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Old 01-27-2017, 02:27 PM   #1
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 34
Smile Boats Electrical Books

Are Boats alternating current (AC) electrical setup similar as RV? ,the reason I ask there's lots of books for boats like: Replacing Your Boat's Electrical System (Adlard Coles Manuals . please I need advice before I buy it .Thanks.

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Old 01-27-2017, 08:16 PM   #2
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 34
I found a answer:

Boat vs RV systems
Many, but not all, systems aboard a power boat are similar or identical to the systems aboard a motorhome and a subset are similar to the systems found on other RVs. As a result, I’ve been able to apply much of my systems experiences and learning interchangeably between the two. The following comparisons are by no means comprehensive, just the items that I think of as I write; I’ll add to them as more come to mind.

Some examples of similar or identical systems are:

* Fresh water system, including fresh water tank, pump(s), plumbing and filter(s).

* Electric water heater (most boats don’t have propane water heaters due to the explosion risk with LPG leaks).

* Shore power, except that some marine hookups use different plugs and 50A marina comes in two flavors for a boat.

* Basic engine, but a boat may have one or two engines. (I’m ignoring I/O or outboard engines for the purpose of this discussion.)

* Power steering.

* Starting batteries.

* Emergency start/crossover.

* House batteries.

* Inverter batteries.

* Battery disconnect switches.

* Inverter/charger.

* Converter.

* DC lights.

* AC lights.

* AC receptacles and GFIs.

* Kitchen/galley extration fans.

* Generator.

* Navigation system (PC-based, stand-alone, or handheld), but road/street maps are replaced with navigation charts.

* Electric stove.

* Microwave or micro/convection oven.

* Fire extinguishers.

* Fiberglass/gel coat. Few recreational boats have the equivalent of ‘full body paint’ used on many RVs.

Examples of systems that are usually quite different in a boat are:

* Engine cooling will be either sea water directly or sea water cooling via a heat exchanger. (The latter is often referred to as “fresh water cooling”, but usually uses coolant similar to road vehicles). Either one requires a sea water pump.

* Similarly for generator cooling.

* The transmission will be a simple forward/neutral/reverse.

* Propulsion is eiher by propeller(s) or jet pump(s). Some layouts require V-drives. Tires and wheels bearing issues are replaced by a host of others.

* Preventing or minimizing sea water leakage around through the hull where the prop shaft(s) enter.

* Steering is from the rear, by rudder (except in the case of jet drives). Some power boats also have bow &/or stern thrusters to provide manouverability in close quarters.

* No suspension components to worry about.

* No brakes or ABS to wear out or fail.

* Communications usually VHF for inlland or near-shore cruising. Cell phone coverage is often adequate.

* Air conditionning and heating use reversible heat pumps fed by sea water to transport heat into or out of the heating/cooling unit.

* Toilet flush is typically vacuum flush with some water added. This is also being used on some RVs to allow “remote” location of the black water tank.

* Grey water is either discharged directly overboard or drains to a sump and pumped overboard from there.

* Black water is either pumped directly into a holding tank, or via an on-board treatment system. Rules for overboard discharge of treated sewage varies, but is allowed in some inland waters. No discharge of untreated allowed unless outside the 3-mile limit. Emptying a black tank usually requires involves a pump, either on board or dockside.

* Below-water through-hull fittings are something the typical RVer doesn’t need to worry about. For the boater, a failed or leaking fitting could result in unexpected sinking of the vessel.

* Exterior ighting systems have significantly different requirements; Boats are required to have navigation and anchor lights.

* Anchoring system.

* Radar is essential for foggy conditions or night time navigation. Many of the maintenance issues are similar, but some that are unique to boats are:

* Zinc anodes on external metal parts and internal metal parts that come in contact with water.

* Bottom paint to retard growth which would significantly affect speed/performance. Some caveats:

* As with RVs, boats come in a large variety of sizes and with a different set of amenities. Clearly, a small trailerable fishing boat doesn’t have most of the systems and amenities I’ve mentioned above, but neither does a tent trailer.

* The U.S. Coast Guard has regulations and standards that govern many things aboard a boat.

* Because of the marine environment, many components need to be protected against moisture or water.

* Much of the wiring aboard will be flexible and often will have individual strands tin plated for corrosion resistance.

* Because of the high explosion risk aboard gasoline-powered boats, many components need to be ignition protected &/or located outside the engine room.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:38 PM   #3
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Location: Oakland, Ca
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Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Detroit Diesel 6-71 Mid-ship
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I highly recommend Nigel Clader's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual"

In the diy sailing world, it's the go-to reference. Everyone uses it, for good reason.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:44 PM   #4
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 34
Smile Thank you

[QUOTE=yeggs;181906]I highly recommend Nigel Clader's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual"

In the diy sailing world, it's the go-to reference. Everyone uses it, for good reason.

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