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Old 05-03-2022, 01:12 PM   #21
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The delco 24si is similar in appearance to the densos used on dodge pickups. The difference is the dodge pickups have the harness connect differently then how the delco unit does. The delco has 1 connector that all the wiring passes through, whereas the denso unit has multiple studs that have nuts holding down ring connectors.

Delco is internally regulated. The denso, at least those used on the dodge trucks, isn't.

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Old 05-04-2022, 07:28 AM   #22
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good morning!

napa doesnt have the alt in their books. i went over to oreily and.... boom, Bluebird is in their make, model...computer list. they come up with a wilson 160a as the alt.

the bus has the delco plug, but its just one wire going to the plug. adapting to a post should be simple, if i know which post.

the wilson alt has posts. so, my choices are, get the napa with the delco plug, or the catalog replacement wilson, and cut of the connector and put the wire on a post. napa alt - $120, wilson alt - $320

hmmmm


ok, before i make a decision, probably need to test if fixing the ground wire fixed my problem.

so, here is today's stupid question. maybe just the first one.

if i re-assemble my alternator, do i have to put on the radiator and charge air, before starting the motor and testing it? can i start her up un assembled, for a few minutes to check the alt?
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:32 AM   #23
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If you start it without the radiator you will pump whatever coolant is left on the ground and the engine will heat up extremely fast and uneven. I only will start an engine for a few seconds without a radiator.. essentially just to see that it will start but not much longer.. definitely not a few minutes
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:33 AM   #24
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Crap hit send too quick..

Your volt gauge should jump up right away after starting. Or close to it.. witchin a few seconds (take your charger off if you are charging the bats before starting).. so you can see if the alternator works pretty quick.
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:51 AM   #25
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i'll put it back together then. the issue was intermittent, and if it starts out fine, i'd like to try all the circuits and try and trigger the problem again.

i'd rather not buy an alt if i don't need it.

what about the charge air? any issues running without it there?
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Old 05-04-2022, 09:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf View Post
i'll put it back together then. the issue was intermittent, and if it starts out fine, i'd like to try all the circuits and try and trigger the problem again.

i'd rather not buy an alt if i don't need it.

what about the charge air? any issues running without it there?

you can run the bus engine without the air compressor as long as the water pump spins.. (belt isnt shared and off).. if the output line is off the compressor it just will pump air into nowhere and wont hurt it
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Old 05-07-2022, 05:30 PM   #27
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dangit

nothing


i waited for the new alternator and put that on today. reaasembled the radiator, re-assembled the charge air cooler, put it all back together and.....

nothing.

the erratic went away. now its just not charging at all.

grrrrr
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Old 05-08-2022, 10:04 AM   #28
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So your still at the same problem. No charge. I still think you have a external regulator for that alt. Time to start taking pictures of all areas around the engine that has any type of wiring or boxes mounted. You might not know what a regulator looks like. There are members here that do know what to look for.

I looked around the wilson website. The info they have posted doesn't impress me.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:34 PM   #29
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i am, definitely, running in circles. ok, maybe walking....

ok, i went out and rechecked my work and looked for foreign appliances.

i put a new ground strap on, so i checked the continuity of that. i check the hot wire for voltage of the battery. both checked out fine and i believe the dash meter and the battery monitor.

i pulled the trigger wire connector off the back of the alt and it just kind of fell off. i cleaned up the motor before pulling off the old alt, so this connection is still dirty. i went and got some carb cleaner and sprayed down the delco connector and re-assembled everything.

this time, success. kind of.

its charging now, but it still looks sketchy intermittent.

the first 10 minutes of idle were fine and strong charging on the battery monitor. the temp gauge didnt move so i started reving the engine trying to warm it up.

then it got sketchy, jerky. to the plus side at first staying above 13v. but now after another 10 minutes of idle, rev, idle, rev......both meters will fluctuate from charging to dead.
it seems related to the vibrations of the motor.

im not sure where the trigger wire goes, i need to follow it. the wires go back to that first set of appliances i mentioned earlier, and then appear to go the the battery. the trigger wire is in the same bundle, so im not sure where it exits.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:45 PM   #30
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the alternator i put on is the same one i took off.
this one actually looks a bit higher quality than the one that went back to the store.

