466 mechanicals used the 4 bolts style.

-Christopher
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