Need help getting u joints out

[Dead pirate]

36 foot carpenter. 1993 bad front u joints. Out but can't drop it.
Do i have to drop the yoke too

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[Clayton]

Post photos pls

[Dead pirate]

I got the broken u joints out as you can see. The other picture is of the first yoke. There are several. Can i get the new u joints inn around it or....

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[Clayton]

You need to pull the drive shafts from the vehicle.

[Dead pirate]

All of them?

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[Clayton]

That would be easiest in my opinion.

[Dead pirate]

Should be a simple job, but it never works out like that. I'll let you know. Thanks

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[Clayton]

I don't know what kind od brakes it has..... Just in case, block your wheels so it doesn't roll.

[Dead pirate]

Air brakes. I'm good

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[Rameses]

You said the old u-joint was broken? Broken how?

If the old one was in one piece, and came out... then you should be able to get the new one in without pulling the shaft.

If that isn't possible, then try removing two caps from the next u-joint back and see if that gives you enough freedom of movement to get the front one in.

[cadillackid]

the new ones always go in easier because you can place the '+' in and then the caps go in from the outside.
woth the shafts inside the truck you lose the ability to rotate around to tap each cap into place.. if you have room to get the caps in and place the snap rings then go for it.. I just always ended up having to get the shafts on the ground.. usually for remove .. but it makes installation easy too.

it also lets you feel how your center carrier bearings spin... if the center bearing is loose (the rubber surround). or is intermittently binding it can cause the U-joints ahead of it to wear quicker..

-Christopher

[Dead pirate]

Originally Posted by Rameses

You said the old u-joint was broken? Broken how?

If the old one was in one piece, and came out... then you should be able to get the new one in without pulling the shaft.

If that isn't possible, then try removing two caps from the next u-joint back and see if that gives you enough freedom of movement to get the front one in.

It was so wore on one of the points it broke. Huge joints too. I was able to get the new one in with out dropping the whole drive shaft.

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[cadillackid]

be sure to check the other ones... change them now if they are lose or have binding spots in theit rotation
-Christopher

[Dead pirate]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

be sure to check the other ones... change them now if they are lose or have binding spots in theit rotation
-Christopher

Right. Thanks

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[Dead pirate]

This thing is starting to new more work, but I've almost replaced all major parts

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[cowlitzcoach]

If you end up dropping any or all of your driveshafts, double and triple check you get all of the shafts sequenced properly. If they are out of phase the bus will not stop vibrating no matter what you do. It will also wipe out a new set of u-joints within a few miles.

[Dead pirate]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

If you end up dropping any or all of your driveshafts, double and triple check you get all of the shafts sequenced properly. If they are out of phase the bus will not stop vibrating no matter what you do. It will also wipe out a new set of u-joints within a few miles.

Someone else suggested that they could also get out of balance by not putting them back in the same spline. Out of rotation so to speak.

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[Rameses]

Originally Posted by Dead pirate

Someone else suggested that they could also get out of balance by not putting them back in the same spline. Out of rotation so to speak.

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It isn't actually a balance issue. Phasing has to do with the effects u-joints have on rotational speed.

This video does a great job of demonstrating the importance of driveline angles and phasing.

https://youtu.be/gmV4qwLfOMY

[Dead pirate]

Nice. Thanks. I've made sure to keep it in line. this forum makes working on this beast so much easier.

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[cadillackid]

U-joint phasing is definitely real.. when I took mine out I painted the spline on one and the spot on the other and also took pictures and note of where they were so I could put them back in correctly... when you only have a single driveshaft its easy as the yare phased permanently one end tothe other.. but with multiple driveshafts you make to make sure you handle it when going from the splined shaft to any others..

if you want to understand rotational speed.. take a U-joint out of your socket set and put an extension on each end of it and spin it between your fingers as you bend the U-joint.. you will notice at certain points in the rotation (esp as the joint is more bent) that the shaft being turned changes its speed.. even though you are spinning it at the same speed.. you'll also notice that the one you are turning with gets harder and easier to turn..

when you set up your driveshafts you want it so when the input (the shaft doing the turning) is turning fastest, that you inoput into a U-joint at the rotational point where it turns the easiest...

hopefully I made some sense..
-Christopher