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Old 07-05-2017, 09:22 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,848
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the "intercooler blades" are actually called electric shutters.. they are designed for busses being used in cold weather to help them stay warm.. those shutters open usually at 185-190 or so.. depending on where the sensor is.. there should be 2 sensors, one for the airt shutters and one for the fan. the one for the shutters is a normally closed.. meaning when its cold the switch closes and engages the shutters, they are notorious for operating in hot weather... my DEV bus has those shutters.. and I installed an air temp sensor that if its above 50 degrees outside rthose things never operate.. you dont need them except in really cold weather.

the temp for the fan is usually in that 205-210 degree range to turn on.. the sensor can be anywhere.. a switch isa fine except until you forget to turn it on.. its not good on the engine to widely swing its temperatures... or wait till the alarm goes off to tell you to turn it on... run the fan all the time and its just very noisy and wastes fuel...

its typically a temperature switch as i believe your engine is Fully mechanical with no computer? if so just find an adjustable switch with the same threads as the one in the bus and you'll be set... also a good idea to make sure the fan circuit has power.. (I dont know how youre mechanic ran the switch.. if it was a powered circuit or he used existing power at the clutch and just grounded the second wire...

typically a fan clutch circuit will have a hot lead all the time on an ignition circuit and then the switch grounds through the clutch causing engagement.. not sure how yours is.

-Christopher

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Old 07-05-2017, 09:51 PM   #22
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Maryland
Posts: 95
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5,9 12V
Rated Cap: 24 seats, 3 wheelchairs
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the "intercooler blades" are actually called electric shutters.. they are designed for busses being used in cold weather to help them stay warm.. those shutters open usually at 185-190 or so.. depending on where the sensor is.. there should be 2 sensors, one for the airt shutters and one for the fan. the one for the shutters is a normally closed.. meaning when its cold the switch closes and engages the shutters, they are notorious for operating in hot weather... my DEV bus has those shutters.. and I installed an air temp sensor that if its above 50 degrees outside rthose things never operate.. you dont need them except in really cold weather.

the temp for the fan is usually in that 205-210 degree range to turn on.. the sensor can be anywhere.. a switch isa fine except until you forget to turn it on.. its not good on the engine to widely swing its temperatures... or wait till the alarm goes off to tell you to turn it on... run the fan all the time and its just very noisy and wastes fuel...

its typically a temperature switch as i believe your engine is Fully mechanical with no computer? if so just find an adjustable switch with the same threads as the one in the bus and you'll be set... also a good idea to make sure the fan circuit has power.. (I dont know how youre mechanic ran the switch.. if it was a powered circuit or he used existing power at the clutch and just grounded the second wire...

typically a fan clutch circuit will have a hot lead all the time on an ignition circuit and then the switch grounds through the clutch causing engagement.. not sure how yours is.

-Christopher


You are correct about the setup - all mechanical and an electromagnetic switch. I can see the two sensors and it appears clear which is for my dash gauge and which activates the clutch.

I stole an unused Warning Light switch on my control panel and ran a ground to the non-hot side of the clutch harness. So I pull the switch to throw a ground, which activates the clutch. When I get a replacement temp sensor it will also activate the clutch as designed.


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Old 07-05-2017, 10:22 PM   #23
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Maryland
Posts: 95
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5,9 12V
Rated Cap: 24 seats, 3 wheelchairs
I forgot I took these pics. Btw I had zero issues getting things removed. All the bolts were accessible and turned nicely after some gentle encouragement. Other than the temp sensor and incorrect clutch it couldn't have gone better.






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Old 07-06-2017, 06:44 AM   #24
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,848
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
did you make a new strap for that clutch to hold the wires steady or is yours different and didnt require it?

good deal that you arent leaving it permanently manual. I also installed a manual switch on mine, i always turn the fan on if im idling in the summer at all. im running a dakota digital PAC-2750 fan controller so I could control the on and off temperatures of the fan to best meet my engine thermostat and driving conditions..

Christopher
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:36 AM   #25
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Maryland
Posts: 95
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5,9 12V
Rated Cap: 24 seats, 3 wheelchairs
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
did you make a new strap for that clutch to hold the wires steady or is yours different and didnt require it?

good deal that you arent leaving it permanently manual. I also installed a manual switch on mine, i always turn the fan on if im idling in the summer at all. im running a dakota digital PAC-2750 fan controller so I could control the on and off temperatures of the fan to best meet my engine thermostat and driving conditions..

Christopher
Didn't require it. We were able to easily get the cables out of the way. Hopefully it will hold.

I got my Commercial for Personal Use policy TODAY through State Farm. Talk about last minute! I think we're going to do this trip after all.
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