adding lots of parts

turf · 06-25-2017, 08:57 PM

here is my photo blog of today.

tear down the radiator, air charge cooler, get ready to replace alternator, fanclutch and eventually the transmission.

got the radiators out

took the fan off

and then got everything kinda cleaned up

oh yeah, here is that AT1545 transmission going in soon too.

Tango · 06-25-2017, 08:59 PM

Wow! That tranny crate looks to be $200 bucks worth by itself!

cadillackid · 06-25-2017, 10:31 PM

I love to see teardowns and mod builds!!!!

that belt tensioner looks like its at a wierd position / angle in regards to the water pump / fan pulley...

-Christopher

turf · 06-26-2017, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

that belt tensioner looks like its at a wierd position / angle in regards to the water pump / fan pulley...

i may have reassembled it wrong. laying on top of the valves is a different view. chances are i screwed up.

oh, and i'm pretty sure that dent in the trans pan was from my cheater bar. it tore an air hose too. i still have the ratchet, but the cheater is nowhere to be found.

cadillackid · 06-26-2017, 08:11 AM

I was trying to find diagrams online of that engine.. of course since the 5.9 was used in dodge trucks all I find online are diagrams of dodge trucks.. and they have the tensioner off to the side..

that cheater bar could have run itself through the belt partially causing your damage...
-Christopher

2kool4skool · 06-26-2017, 09:03 AM

From Nat ster

Rameses · 06-26-2017, 10:23 AM

Durf, if you look at Nat's, and then look back at yours... It looks like you can see where yours used to be mounted lower down on the bracket like Nat's is.

turf · 06-26-2017, 01:24 PM

radiator and Charge air are off to the radiator shop for cleaning and coring.

oh, i and suppose if i look at the tensioner, i can see where it used to be from the grease leaving a clean spot.

Booyah45828 · 06-26-2017, 01:37 PM

Well, I believe the belt issue just got solved.

I usually remove the front bumper and then pull the intercooler/radiator out as one complete assembly.

turf · 06-26-2017, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Well, I believe the belt issue just got solved.

you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time

Brewerbob · 06-26-2017, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turf

I found your problem. It isn't the tensioner, tranny, or cheater bar. You have a cat stuck in the radiator.

turf · 06-26-2017, 03:21 PM

well....

she's about to get a good rodding.

Booyah45828 · 06-26-2017, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turf

you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time

It's all good man

Rameses · 06-26-2017, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turf

you guys should come to Colorado and let me smoke you up some time

Is that how your belt tensioner got mounted in the wrong spot?

turf · 06-27-2017, 08:07 AM

well.....
i won't say that it wasn't a contributing factor, but i stand by my early repairs of laying on the top valves installing the belt with a reach around.

when dealing with a pot head like me, sometimes its easy to get you guys down to my level than me up to yours.

the fanclutch hasn't budged in 2 days, hoping it comes off today.

cadillackid · 06-27-2017, 08:10 AM

be sure you are turning it the correct way.. some of the fan clutches have left hand threads
-Christopher

turf · 06-27-2017, 09:08 AM

the fan clutch connection may be left hand threaded. im not sure its threaded at all. maybe its pressed on.

the pictures in quickserve are not correct to this set up.

it appears that i have this pulley

then it goes wonky. it looks like this extension on the pulley.

and then an electromagnetic fanclutch which i also dont find anywhere is on the spacer.

that spacer is from a 4bt parts catalog.

there doesn't look to be any flat sided nut in between the clutch and the pulley. today i will try removing the pulley by looosening its holding bolts, and see if i can seperate the 2 on the bench instead of the motor.

cadillackid · 06-27-2017, 09:16 AM

thats the older style of mounting a clutch and usually the easier to take apart.. the type that are threaded oin are usually a bear to get off. on my DEV bus the clutch wasnt officially pressed on but it does have a pilot from the water pump that goes into the clutch maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to keep it running straight.. mine was a little stiff to get loose after I took the 4 bolts out. i could imagine if water got between those two it could rust things in place..

im Navistar so cummins may vary.

-Christopher

Booyah45828 · 06-27-2017, 09:20 AM

Every one that I've replaced on a bus was held on by 4 bolts. Those bolts also captured the pulley and held it to the fan hub bolted to the engine.

cadillackid · 06-27-2017, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Every one that I've replaced on a bus was held on by 4 bolts. Those bolts also captured the pulley and held it to the fan hub bolted to the engine.

the later Navistar serp belt stuff went to a single threaded hub... if its driven with the back of the belt, the clutch is threaded stanbdard.. lefty-loosey. , if its driven by the ribs of the belt its reverse left hand thread.

this is true of the T-444E, DT-466E, VT-365. I diont know about the Maxxforce engines as I dont have experience with them.. the threaded hub type you use a massive 2" wrench and a spanner tool to hold the pulley that lays against the frame.

the earlier Navistar V-belt engines.. for sure the DT-360, DT-466 mechanicals used the 4 bolts style.

-Christopher

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