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Old 05-13-2020, 11:12 AM   #21
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Wild Wild West
Posts: 691
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by sproutroot View Post
somehow the image I attached here was forbidden by google, so I sketched this up.

Attachment 44408
I plan on doing this method of charging, but I don't know what the amp output is on my alternator. How can I find this out? My alt. no longer has a label on it.

Also, how do you balance the charge rate between the two big bus batteries and the deep cycle characteristics of the house batteries? I seem to remember the two types of batteries like to be charged at differently.

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Old 05-13-2020, 11:26 AM   #22
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Something to keep in mind, automotive alternators are not rated for continuous duty. If you try and draw 150 Amps continuous from a 180 Amp alternator you will let the magic smoke out in short order.

I would suggest contacting the alternator manufacturers and ask what the continuous duty rating is on the alternators that you are looking at.
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:25 PM   #23
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Vermont
Posts: 152
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Turtle Top
Chassis: E-Super Duty
Engine: Ford 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 13-passenger
There are isolators for every application depending on how much money you want to put into this.

Some are really just solenoids that open the circuit when the ignition is shut off. This is what I have. You have to be careful with these. I have a manual override on it so that I can avoid voltage spikes during startup, and boiling my deep cells during charging. Boiling is a problem when your house batteries are significantly depleted. It's also a problem once they're close to fully charged. Basically I act as the "almost-smart charger", monitoring the voltage on both ends of the circuit, and let the alternator regulator do the rest.

I honestly would not recommend the above. You've got to be a student of voltage and battery percentage all the time to get it to work, and it only takes one screw-up to be up s#!*s creek.

There are also battery isolators with DC/DC converters built right in. These can be even more fancy than your inverter/chargers. Staged charging voltages and amperages. Minimize alternator fatigue. All kinds of bells and whistles.

Then there's everything in between these two options. Tons to choose from.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:45 PM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas RE
Engine: 3126B
This guy has a belt-driven gen setup.

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Old 05-22-2020, 01:11 PM   #25
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 347
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Auragen makes military grade belt-driven generator/inverters with massive output. Some of their inverters are powered by a 24 Volt battery bank if the engine/generator is not running. If running, the generator will then power the inverter and recharge the battery.

Viper.pdf

I have one of these systems (8500 Watt AC output from generator or 24 VDC battery) hooked up to a small diesel engine for emergency power at my home.

Since I am changing over to a 36 Volt photovoltaic system with a DIY backup engine/generator, I may be interested in selling the 24 VDC to 110 VAC Auragen system.

Please PM if interested.
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