Battery drain/emergency buzzers

ChrisFL · 08-14-2018, 07:07 AM

So I've been fighting battery drain on my bus. I took out all our seats and unloaded them to my warehouse for storage until can be sold. Had been driving down road w/ rear emergency window open, and the top exits open. They fell and broke (Friday). Emergency exit buzzers were going off in the parking lot when I left to return home with bus.

I went to drive the bus this weekend on Sunday to dump all the trash from removing half the floor and wall panels. Wont start. Cant get to jump with jump box even set to 50amp. Have been charging since, but still wont start. The buzzers are all still going off, so I tried to figure it out.

Beginning of video you can hear when I try to start all the buzzers going crazy. I then tour the bus looking at all emergency exit windows and doors. Windows have been untouched except for one next to side exit door. I removed it to figure out how to remove side panels, but its installed and reconnected. I removed the panel for the side exit door, clamped the switch with vice grips and reattached the ground cable to the frame (the door lock wont compress switch since it was mounted to metal side panel, which is no gone). Top windows theres no harness that connects to the hanging cables, but I still put the circle loop to metal to try to ground it. Then the rear window I tried opening instead of locking.

Cut to end of the video, I try to start and theres no more buzzing. I then went outside to change from 2 amp to 50 amp to try to crank, but my wife called and ended the video. I went back in still couldnt charge, and tried to trouble shoot. I tried removing the circle loop that I stuck to metal on the ceiling exits and didnt change anything

ANYWAY, long story short, emergency exit buzzers are stopping.

QUESTION: if these are "triggered", but the bus is off, would it still be drawing current from the battery without activating the buzzer, causing my battery to die? Thats the only thing I can think is killing the battery. All switches/dials are off (and have been).

Part 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI9W...ature=youtu.be

Part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxSV...ature=youtu.be

EastCoastCB · 08-14-2018, 07:13 AM

The ECM on these buses will kill the battery if left sitting. Happened to mine.

Every bus I've had has came with older batteries that die after a couple months max. I've never had any luck re-charging them.

THe wiring is a mess on these buses and if the school cut some wires you may have to dig a lot to find what's going on.

A multi-meter is your best friend. Whats the voltage at your batteries? Your engine is turning over so its not an interlock issue.

Your emergency hatch looks like its not grounded. one end should plug into the latch and one should be screwed to the bare metal for ground. But mine will start with it open, so yours should too.

Go to the engine and look for a panel with a starter switch. Have you tried starting it from back there?

ChrisFL · 08-14-2018, 11:58 AM

Went home at lunch and checked on bus since I seemed to have gotten the buzzers to stop (as shown in the videos). I tried to crank her up, nothing. Buzzers back on. I let them ring and tried to find what was causing it... both the one by the side exit and above the rear window were going off. I unplugged a wire from the switch that the door lock arm compresses on side exit door and everything turned off.

I took a multimeter to the battery and was like 13.2V.

I have my brother in law coming by after work with a battery checker from their repair shop, can tell me status of battery...

If its the battery, I can get an Interstate 8D new for $195 + tax, so a bit discounted. I need to look up kill switches for enough amps to be safe. I dont feel like having to deal with this why I try to figure out the wiring and whats causing shorts...

EastCoastCB · 08-14-2018, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisFL

Went home at lunch and checked on bus since I seemed to have gotten the buzzers to stop (as shown in the videos). I tried to crank her up, nothing. Buzzers back on. I let them ring and tried to find what was causing it... both the one by the side exit and above the rear window were going off. I unplugged a wire from the switch that the door lock arm compresses on side exit door and everything turned off.

I took a multimeter to the battery and was like 13.2V.

I have my brother in law coming by after work with a battery checker from their repair shop, can tell me status of battery...

If its the battery, I can get an Interstate 8D new for $195 + tax, so a bit discounted. I need to look up kill switches for enough amps to be safe. I dont feel like having to deal with this why I try to figure out the wiring and whats causing shorts...

Doesn't sound like your battery is bad.

JDOnTheGo · 08-15-2018, 06:23 AM

13.2 Volts on a resting 12V battery (open circuit for the last six hours or so) is a good indicator that your meter is no good as this is not possible.

Attempting to determine state of charge/condition using battery voltage is a waste of time. It is even worse if the battery has not been resting in an open circuit state for the last 24 hours (six minimum). Get a cheap hydrometer and use it if you want accurate information.

somewhereinusa · 08-15-2018, 07:45 AM

Many people start trouble shooting at the wrong end. You can quite easily test to see if the battery will crank the engine. Go to the starter solenoid and jump from the small terminal to the terminal coming from the battery. If it cranks the problem is somewhere else. Put a test light on that same little terminal and have someone try to crank the engine. If it lights the problem is not in the wiring.

EastCoastCB · 08-15-2018, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

Many people start trouble shooting at the wrong end. You can quite easily test to see if the battery will crank the engine. Go to the starter solenoid and jump from the small terminal to the terminal coming from the battery. If it cranks the problem is somewhere else. Put a test light on that same little terminal and have someone try to crank the engine. If it lights the problem is not in the wiring.

In the video the engine is turning over like normal, it just doesn't start.

ChrisFL · 08-15-2018, 12:46 PM

Its the battery. I unhooked and took to my in laws auto shop and they tested it. Came in at 540CCA...

So, I ordered a kill switch (180A continuous 1000A intermittent)

Not sure what the hell is going on with the battery harnesses on the bus, though. I'm used to cars...

I have so many wires on positive and negative. On each, theres a thick jumper that connects back on the post. On the negative, its the front loop w/ the white small wire, and on the positive its the red loop w/ red small wire.

I dont know which one I need to put the kill switch on for the positive lol. Should I trace them to see where they go? And if so, where should I look for?

Any input?

I'm getting an Interstate 8D to replace it with.

somewhereinusa · 08-15-2018, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

In the video the engine is turning over like normal, it just doesn't start.

Sorry I don't watch videos, too expensive.

ChrisFL · 08-15-2018, 01:15 PM

Actually, I keep thinking this kill switch is small. I remembered its pretty big, so all of those red lines should fit, and then I just need to fab a jumper to go to battery.

BlackJohn · 08-15-2018, 03:08 PM

You have some serious cleaning to do on those cables showing. Both ends I would say. That robs starting power for the starter and the heaters so will be noticeable if you don't clean it up and look after them from now on.
The kill switch you have would be interesting to see. Hint for you...
switch the negative side right off the battery post.

John

ChrisFL · 08-16-2018, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

You have some serious cleaning to do on those cables showing. Both ends I would say. That robs starting power for the starter and the heaters so will be noticeable if you don't clean it up and look after them from now on.
The kill switch you have would be interesting to see. Hint for you...
switch the negative side right off the battery post.
John

I agree, they look like ****. I'll take care of them, mix equal parts bakinga soda to water, then put slurry on and use a wire bristle brush to clean em up

Put in a new battery, well, got one. Put in tray but waiting to hook up until I get my kill switch that comes today. I have to run (marathon training...) and then go to Tampa tomorrow for the weekend.

Hopefully Sunday I can get some time to go out and figure out how to wire this all up cleanly, as theres not a lot of space in there...

132# battery lol

EastCoastCB · 08-16-2018, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

Sorry I don't watch videos, too expensive.

hmmmm how do they charge you for watching YouTube?

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