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Old 03-17-2019, 11:54 AM   #61
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After charging and testing the three batteries, I determined that one of the older (dated 11/1 batteries was no good. The other two charged, stabilized, and tested ok under load.

The consensus seemed to be that all other things being ok, that two batteries of slightly different CCA would be ok. I cleaned all connections to shiny metal and reassembled. The bus started right up and was charging the batteries at 14.3v. I did not have the jumper cable to install the battery disconnect, so I left it with negative cables disconnected. I'll do that next.

I appreciate all the help.

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Old 03-17-2019, 12:06 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Me yap, who has 4500 plus posts? Oh yeah, mr know it all. The guy who knows more than the people that discovered and harnessed electricity. So, continue to impress on how much you know wiseguy!

Never did I say your idea wouldn't work. I said it is a poor idea, poor solution when dealing in bigger lugs sizes. Poor mechanically and electrically. Why? because your flimsy way of connecting leads to arcing simply,which in turn leads to more problems electrically.

Done with you on this. You wanna argue black is white, go someplace else.

Now does the OP have toasted batteries or not before you so rudely interrupted the conversation.

Technically you never said anything about what I recommended. You did say that the one the OP posted " That won't handle the size cables that buses have, better suited for autos or smaller boats etc. I use that on my Suburban battery but you need a heavier duty disconnect for your bus." You're wrong!
That disconnect will handle all the amperage coming from the battery. Is it the best you can buy, no. Will it more than handle the same job the more expensive one does, absolutely. The hole in the lug on the end of the cable has no bearing on it's performance if used on an appropriately sized stud on the battery. For someone seemingly educated on electrics, I think you are totally wrong here and have offered no numbers to back your claims.
I no more rudely interrupted anything anymore than anyone else posting. I offered an option for the OP that he is concidering.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:42 PM   #63
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Looks like you cleaned up those terminals real pretty!

This is the kind of the we all have to get proficient at troubleshooting, congrats on making progress! Thatís what itís all about. Just chipping away every day that you can.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:44 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by TeacherJoe View Post
When I got my bus ('05 FS65, Cat C7), I knew one battery tested bad. After sitting for a while it wouldn't turn over. I pulled the bad battery and replaced it. Started right up. Voltmeter on the dash read 14.1 while running. It all seemed good. The bus sat for a while more, and yesterday wouldn't even try to turn over. I put the multimeter on the batteries and it read around 8 volts.

I have three Group 31 batteries. Is that optimum?
Should I pull each battery and test individually?
Are my batteries toast and need replacement?

I am going to try to determine if there is a parasitic draw (I'm totally new to this). Any advice or comments are welcome.

The Batteries will go dead if connected all the time. Depending on the year, diesels are electronic more and more. Many have ECMs that draw power 24/7/365. The BEST thing to do is get a battery cut-off switch. Flaming River makes a really good 300 amp switch that has provision for a Padlock to lock-out the switch. Every truck and bus I work on has one, the most positive way to preserve battery life. When a truck has to sit for more than a month, that truck gets a trickle charge Solar Battery Maintainer. The battery gets a trickle charge all day long that shuts off when the batteries are fully charged. Walk-up to the truck, unlock the battery switch, turn on the switch and fair the truck without problem. The only way that seems to maintain batteries all the time! 24 volt buses get dual solar chargers, those big D8 batteries really work well when maintained!
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:53 AM   #65
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Your clean up looks good. Long term I would say a solar panel to maintain the batteries is the best thing to do. This does assume it is parked outside and not under a tree.

By the way on all the railroad equipment we have battery disconnect switches that disconnect all power including the starter from the battery. Even the locomotives have them. All are rated at full battery power. So three 900 plus amp batteries would have a disconnect capable of 2700 amps.

We started taking the batteries out of anything that might sit for more then few months and set up chargeing room with chargers meant for maintaining batteries. Cleaning, testing, and keeping full of fluid is all part of this.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:10 AM   #66
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I will be installing these two items later this week.

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Old 03-24-2019, 11:30 AM   #67
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I think Iím done...

Batteries are good, connections are clean, disconnect installed, solar trickle charger cranking away. Onto the next project.

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