ENG WRNG Light?

Chupa · 03-17-2021, 09:16 AM

I bought my 25' shorty (1997 Blue Bird TC/2000, Cummins 5.9 / AT-545) about a month ago. Drove her home to Louisiana from NE Indiana no problem... except top speed was 53 and going up steep grades I could have put the throttle lock on and got out and ran faster. I haven't driven it much yet, but took it about an hour away last weekend. Got there fine. When I got home that evening just as I was pulling up to my house the "ENG WRNG" light came on and the warning buzzer (like if the air pressure was low or the emergency door was open) started going off. I I quickly put it in park and shut it off. Went through my operators manual and my engine manual and can't find this light references in either. Since it's a 12v 5.9 and an AT-545, there isn't even an OBD I can plug into to read a code. I found ONE thread here about this issue but nothing was resolved. I'm stumped. Can anyone tell me what this sensor is reading and what my problem is? If it helps I moved it off the street and into my driveway hte next day and for the couple minutes it was running the light/buzzer didn't come back on. The boss (wife) is looking forward to our maiden camping trip to an RV park 5 hours away this weekend and if she gets stranded I'll be literally in the doghouse because I'll be living in the bus. THANKS!!

ABBus · 03-17-2021, 09:43 AM

From a quick Google search:

1

Insert the key in the ignition and turn the ignition on and off quickly in this sequence: on, off, on, off, on. Don't crank the truck. If you crank the engine by mistake, begin the sequence again as the process will be aborted.
2

Observe the "check engine" light. It will begin to make a series of flashes, indicating two-digit codes that represent the problem with your truck. The light will flash several times for the first digit, pause, then flash several more times to indicate the second digit.
3

The "check engine" light will flash Code 55 to signal the end of all codes. If your engine has stored no codes, the light will only flash Code 55.

Come back here with the code(s), and I'm sure someone will be able to tell what's wrong with your engine.

Booyah45828 · 03-17-2021, 10:20 AM

No codes, no ecm, no electronics. No amount of turning the key is going to get you anything.

The light and alarm is simply telling you that you have either low oil pressure, low coolant level, or a high coolant temp. It's a warning to catch your attention so you can shut the thing down now and avoid damage/figure out what's going on.

The switches that trigger it can and do fail, so as long as you have oil pressure, correct coolant level, and it's not overheating, you can likely ignore it.

Mateochris · 03-17-2021, 02:22 PM

Hello all I just bought a bus and I have a warm light on dash I’m new to this and am wondering what could it be it also caused my speedometer to stop working and the light was blinking and had oil water light pop up as well any help is appreciated

Chupa · 03-17-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

...The light and alarm is simply telling you that you have either low oil pressure, low coolant level, or a high coolant temp...

Ok, that.s super helpful. It has oil and the pressure gauge is reading good, teh coolant level is good, so that leaves teh coolant temp or temp sensor. I'll replace the sensor and see where we go from there. Thanks!

Brad_SwiftFur · 03-17-2021, 09:54 PM

Many of these have coolant level sensors and they are common failure items, and on many trucks and buses will cause the warning light to come on. You'll likely find this on the coolant overflow tank.

Simplicity · 03-17-2021, 10:36 PM

If you have no computer to tell you how your engine and tranny are doing, you might consider investing in some basic gauges to track key components that you don't already have.

I think an EGT is pretty much a requirement to know how hard your pushing (or not) your rig.

I got a MaxTow and was fortunate to have a friend who installed the same gauge a month earlier guide me on the install. You have to drill into the exhaust manifold, then tap it for the sensor to screw in. Hint: I have this great donut shaped magnet we stuck to the manifold to encircle where we were going to drill and tap. We couldn't believe how many metal shavings that magnet caught! We also drilled the hole in the bottom of the manifold so gravity would help keep shavings out of the manifold.

With the AT545, knowing what's happening with your fluid temp seems pretty critical since this tranny seems to have enough write ups and videos about problems.

If your AT545 has an electric modulator, like my MT643 does, you might consider adding a light at the dash to assure the modulator is receiving an electrical signal when there's a high load (climbing, accelerating) on the engine. If the modulator isn't working, it's going to be pretty easy to create tranny problems.

There's even gauges for things like coolant, if that's you're issue. Knowledge is power, and knowing what your engine and tranny are doing can bring a lot of piece of mind and save a lot of trouble and money.

Best of luck!

Booyah45828 · 03-18-2021, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chupa

Ok, that.s super helpful. It has oil and the pressure gauge is reading good, teh coolant level is good, so that leaves teh coolant temp or temp sensor. I'll replace the sensor and see where we go from there. Thanks!

I wouldn't replace stuff willy nilly. Use a test light and a process of elimination and see what has actually failed.... Turn the key on and unplug the switches one at a time and see which one causes it to stop.

Like brad said, the coolant level sensors are common, as are the oil pressure switches. So don't just throw things at it, TEST!

Booyah45828 · 03-18-2021, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simplicity

If you have no computer to tell you how your engine and tranny are doing, you might consider investing in some basic gauges to track key components that you don't already have.

I think an EGT is pretty much a requirement to know how hard your pushing (or not) your rig.

I got a MaxTow and was fortunate to have a friend who installed the same gauge a month earlier guide me on the install. You have to drill into the exhaust manifold, then tap it for the sensor to screw in. Hint: I have this great donut shaped magnet we stuck to the manifold to encircle where we were going to drill and tap. We couldn't believe how many metal shavings that magnet caught! We also drilled the hole in the bottom of the manifold so gravity would help keep shavings out of the manifold.

With the AT545, knowing what's happening with your fluid temp seems pretty critical since this tranny seems to have enough write ups and videos about problems.

If your AT545 has an electric modulator, like my MT643 does, you might consider adding a light at the dash to assure the modulator is receiving an electrical signal when there's a high load (climbing, accelerating) on the engine. If the modulator isn't working, it's going to be pretty easy to create tranny problems.

There's even gauges for things like coolant, if that's you're issue. Knowledge is power, and knowing what your engine and tranny are doing can bring a lot of piece of mind and save a lot of trouble and money.

Best of luck!

Good suggestions.

With a stock engine, a pyro isn't "necessary". It should be safe to run without one stock. But any upgrades or modifications would make the pyro needed, so it's not a bad gauge to have regardless of you've done.

A transmission temp gauge is also a good idea, especially with the at545. Any trans will benefit with longer life by keeping the fluid in the green zone, but the at545 is especially prone to cook the fluid due to the stock converters being loose and it not having a lockup torque converter.

Good tip on the modulator, but his is a mechanical engine, and the electric modulators would only be found on an electrical engine. So his should have a cable or air modulator. But it's still imperative to make sure it's properly adjusted and functioning correctly. Being out will ruin things in a hurry.

magnakansas · 03-18-2021, 03:09 PM

I see this often. Sometimes, replacing a part is faster than a diagnoses. I call this " throwing parts at a problem". This approach often does not fix the problem.

Pressure gage for the intake, pressure gage for the exhaust, temperature gage for the exhaust - before the turbocharger, fuel pressure gage for fuel into the the injection pump.

engine water temp, oil pressure. automatic transmission fluid temperature for oil in the pan.

New parts can be faulty.

use a second source to check temps and pressures. I chose to add all the gages above so that I can "see" changes, hopefully before, there is a problem.

hand held infrared thermometer is usefull in places all over the bus. including engine, brakes, wheel bearings.

thermal imaging cameras can be useful in finding hot spots in wire problems too. Prices have become affordable for these little wonders.

That warning light is like the rattle on a rattle snake, telling you it is about strike.

william

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