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Old 04-13-2019, 08:51 PM   #1
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Abs light on

i have a 2007 international dt 466 ce300 school bus with air brakes. Anyone know of any notorious problems i should check that could shut off an abs light

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Old 04-14-2019, 09:44 AM   #2
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Sp6saz,

If you have disconnected your battery or it has died recently then the ABS module needs to be re-set. On my Thomas 2002 that is done by driving the bus and at approxamatly 3 MPH the light will go off and all codes will be normal. If that does not work then there is probably an ABS blink code switch that you can retrieve the fault for.

Dan
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:57 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ShagNasty View Post
Sp6saz,

If you have disconnected your battery or it has died recently then the ABS module needs to be re-set. On my Thomas 2002 that is done by driving the bus and at approxamatly 3 MPH the light will go off and all codes will be normal. If that does not work then there is probably an ABS blink code switch that you can retrieve the fault for.

Dan
I appear to have this ABS light problem now. I recently had a big section of floor removed above the rear axle, and welding was done on a new frame built in this spot. After reconnecting the battery and starting up, the ABS light stayed on (it never has before) and then never went off (I drove over 35 mph most of the way for two miles).

Is this something that's OK to drive for now? For me to get anything fixed by a mechanic, I have to drive the bus to the shop.

Edit: erp, just noticed you're talking about a Thomas. I'll see if I can find how to reset it for an International.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:00 AM   #4
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I need to inspect this area pretty thoroughly if the light stays on. The wires for it may have been damaged by the demo or something like that.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:07 AM   #5
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I need to inspect this area pretty thoroughly if the light stays on. The wires for it may have been damaged by the demo or something like that.
I would agree with you, this is the first thing you should do. Could be as easy as a broken wire or loose connector.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:34 AM   #6
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I found alot of info from bendix on my international site brake system. Like which system i have how to retrieve codes with the blink code switch and the abs light blinking how to reset the system with the blink code switch how to shut the abs light off with the blink code switch. Click the switch 3 times it shuts off the light. If you fixed all the codes the light will stay off if not once you go over 3 miles an hour the light comes back on. With the bendix info i determined i need to adjust or replace the rear passenger wheel sensor.
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:54 AM   #7
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Confirm with the operators manual but usually:
Yes, you can drive with the ABS light on -- it means the ABS function is not working -- BUT, you should still have normally working hydraulic brakes, but w/out the ABS feature...

If you also have a (red) brake light warning light staying on, this normally indicates a hydraulic pressure problem and you should not drive the vehicle until fixed.
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Old 10-21-2019, 02:39 PM   #8
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It's likely that the ABS system has its own independent controller box hidden somewhere on the bus. On Blue Birds I've seen the Bendix ABS box mounted forward of the rear axle. Seems like a while back somebody posted a photo showing the ABS controller mounted in their engine bay. In both mine and theirs the LEDs are visible as the box is mounted; there weren't any covers that had to be removed to expose it.



In any case, if you can locate the ABS controller box, it may have a set of LEDs that light to indicate normal or fault, and in case of fault something more specific as to what's faulty. Turn the ignition key to the run position and crawl around looking for unfamiliar LEDs.
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Old 10-21-2019, 05:14 PM   #9
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Knowing what the code is would be most helpful but without pulling codes, you can still do the following. Visually check your ABS speed sensors, especially for broken wires. If the sensors are not bolted down, hold a thick flat-bladed screwdriver against the back of the sensor and give it a few gentle taps with a hammer. They can back away from the tone ring over time and just need to be pushed back in. Check your tone rings for rust, if the rust is bad enough the sensor will not generate a good signal. If the sensors have two wires you can check the resistance of the sensors and compare them against each other, replace the outlier. Those are the most common issues I've run into, air or hydraulic.
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Old 10-21-2019, 05:47 PM   #10
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The abs modules have a set of lights on them that will light to tell you what the issue is. The older IC and Bluebird buses usually have them mounted back by the rear axle inside of the driver side frame rail and on the newer IC buses they are usually up by the trans computer alongside the transmission on the driver side which makes the lights a little harder to see. My experience has been mostly bad connections where the wheel sensor plugs into the harness and I usually can take the connector apart and clean the insides with electrical contact cleaner and get them to work. If they keep coming back with the same problem I will cut the connectors off and solder and shrink wrap the wires and that fixes them permanently. I also have a bendix tester that plugs into the diagnostic port and it functions the same way as the lights on the module. If it shows a wheel sensor the first thing to do is pull the connector apart and check the ohms on the wheel sensor, should read about 1500. After you have diagnosed and repaired the issue the module and or the tester can be reset with a magnet to see if the light stays off. To reset the module get a small magnet and touch it to the module just past the last light and it will light up all the lights and when you take it off the module will be reset. With the tester touch the magnet to the end of it and all lights will be turned on then remove magnet to complete the reset. If there is a wiring issue the individual light will come right back on. If the issue is something else the light will stay off until the vehicle is driven a few mph then the light will come back on. On our 16 buses I have changed 2 or 3 wheel speed sensors over the past 14 years. Haven't changed any other components out. most of my issues have been bad connections where the speed sensor plugs into the harness. Hope this helps you out.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:54 PM   #11
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I learned something new today. Thanks, 84chevyguyid! Over a year ago I found and repaired a spot in the wire for one of my wheel speed sensors where the wheel had worn through the insulation and both conductors. I hoped that the fault on the ABS ECU would clear automatically when the signal was restored. It has been driven very little since then, but the trouble lamp remained on. Tonight I waved a magnet over that spot on the ABS module (it has the word RESET molded into the plastic, by the way). All the LEDs lit for a moment, then all went dark except the power LED. The trouble lamp on the dash is dark now too. Can't wait to take it out for a drive and see whether the trouble lights stay off!
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Old 10-22-2019, 03:41 AM   #12
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Thanks all for the information posted here.


