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Old 01-24-2021, 12:15 PM   #21
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 398
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
I'm going to assume your battery bank isn't 120 volts. It doesn't matter if the heater is 120V, if you want to measure the amperage draw on the batteries, you need to divide the wattage of the consumer by the battery voltage to get a rough estimate.


For a 12V bank, you will be drawing 5.8A from the inverter, but to satisfy 5.8A at 120V, the inverter will need to be drawing 58.3A (more in actuality, due to inefficiencies) from the battery bank. With a 24V bank, you'd be drawing 29.1A. A 48V bank would be drawing 14.6A, and so on. Add 3% to 12% for inefficiencies.
Thanks Kazetsukai, I was wondering if that was the case. I knew it couldn't be as simple as I had laid out otherwise everyone would be doing it. Thanks for setting the record straight!

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Old 01-24-2021, 03:07 PM   #22
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Join Date: Nov 2016
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Stored DC electricity used for that kind of heat production is impractical.

A fuel-burning "parking heater" that is used to heat the living space, aka "hydronic" heating system

can be tied into the engine's coolant loop

pre-heat the engine for freezing weather startups

and also tap into engine heat while driving to heat up the living space,

Otherwise, a genset is needed if you won't have access to shore power.
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