Buzzer Problem - 1994 Thomas

[GrassMonster]

Howdy! I'm just starting to look at my electric situation and have a buzzer problem that is priority #1. I've checked the wire connections that I can easily find but opening the electrical panel reveals an incomprehensible mess. I'd like to learn how to interpret the rats nest so I can maybe tidy it up a bit.

Details:

If the key is in the ignition a buzzer in the electric box goes off constantly as well as the buzzer on the rear emergency door.

No lights come on associated with the buzzer.

The bus won't start from the front, I need to start it from the engine compartment in the back.

Once the engine is running both buzzers continue to go off constantly.

If I just take the wires off the door alarm and wire them together will that fix the issue?


I have a basic understanding of electricity but have never worked with electric in the sense of a skoolie!

[Brad_SwiftFur]

Hard telling not knowing, but I have a buzzer at my back door. If the latch is opened a bit, the buzzer activates. It is easily silenced by fully closing the door latch. There may be one near the driver's control panel too, in your case. I have not tried de-wiring it yet, but it may simply be something I can unplug without having to reconnect anything.

[rffffffff]

Most of the time removing wires makes this issue worse.

The back door usually has to be left unlocked in order to operate the bus if I recall correctly, but closed and latched with the main latch.

The best solution I have seen, which I can try to help illustrate further is simply to ground one of the solenoids in the electrical compartment and then get rid of all of the other junk as it becomes irrelevant.

If you need further instructions and Google doesn’t help let me know and I’ll post a picture of what I did.

[Meathead]

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/h...ock-10956.html

The vandalock system is not allowing you to start bcuz something is open, OR if there is an additional bolt action lock, that lock must be unlocked. (first responders need to be able to get in.

The above thread, I think, discusses disabling the vandalock system for a bus like yours. Then you can pull the locks and buzzers as you like.

That particular thread didn’t work for my 2001 Thomas.
I ran a wire from the “ST” terminal on my key switch to the button in the engine compartment, bypassing the window and door checks. The rear button is intended for the mechanic who doesn’t need to worry about closing windows and doors. The buzzers will still go off so just pull em.

Good luck! [emoji3522]

[GrassMonster]

Thanks for the reply! I'd appreciate a picture just to help solidify the results of my googling

When I open the electrical compartment I am at a total loss for identifying which solenoids are for what. I can see which buzzer is going off constantly but I can't figure out how to relate it to the wiring diagrams I've found online.

[GrassMonster]

Interesting, meathead. I'll definitely look into disabling that system. I don't have the bolts latched, but I have the doors shut and the buttons to verifying that are definitely in good contact. My suspicion is that somewhere between the back of the bus and the front electric panel, a wire got knocked loose somewhere. No idea how to figure that out quite yet, but it's my best guess

[rffffffff]

So this is the solenoid on my bus. There were only two but this one had the terminal on the case to ground and the other didn’t. The pink wire that I’m touching just screws to any ground point in the panel and everything works no matter what. I’m pretty sure I still had to disable the buzzers after but no issue starting ever again.

[Doktari]

I disconnected the main hot wire going to my auxiliary panel. And my bus still starts. I didn’t want any of those extra wires getting power anymore. A few have been cut and could short out. Did you get your bus directly from the government?. You would think the wires would be tidy. It sounds like someone messed with them which can take time to sort out.