Trans mount

[2kool4skool]

Our bus has developed a slight single knock as it shifts from 1 to 2 or sometimes 2 to 3.

5.9C w/at545. 209000 miles.

The passenger's side trans mount rubber is squished flat and at full launch the metal touches metal and we get the knock. The driver's side is nice and puffy still.

Changing the rubber requires a bolt to be R & R and while out the rubber to be replaced. The engine/trans must be jacked up a couple inches.

I've got the part coming and will tackle this soon. BB pn 01935378.

Has anyone here done this procedure? Any tips?

[cadillackid]

ive not had to do it with the bus.. im assuming you are talking about the 2 bolt mlounts on the trans right behindthe bell.. on the side? or is this mounted on the ears at the back of the trans?


ive supported the full weight of the 545 and the 643 by its pan.. i used a piece of 3/4 plywood (not OSB).. a 2x12 would work too... jack it from its pan just enough to take the tension off that mount.. I didnt think it had to go up inches to get the mount off.. although im not familiar with how it mounts on a FE bus..

-Christopher

[2kool4skool]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

ive not had to do it with the bus.. im assuming you are talking about the 2 bolt mlounts on the trans right behindthe bell.. on the side? >CORRECT.

ive supported the full weight of the 545 and the 643 by its pan.. i used a piece of 3/4 plywood (not OSB).. a 2x12 would work too... jack it from its pan just enough to take the tension off that mount.. I didnt think it had to go up inches to get the mount off.. although im not familiar with how it mounts on a FE bus..
>JUST ENOUGH TO GET THE RUBBER OUT/IN.
-Christopher

Thank you!!!!!!

[Johnny Mullet]

I agree. Jack it up and replace.

[2kool4skool]

Got the part. Assembling the right combo of tools to do the job.

[2kool4skool]

Raised the engine as high as it would go and still not enough. There is a bolt on top of the bell that holds a metal flat piece that must hold a line or ? ThAt is hitting the bus floor. The mount is about 4 inches overall. I guess I need to remove the bolt and gain the thickness of the bolt head.

[Johnny Mullet]

Hopefully you get it figured out! Keep us posted.

[2kool4skool]

Had to walk away for a while. My hands got so crampy and I still couldn't get the rubber out. I did not remove the mentioned bolt. The rubber is actually about 3 in. I buttoned everything back up after I made sure the piece was rotated a half turn to get non squished rubber under the trans mount.
Now the engine sits level and the idle is smooth, shifts are quiet so it did help until the rubber gets squished again.

Long trip in 3 weeks.

[2kool4skool]

Quite some time ago I mentioned a clunk when turning right after slowing from speed. Didn't do it all the time. Now it doesn't do it at all (fingers xd) since I rotated the motor mount! Ah HA!! Perhaps that was the source of the noise!

2 weeks 'til 1500 mile trip.

[Booyah45828]

Originally Posted by 2kool4skool

Quite some time ago I mentioned a clunk when turning right after slowing from speed. Didn't do it all the time. Now it doesn't do it at all (fingers xd) since I rotated the motor mount! Ah HA!! Perhaps that was the source of the noise!

2 weeks 'til 1500 mile trip.

Make sure the spring bushings are in good shape. Those are the typical clunk culprit while turning if the tie rod ends and drag link are good.

[2kool4skool]

Still no clunk. Engine sitting level. Leaving in one week for 2 week vaca.

[Rivetboy]

Originally Posted by 2kool4skool

Still no clunk. Engine sitting level. Leaving in one week for 2 week vaca.

hi d, m and s been awhile.. IMHO You stated that the bus is at 209 k those MOUNTS ARE TOAST. Jack the front of the engine and watch how much the bushing deforms as you take the weight of the motor off of it. If the clunk went away whan you rotated the rear bushing you are just delaying the inevitible.That mount is worn out. And if that one is shot All 3 mounts should be replaced at the same time as all of them are the same age and worn out ness level, even if it is not readily apparent. The front mount yoke can be removed completely with the engine on a jack and taken to a machine shop and have a new mount pressed in. If you have AC the belts will also have to come off also but that is readily apparent The two rear engine /transmision donuts are easy to replace if you unbolt and remove the passenger side engine mount while supporting the engine/trans. I have actually physically done this, sourced the parts and this is firsthand personal eaxperience and not the experience of someone with a recent liberal arts degree and that has never physically performed the service.

[2kool4skool]

Fully aware this is temp. Enjoying the smooth for now.....