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11-04-2020, 01:15 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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2003 bluebird all american headlights
Does anyone have the part number for the headlights and assembly for the headlights? Or better yet, know an LED replacement for them? I've been digging around and all I've been able to find is general wire diagrams for my lights.
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11-04-2020, 04:06 PM
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#2
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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You should have sealed beams. I couldn't look up a Blue Bird bus on most sites, but an H4656 low beam, H4651 high beam should fit. Your low beams may or may not stay lit on high beam, but these should fit. Don't use LED upgrades unless they are two-sided bulbs and DOT approved. Any other LED upgrades will blind others with no improvement.
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11-04-2020, 04:18 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Thanks for the pointers. I'm wanting to go LED because I've got halogen in them and i can hardly see anything at night. With the brights on (i believe the low are on at the same time) it's about as bright as a normal car without their brights.
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11-04-2020, 04:22 PM
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#4
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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That could be bad wiring or poor adjustment, but replacement can't hurt. I am assuming yours has four sealed beams, not two as some do. All the images of All-American buses I see have four, which should be this size. Also, make sure they are not upside-down (it is possible and does make a difference).
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11-04-2020, 04:23 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Ignore the rushed paint job, we're touching that up later, but yes.
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11-04-2020, 04:26 PM
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#6
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Yup, those are the size I'm talking about. The low beams may come in two part numbers, as some have all four on high beam, others don't. The ones I mentioned are for four-high. Posted more info before you posted the pic, check it out.
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11-04-2020, 05:50 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 693
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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There are some really good LED replacements for the old sealed beam lights. Do your research, and expect to pay in the neighborhood of $500 for all 4. That is pretty steep, but you will be forever grateful, and so will oncoming traffic!
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11-05-2020, 06:07 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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11-05-2020, 06:23 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,736
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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everyone always piulls those up on amazon.. I had these type lights they do little to help you see and the SPEW light everywhere blinding other drivers.. I threw mine in the trash after 6 months.. im using a much better set now..
these are what im using now.. they are DOT approved and have an actual adjustable beam pattern.. meaning that your headlight adjuster screws will affect the pattern enough you can get them aimed proper;y to see good and not blind others..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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11-05-2020, 06:28 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
everyone always piulls those up on amazon.. I had these type lights they do little to help you see and the SPEW light everywhere blinding other drivers.. I threw mine in the trash after 6 months.. im using a much better set now..
these are what im using now.. they are DOT approved and have an actual adjustable beam pattern.. meaning that your headlight adjuster screws will affect the pattern enough you can get them aimed proper;y to see good and not blind others..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Coming to my rescue, thanks for the product link!
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11-05-2020, 07:10 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,736
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I just relized yours may be 4x6 and mine were 5x7? you have 4 headlights.. I have only 2.. you may need to look for a similar set for 4x6..
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11-05-2020, 07:14 PM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Just measured. 4"x6.5". I'm guessing round that up to 7?
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11-05-2020, 09:09 PM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,456
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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There are basically two square headlight sizes. If you have 2 headlights they are 5x7. The 5x7s are both high and low beam. There are two different 4x6 types. One is just high beam, the other is both high and low. Usually the two beam bulb is the outer pair. When on low just two are lit, on high all four are on. If sealed beams there is a 1 or 2 cast into the glass on front. Single beams have 2 prongs on the back dual have 3.
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11-05-2020, 09:16 PM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Our outer two are always on and the center two come on with the brights. From general skimming i may need to change the wiring to accommodate some brand of headlight, would it be worth it to do that so all four are on and ask four brighten with the brights?
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11-05-2020, 09:20 PM
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#15
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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What you are talking about is a four high mod, doable with a couple hours work and a simple fuel pump relay. I have a schematic for such a relay sitting around somewhere, basically you trigger off of your high beam output and use the relay to feed fused battery voltage to the low beams to keep them on with the high beams, however, I'm pretty sure that most older for headlight systems like this are already wired in this fashion. If your bus is not already set up this way and you would like to do it, I can certainly post the schematic I have. Your 6.5 headlights probably round down to 6" with the outer ring coverage, Not to mention there is surface area of the housing that does not actually transmit light.
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11-05-2020, 09:25 PM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
What you are talking about is a four high mod, doable with a couple hours work and a simple fuel pump relay. I have a schematic for such a relay sitting around somewhere, basically you trigger off of your high beam output and use the relay to feed fused battery voltage to the low beams to keep them on with the high beams, however, I'm pretty sure that most older for headlight systems like this are already wired in this fashion. If your bus is not already set up this way and you would like to do it, I can certainly post the schematic I have. Your 6.5 headlights probably round down to 6" with the outer ring coverage, Not to mention there is surface area of the housing that does not actually transmit light.
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If i get in there and find it's not like that i just might take you up on that.
I've also thought about setting up a relay tied to the ignition so when the bus is on the headlights are on, i don't see any reason not to run it like this if I'm switching over to LED. I may set the running lights up like that too. Have everything still on a switch but if the engine is running the lights are on.
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11-05-2020, 09:28 PM
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#17
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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That may be as simple as splicing your key switch RUN output wire to the trigger wire for your low beam relay, if the bus has separate relays for high and low. I wonder if anyone here has a wiring schematic for the 2 systems for this bus?
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11-05-2020, 09:34 PM
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#18
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Found it (schematic for the relay I speak of). Older ones have thicker spade terminals on them for better conductivity, the new ones have little bitty pins that break easily. Fuel pump relay for a 1992 Chevy Cavalier is the style I am talking about, try to get one with a diode in it, it will make it more consistent voltage without backfeeding. Also be sure to fuse the 12V feed. Most auto parts stores sell the matching block connectors for this style relay that make wiring much easier.
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11-05-2020, 10:06 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3
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Thanks for all the help! I'll start digging into it all tomorrow and see what i can find. Maybe you're the person i should be talking to about my other plan. Our pneumatic doors have an electric switch i want to write a relay to or tie into the existing relay so i can trigger them from outside with a key pad. Also debating a key fob while I'm at it but that's just because I'd already have the fob to remote trigger our coolant heater so i don't need to run out to the bus and rock it on when it's extra cold out.
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11-05-2020, 10:41 PM
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#20
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Tricky, complex (or not), but doable, methinks. I'll see what I can figure out. Does the door open with the relay closed or open?
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