Too much to cover in detail but I'll take a wide swing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
I'm wondering for this if it would be best to just use a single 12V car battery? How do you determine what amperage to use, just match it to the one the motor requires? I've read in a couple of places in my solar research that using two 6V golf cart batteries in tandem costs the same, but works better and lasts longer. Is this the case?
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A typical car battery is a 'starting' battery so is not designed for the type of use that a house inflicts on it. 6V batteries are. Read some articles on the differences. In short, a bank of 6V batteries will provide better & longer service (when properly cared for) than starting batteries (to include what are typically called "deep cycle" batteries).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
Secondly I'm also wondering if the battery (or batteries) charged by the motor would be best used to power coach lighting, one in each "room". Is that reasonable?
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An engine driven alternator is not designed to properly charge a 'house' battery. Read up on 3 and 4 stage charging. The alternator doesn't have a chance to properly charge a battery when connected to multiple banks. The only good way to do this is with something like
this product from Sterling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
As far as an actual solar setup, I was thinking of just using the regular old Renogy 200W 12V kit which has two 100W panels and a charge controller. To make sure I get it right, the wiring runs from the panel to the charge controller. The controller runs both to a ground and to a battery bank
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That much (above) is correct. However; you can't know how much solar you "need" until you do an
energy audit. If you want to guess and just be happy with the results, you certainly can take that approach. IMO, any solar is better than no solar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
Anyway, from the batteries I run cable to a DC to AC inverter. Would a 2000W inverter be appropriate? From here it just runs to the receptacles, right? I'm not looking to run much off of these, maybe some late night TV and charge a laptop and phones or something.
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Cables (plural - positive and negative). Only you can answer what size inverter is appropriate. What items do you need it to power? Do you need pure sine wave or will modified sine wave suffice?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
Is a breaker needed somewhere in the line? How about shut off switches?
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Breakers and fuses protect the wire. They should be installed in any wires/cables of any significant length.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
I'm also curious about shore power. Where would this tie into this setup? If the camper has an air conditioner, would this somehow run directly to the shore power hookup?
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The 110VAC power/breaker panel is typically powered via a transfer switch. The transfer switch has two inputs (one output). Shore/Generator power is one input, the inverter is the other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calbick Campers
We're also looking at using an LP tank to use with a cooktop and a space heater, and maybe the fridge? Any experience with this?
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That is the typical RV approach and works while providing flexibility. The negatives to an absorption refrigerator is that they are kind of expensive, not very large, not easy to install, and sometimes not super good at what they do (meaning, the ice cream is frozen but just barely). If you plan to do a lot of boondocking, they sip the propane while providing cold storage.