AC Breaker Panel Question

[dj2109]

Hello,

I have a question about my AC Panel.

I have a 100amp Breaker Box.

I've wired a transfer switch to my shore power, inverter, and breaker box.

This transfer switch has three settings: 1, 2 and 0 (0 being OFF).

When 1 is selected, it will allow shore power to energize my breaker box.

When 2 is selected, it will allow my inverter to energize my breaker box.

My question is how do I wire the sections running to my breaker box?

I've included a diagram of my thought process.

2nd bonus question:

I bought a 50 amp extension cord that I've stripped and used to connect my inlet and transfer switch. It's 6AWG (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground).

I've found online that 25amps @ 110v only requires 12AWG. Why do they use 6AWG? Can I use 12AWG safely? Is it important to stay consistent?

I've tested a connection between inlet and AC panel and the voltage is all correct...

P.S. 6 AWG does not fit in my inverter AC out nor in the ground/neutral bars.

Thanks.

[dj2109]

[dj2109]

[JDOnTheGo]

Typical "50 amp" RV service is NOT 50 amps. Is is two legs of 120VAC, each with 50 amp potential - a grand total of 100 amps @ 120VAC.

[kazetsukai]

Originally Posted by dj2109

I have a 100amp Breaker Box.

Pictures, particularly of the inside, and included the neutral/ground bars.

Originally Posted by dj2109

My question is how do I wire the sections running to my breaker box?

Can you clarify this a bit? "sections" , "running into"

Originally Posted by dj2109

I've found online that 25amps @ 110v only requires 12AWG. Why do they use 6AWG? Can I use 12AWG safely? Is it important to stay consistent?

Not sure what the actual rationale is, but some small homes with older electrical run on 50A... these are cables that non-electricians are expected to be plugging into their rigs on a regular basis, I imagine there's some buffer in there for safety, for cable fatigue, etc.


EDIT:

Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo

Typical "50 amp" RV service is NOT 50 amps. Is is two legs of 120VAC, each with 50 amp potential - a grand total of 100 amps @ 120VAC.

I had this framed wrong in my head as well. Amps, yeah, that's each leg. Yikes!

Originally Posted by dj2109

P.S. 6 AWG does not fit in my inverter AC out nor in the ground/neutral bars.

Can you show the front of the inverter as well?

The inverter is safe with a smaller gauge (than 6)

[dj2109]

[dj2109]

DUH. I don’t know why I thought each hot was 25amps

[dj2109]

As for the two connections between my AC panel and my switch, can I connect them to the same hot in my breaker box as shown in my diagram or should I tie them together before?

[dj2109]

ALSO:

Do I need to ground my AC panel to the chassis?

[Native]

Originally Posted by dj2109

2nd bonus question:

I bought a 50 amp extension cord that I've stripped and used to connect my inlet and transfer switch. It's 6AWG (2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground).

I've found online that 25amps @ 110v only requires 12AWG. Why do they use 6AWG? Can I use 12AWG safely? Is it important to stay consistent?

I've tested a connection between inlet and AC panel and the voltage is all correct...

P.S. 6 AWG does not fit in my inverter AC out nor in the ground/neutral bars.

Thanks.

I would venture to say that your inverter can only suppy 25 (AC) amps per leg, thus the specification a wire size less than that of 6AWG. You should consult your inverter installation instructions for the recommended wire size.

[dj2109]

Unfortunately the instructions are not very thorough

[dj2109]

I misspoke in my original post.

6AWG will fit in everything but the ground bar (in the AC panel)

As for the inverter out, nothing fits

[JDOnTheGo]

Originally Posted by dj2109

As for the two connections between my AC panel and my switch, can I connect them to the same hot in my breaker box as shown in my diagram or should I tie them together before?

NO - absolutely not! Some reading about 220/240VAC is in order - pay particular attention to the "split-phase"/"single phase" concept. The two legs are separate for a reason - you cannot combine them. This is the reason that your panel has two legs across which the breakers are divided.

Since nothing is simple, this inability to 'connect' these two legs is also the reason that 'larger' (RV/bus) electrical system appear to be more complicated than one would like. The challenge is creating a system that will do everything one desires on 20/30 amp shore power (one leg of 20 or 30 amps @120VAC) as well as on a 50 amp shore power (two legs of 50 amps @ 120VAC). (the difference being 20/30 amps vs 100 amps)

From what I've seen, nearly all of the larger DIY systems that require 50 amp shore power (multiple air conditioners and such) are setup to with half (approximately) of the load/components on one leg and half on the other. When connected to 'lesser' shore power (30, 20, or 15 amp), the dog bone adapter used splits the one incoming/feeder leg to both of the RV/bus legs. This allows the use of any component in the rig BUT must be managed manually since one could easily overwhelm the potential of the source (draw more power than can be supplied and throwing the shore power 'pedestal' breaker/fuse). Larger motorhomes deal with this thru the use of electronics that prevent the user from harming the system (load shedding and such).

[dj2109]

I’m not trying to combine the two legs. Can you check out my diagram please? Thanks

[dj2109]

Also, supplier says I can use 10AWG.......... I’m scared

[JDOnTheGo]

Originally Posted by dj2109

I’m not trying to combine the two legs. Can you check out my diagram please? Thanks

I guess I don't understand your switch. It makes no sense to me to have two sets (of four) wires coming out of it and going to the panel. That is not a typical transfer switch.

The diagram and text both indicate (to me) that you are trying to tie the two hot legs together. Indicated by the two "posts" connected by two black lines with "HOT" between them.

[dj2109]

Sorry, those posts are not tied together... I thought they were naturally by the manufacturer but after a close look it seems I misunderstand breaker box anatomy.

My transfer switch has four sections, four terminals each for a total of 16 terminals

[JDOnTheGo]

I'd suggest NOT calling that a transfer switch. It isn't a transfer switch and calling it that causes confusion for everyone that is using an actual transfer switch and/or attempting to help.

[dj2109]

Ok changeover switch?

[dj2109]

Ok nevermind.

I got my 6AWG to fit in the AC OUT of the INVERTER

My ONLY QUESTION is can I fit two hot wires in one terminal on my AC panel? One through the top and one through the bottom? Isn’t that how a subpanel is wired?

And with neutral... One through main terminal and one through subterminal of neutral bar?

ALSO does my AC panel need to be grounded to chassis?? Does this require green ground bolt?

Please help. Thanks.