New to Skoolie Bus - How To

[eliyahu]

I know that I'm gonna be a royal pain in the behind for awhile until I can get a handle on this project, so please know that you all are my only hope / resource and that your efforts are greatly appreciated/

I think what I really need is a good Service Manual, something with wiring schematics etc.

Well I finally got my Skoolie home and had a chance to look her over better and get the battery charged which brings me to where I am now, which is a no crank condition.

2002 Freightliner FS65 Thomas with 5.9 Cummins 24 Valve and Allison 2000 Series Transmission.

I am not sure how to start this rig, but what I have seen just put it in Neutral and turn the key.
I get the buzzer (need to know how to make it quieter or turn it off annoying) the timmer warm up grid turns off and a very loud fan remains running. I turn the key to start position and nothing at all not even a click. Battery is at 12+ Volts.

Both Panels on the Driver's left have the switch panels removed for some reason...

A used DC Power Contactor (looks like a Starter Solenoid found on the inner fender of older Fotd Trucks) was found on the floor of the Bus and a new one was found in a plastic bag in a plastic waste bin (used to store spare papers and parts, screws etc.) I have looked all over and can't find where such a part belongs. Nothing on the main lead to the Starter.



Could it be that this Solenoid was intented to bypass some safety features? Don't know...

[eliyahu]

So the next job on my agenda is to change fluids and filters. We have the local Farm CO-OP, Walmart, Orschlins, Atwoods, Tractor Supply and a couple Semi Truck parts suppliers.

I need a really good Fuel Filter 2-3 Microns with this VP44 Fuel Injection Pump
Air Cleaner was not inspected as yet.
I have posted images of what is on there now for reference.

Not sure what kind of oil filter this is:


This is an Alliance fuel filter:

[Rusty]

Sounds like avery nice bus. Can't wait to see what you make of it.

Operator manual

Chassis manual

[eliyahu]

Your the greatest Rusty, thanks a gazillion

[eliyahu]

So my first delima is how to get this Bus to start or at least crank, I get nothing when I turn the key. It there a hidden safety that I might not be making? I had it in Neutral, the seat belt doesn't look like it is wired into any kind of lockout device. Do I have to have the cable lever E-Brake on? Or do I have to have my foot on the Brake?

!!! How do I kill that annoying buzzer?

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by eliyahu

So my first delima is how to get this Bus to start or at least crank, I get nothing when I turn the key. It there a hidden safety that I might not be making? I had it in Neutral, the seat belt doesn't look like it is wired into any kind of lockout device. Do I have to have the cable lever E-Brake on? Or do I have to have my foot on the Brake?

!!! How do I kill that annoying buzzer?

Check all doors and hatches, there are safety mechanisms. Some buses have a button in the back you need to push to encourage drivers to check for sleeping munchkins. Make sure gearshift is in park (neutral) wiggle.

[family wagon]

Buzzer could be a low air pressure alarm. No-crank condition could be a result of door safety interlocks -- many require a special song and dance involving opening or closing the emergency exit doors.

[PNW_Steve]

There are likely to be safety interlock switches on the emergency exits and possibly on the roof hatches and service door. These will keep the bus from starting if they are not secured or if they fail.

The buzzer may indicate that it thinks that one of the emergency exits is open or it may be your low air warning.

[eliyahu]

Thanks Gentlemen for all the help, the buzzer quit after I got it started.

I had to jump around the solenoid which was on the large gauge wire to the starter solenoid/ Primary and secondary? I have no idea...

But the main thing is that I got it running enough to do a little diagnosis and found that it does smoke (white / raw fuel) bad even at an idle. Lots of pressure puffing from the oil fill cap on the valve-cover and some from the front timing cover Blowby tube, but not quite as bad. It is a given that ring or piston damage does exist. So a pressure test will be done first to find which hole is bad (confirm the #2 as the seller's shop mechs told me). Then do a flow test to see where it is leaking through which should be piston and rings, buy might have some valve issues or injector leaks as well.

Gotta juggle a few projects to make room in the shop and then I will get after it

Thanks a bunch Guys

[eliyahu]

As far as the safety lock, that might be the reason I had no power to the hot side of the off starter solenoid. I doubt that this one is bad because I get not juice to it... this would be a symptom and not the source of the problem.

[eliyahu]

Oh and by the way the oil pressure was really good up around 70 psig, no sign of overheating for the short time I had it running. No clunks, knocks, bangs or bumps. Ran pretty smooth for having a dead hole. Cranked a little long before starting...

I even tried the transmission after I re-installed the driveshaft and it moves both forward and back no problem