i see today that my trigger wire has had this delco connector crimped on, and does not look original. in my research, the original alt - looks like it was a 95a. this replacement is a 105a. the replacement recommended for the no longer available original is the wilson 160a.
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Old 05-08-2022, 01:24 PM   #31
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maybe its time to trace and replace that trigger wire?
if the crimps werent sealed then the wiring could be compromised in the jacket.
anything under the hood wire wise connectors i use the heat shrink connectors but dont shrink until i verify that the wiring works properly.
but either way doesnt really matter cause once crimped the connector is wasted unless you spend the time to try to open it again and spending the time with heat shrink isnt alot but it adds up if you are heading down the wrong road anyway.
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Old 05-08-2022, 02:18 PM   #32
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thank you both for your help, i do appreciate somone looking over my shoulder.


i'm gonna spend the afternoon under the bus findout where those wires go.

in my mind, there is a big short. big enough to cause both gauges to read 0.
its intermittent. seems triggered by vibration.

maybe if i have the key on and shake everything, it will reveal itself.
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Old 05-08-2022, 02:25 PM   #33
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you got a helper to watch the guages while you wiggle the wires?
could be faulty guages but i would question both at once.
so wiring would be my go to.
new alternator not reading? wiring or old guage just wore out.
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Old 05-08-2022, 07:20 PM   #34
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dis-assembling again, letting the rad drain now.

my issue looks like its that delco plug. when my finger is on the plug, the alternator seems to works fine. when my finger is off the delco plug, the alternator may not work at all.

the plug is at a bad position for working on it on the vehicle, so apart it goes. i'll clean out the connectors, and try and re-bend the contacts in there so they meet the tab in the alt.

i broke apart the bundle of wires there and chase them down a bit. the power relay from earlier in the thread looks to power the tstat circuit. not sure about the soleoid tucked back there too. the trigger wire may come out here but the wire coatings are so mucked up its hard to tell whats what.

the trigger wire seems to work when its contacting the alt prong.
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Old 05-09-2022, 10:42 AM   #35
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ok, got it dis-assembled and i have a question.

my delco plug is labeled - S, F, L, P

the S wire is the biggest, i thought it was the signal trigger wire.

my delco plug and the old alternator only have 1 wire in this harness, and its attached to the F terminal.

confused.
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Old 05-09-2022, 11:11 AM   #36
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Have you considered replacement of the connector? It is hard to tell from your attached image, but connectors can and do fail. That the alternator works with your finger on it and not without your finger on it seems to me that you found the problem. If the connector had some resistance at one of the sockets and got hot, the plastic may have partially melted, resulting in a bad connection for that socket. I have replaced relay connectors on one of my Ford f250s for that reason.
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Old 05-09-2022, 04:46 PM   #37
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all good all done!

cleaned and bent the electric connector, they make firm contact now.

everything re-assembled, radiator, charge air intercooler, bumper, and it runs great. the gauge needles and battery monitor are steady as a rock.

thanks everyone for your help!

gonna have to go camping now.


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Old 05-09-2022, 08:16 PM   #38
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Remember

Angry pixies are the single most time consuming repair. As in your case, finding it- many many days, actually making the repair once you find it, Well, I’ll be damned…… look at that.

Cheers!

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Old 05-10-2022, 08:32 AM   #39
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I would have replaced it too. At least I'd have replaced the terminal inside it. Poor connections lead to resistance which leads to fires. I can't afford to be having those.

Also, as you discovered, those alternators can come in a variety of amperages. Make sure your wiring is rated high enough for the amp capacity of the alternator. I've seen a lot of people upgrade to higher amp alternators, and leave the stock wiring, which can be disastrous. So, tread carefully and be sure it's all good before slamming the hood(or dog house).
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:10 AM   #40
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yea, i didn't do that.

now, i believe the first alternator was good and i bought an unneeded replacement.

i considered taking back this alternator and ordering the one from oreily's book for about double the price. i felt like i had the alt on, and at that point my new alt would have only been worth the core charge. so i passed on the big alternator. the big alternator, however, had a threaded post for the terminal instead of the flimsy delco connector that was, the little pixie problem.

if the problem rears its head in again, i'll reconsider.
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