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Old 04-30-2016, 02:07 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Here is a much clearer verbal pic of my troubleshoot

I paid someone to install an isolator in my bus? Cause I have a breathing machine I need to use every night in order to survive. Now my bus is broke down homeboy got paid and skidaddled to oregon. So far ive figured out that I have a 140 amp altenator and he installed a 95 amp maximum isolator . the inside battery bank consists of 4 6v golfcart batteries my starting battery is.a.12 v d cell big ass monster. I cant tell if the auxiliary batteries are.charging because they have only had cellphones charged on them , the starting battery on the other hand after being drained when I drove for 15 minutes from having my lights on took a charge and stayed charged until I drove the bus again a week later the alternator doesn't smell burned up at the volt meter said it's putting out 11.4 amps which is not enough or maybe thats volts yes volts . Soooo my question is does anyone think I have damaged my alternator but having this too small of an isolator hooked up although there is a breaker between the battery and the isolator

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Old 04-30-2016, 02:19 PM   #2
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You're probably going to have to wait for the 5 o-clock rush. I did hear a discussion that was on basically the same subject, but electricity makes my eyes glaze over so... I'd say three to five hours and you'll have multiple answers.

Good thinking though. I'm guessing you're right, but I need to hear it several times and maybe it'll stick. Good luck.
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:54 PM   #3
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it all depends on howthe isloator was wired into the bus.. but generally the volt-meter voltage sense is simply the voltage at the dashboard cluster itself.. so the batteries that your dashboard cluster are connected are not getting charged...

the isolator should be set up so that both sets of batteries charge when the bus is running.. and your aux battery and its loads provide power when the bus is off... (im assuming you have a special place to plug your beathing machine in so that it only runs from the aux batteries??

you can measure the voltage at the back of your alternator with a volt meter when your bus is running and see if the alternator is putting out power or not...

-Christopher
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Old 04-30-2016, 05:31 PM   #4
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I did that she is only putting out 11.4 volts

I just want to go back to the way it was for now so do I just unhook the black wire going from the altenator to the isolater?
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Old 04-30-2016, 05:33 PM   #5
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You have a 140 MAX altenator. It will never need to put out that much. You have a 95 amp MAX isolator. You will never get anywhere near 95 amps.
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:11 PM   #6
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o.k. so oriellys confirmed 8 d battery is bunk

so I bought a brandy new one and im praying this is the end of this mini dilemma _ everyone
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Old 05-01-2016, 05:29 PM   #7
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I have changed out faulty isolators numerous times. Instead of putting isolators back in, I use a constant duty solenoid.
I wire the alternator feed directly to the start batteries(like original) and use the constant duty solenoid to feed to the house batteries. Use ignition switch power to trigger the solenoid, that way it only connects the house batteries when the engine is running.
When engine is off, the house batteries are completely on their own.
Been doing them this way for 30 years, no come backs
Constant duty solenoids are way cheaper and more reliable.
You can also get them almost anywhere.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakn View Post
I have changed out faulty isolators numerous times. Instead of putting isolators back in, I use a constant duty solenoid.
I wire the alternator feed directly to the start batteries(like original) and use the constant duty solenoid to feed to the house batteries. Use ignition switch power to trigger the solenoid, that way it only connects the house batteries when the engine is running.
When engine is off, the house batteries are completely on their own.
Been doing them this way for 30 years, no come backs
Constant duty solenoids are way cheaper and more reliable.
You can also get them almost anywhere.
I like this idea.. where do you find heavy enough constant duty solenoids? I have a 200 AMP alternator on my bus...

-Christopher
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I like this idea.. where do you find heavy enough constant duty solenoids? I have a 200 AMP alternator on my bus...

-Christopher
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:33 PM   #10
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You can buy them at any auto store. I like to wire them between the start battery and the house battery and have an override switch to trigger the solenoid.
That way if you leave your lights on or some how draw down the start battery, you can override the solenoid and use your house batteries to jump start your starter batteries.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:37 PM   #11
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Here is a picture

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/member...cture13041.gif
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:38 PM   #12
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Incidentally... if you've ever noticed a big CLICK when you turn the ignition key to the run position, that's the sound of a constant duty solenoid buried in the wiring box to the left of the driver seat. It looks like a mini soda can with several heavy and several smaller wires attached to it. A key switch beefy enough to carry all the power used by lights, body heaters, etc on the bus would be impractical so instead they have the key switch operate a solenoid located in the wiring bay.

By the way, "constant duty" is important. A solenoid that isn't marked for constant duty will likely break (its electromagnet coil will burn out) if left powered for long periods. The constant duty types are often built so that after pulling in they automatically reduce the power through the electromagnet to help it run cooler.
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