Buy an Aussie Power Point (Outlet) in the US?

[tomrasdf]

Hi all!

Trying to source an Australian outlet to power a 240v cooktop in my build, and it seems that all the forces of Amazon and Google are against me.

Anyone how someone in the US can get their hands on a single aussie power point?

[desrtdog]

Got a pic of the plug you can share?

[tomrasdf]

This or similar:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Elegant-Si.../dp/B08Z7MKRK1

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by tomrasdf

Hi all!

Trying to source an Australian outlet to power a 240v cooktop in my build, and it seems that all the forces of Amazon and Google are against me.

Anyone how someone in the US can get their hands on a single aussie power point?

Originally Posted by tomrasdf

This or similar:
https://www.amazon.com.au/Elegant-Si.../dp/B08Z7MKRK1

4C | Elegant Single Power Point 250V 15A Horizontal



Something doesn't jive. The receptacal shown does not have four terminals to provide 240v, with neutral & ground
A cooktop usually has & ought to have separate ground & neutral, in addition to two split-phase hots (120v, ea.). Is there no clock? A water heater often has two hots & one ground, no neutral (grounded conductor). Imo, this looks like a device to be use on other continents.

👉What model & manufacturer range are you installing?

Please post a photo of the
👉Nameplate Rating,
located on the back, it will list volts, amps, overcurrent protection, hertz, etc....

We need more info to help you. Please update the thread.

[tomrasdf]

It's a Safiery dual hob induction top made for the Australian RV market.

It is rated for 220v-240v, 50-60hz.

It has a standard Aussie plug for a single phase 3 wire 230v outlet.

I have an box wired in my bus to accommodate this; I just need an Australian outlet.

[nikitis]

The outlet has printed on it rated for 200V, 15A.

Your cooktop likely surges to 240, but doesn't use the full 240.

Look up "UL Charts for outlets", you can find one that matches your shape, and then search for that UL number.

[tomrasdf]

Yup - the outlet in the amazon link is just an example of a standard Australian outlet.

Another example:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-sin...point_p4430427

Unfortunately, it's not as easy as popping on over to Hammer Barn. I can't find a retailer in AU that ships to the US, and Alibaba only has junk of suspect quality.

Any leads?

My next option is to install a single-phase US 230v outlet, and change the cord on the cooktop to accommodate, but I'd like to keep the original plug if possible. Just need the darned outlet.

[nikitis]

Unfortunately your best bet is to search for Australian or New Zealand Electrical supply shops and call them up and ask if they'll ship to US. Normally they wouldn't because of laws around that kind of thing, but someone may be willing to sell you one and ship it. You won't find it in any US Stores.

[tomrasdf]

Originally Posted by nikitis

Look up "UL Charts for outlets", you can find one that matches your shape, and then search for that UL number.

Ah - didn't read this part of your post. Looking at a NEMA plug chart, the 10-20R looks the same, I am finding posts on ship maintenance forums stating that NEMA 10-20R and AU/NZS 3112 outlets are interchangeable.

Unless someone can help me find a genuine AU outlet, I'll see if I can pick up a 10-20R on the cheap to test.

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by nikitis

The outlet has printed on it rated for 200V, 15A.

Your cooktop likely surges to 240, but doesn't use the full 240.

Look up "UL Charts for outlets", you can find one that matches your shape, and then search for that UL number.

-------------

In AC circuits, the Voltage is constant. The resistor cannot control the voltage. Amps however, can vary from one resistor to the next, while the voltage being supplied (by the power production) will not vary based on the resistance of the device using the power.

The plug designs differ to prevent end users from electrifying a device with the incorrect voltage.

Tomrasdf,
You can check the appliance's rating plate to see if it's dual voltage rated, such as "INPUT: 110-240V". You can also use an adapter to plug a Aussie plug into an UD outlet, but this may not be enough to convert the device to Australian electricity.

Aussies use 50hz/230v three wire. One 230v hot, one neutral, one ground. In the US we use 60hz/120v, also three wire. To supply 240v in the US, we (typically) need four wires: two 120v hots, one neutral, one ground. The device has only three terminals, each is aligned with the internals of your cooktop. If you were to skip the ground or neutral and supply two hots, you will be connecting one where the ground or neutral ought to go, which will weld the guts of the device plugged in.

[Mekanic]

I know this is not what you want to hear,…..I met some folks from Belgium camping in Utah years ago. They were using their European camper. Only the lights were working on the electric. They said they went and bought a propane stove to cook on.

[hcarter951@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by tomrasdf

Hi all!

Trying to source an Australian outlet to power a 240v cooktop in my build, and it seems that all the forces of Amazon and Google are against me.

Anyone how someone in the US can get their hands on a single aussie power point?

I think it unlikely you will get this to work here in the colonies. As noted else where, US mains require 2 115v hot wires, usually black and red is typical, to make 220/230.

One solution could be to buy an undoubtedly expensive and hard to source aussie generator that makes the correct voltage without jumping thru NEMA hoops. Or scrap the aussie hob and get a designed for 115v-60 induction plate. Probably the cheapest, easiest and safest route.

BTW, I'm not an electrician but I played one in a factory for 20 years

Good luck,
Hcarter951 in KY

[LargeMargeInBaja]

One word -- propane.
.
If you are having this much of a down-under issue this early in your conversion, I shudder in horrified appalled astonishment at the potential cumulative cascading collapse after a few kilo-meters and kilo-hours of rough roads (and in my case, Operator Error).
.
.
2003, we built our rig with 'primitive' in mind.
Zero plumbing, and almost zero electric.
Nothing fussy to wear or break.
.
[edited to add]
Over two decades full-time live-aboard.
Our simple minds enjoy our simplicity.
Constantly fussing with fussy gadgets... not so much.

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by tomrasdf

Ah - didn't read this part of your post. Looking at a NEMA plug chart, the 10-20R looks the same, I am finding posts on ship maintenance forums stating that NEMA 10-20R and AU/NZS 3112 outlets are interchangeable.

Unless someone can help me find a genuine AU outlet, I'll see if I can pick up a 10-20R on the cheap to test.

Grainger sells one:
https://www.grainger.com/product/49Y...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[somewhereinusa]

Why not simply change the male plug to match whatever receptacle that matches the volt/amp requirements that you can buy in the US?
On doing some research it may be possible but my induction cooktops are a bit finicky about hertz. They don't like modified sine wave at all.

[Renzo_S]

Alibaba, but you need to have the app
https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/who...cal-items.html