Now all I have to do is FIND the ABS control unit
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Old 10-22-2019, 07:02 AM   #13
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on the 2003 model it will have a J1939 data bus and your ABS module will be active on that data bus.. you can scan the ABS module with the IH servicemaxx software for codes..

-Christopher
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Old 10-22-2019, 08:45 AM   #14
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Thanks all for the information posted here.


Now all I have to do is FIND the ABS control unit
On mine, all the lines come together at a control box on the left hand chassis rail about 1/3 of the way between the axles.

Of course mine is hydraulic so may have no relevance to your setup...
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Old 10-23-2019, 04:05 AM   #15
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On mine, all the lines come together at a control box on the left hand chassis rail about 1/3 of the way between the axles.

Of course mine is hydraulic so may have no relevance to your setup...

I do have air brakes. I'll check around when I am under there changing my differential oil in the next few days.
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Old 02-13-2020, 05:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 84chevyguyid View Post
The abs modules have a set of lights on them that will light to tell you what the issue is. The older IC and Bluebird buses usually have them mounted back by the rear axle inside of the driver side frame rail and on the newer IC buses they are usually up by the trans computer alongside the transmission on the driver side which makes the lights a little harder to see. My experience has been mostly bad connections where the wheel sensor plugs into the harness and I usually can take the connector apart and clean the insides with electrical contact cleaner and get them to work. If they keep coming back with the same problem I will cut the connectors off and solder and shrink wrap the wires and that fixes them permanently. I also have a bendix tester that plugs into the diagnostic port and it functions the same way as the lights on the module. If it shows a wheel sensor the first thing to do is pull the connector apart and check the ohms on the wheel sensor, should read about 1500. After you have diagnosed and repaired the issue the module and or the tester can be reset with a magnet to see if the light stays off. To reset the module get a small magnet and touch it to the module just past the last light and it will light up all the lights and when you take it off the module will be reset. With the tester touch the magnet to the end of it and all lights will be turned on then remove magnet to complete the reset. If there is a wiring issue the individual light will come right back on. If the issue is something else the light will stay off until the vehicle is driven a few mph then the light will come back on. On our 16 buses I have changed 2 or 3 wheel speed sensors over the past 14 years. Haven't changed any other components out. most of my issues have been bad connections where the speed sensor plugs into the harness. Hope this helps you out.
Where can I find out what the codes mean? My antilock unit has three LEDs lit up, labeled SEN, LFT and RER. I'm guessing that maybe means the sensor for the left rear wheel is the problem?
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:31 PM   #17
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That sounds right for the location. If you have an ohm meter you can unplug the connector where the sensor wire plugs into the harness and check ohms on the two pins that go to the sensor. Should read around 1500 ohms for a healthy sensor. If it reads open or no resistance, after examining the wire going to the sensor for any damage, then probably a bad sensor. They seem to be pretty reliable, only changed a few out. Most problems I have encountered is a poor connection in the connector. If my ohms read right I spray both mating connectors out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in then reset the system and see if the light stays out. This is my first step in troubleshooting an abs light.
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Old 11-20-2021, 03:44 AM   #18
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ABS Sensor Ohm reading

Thanks for this! If 1500ohm is the normal reading, what do you think is a reasonable range either side of 1500?

Do you think 1500ohm would be the same for most International buses (mine is a 2002 3800 model)?
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