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Old 01-18-2018, 05:36 PM   #41
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I know what it is showing and how to use it.
My math is still in the 80's so I have books that fit in my back pocket that to help size things.
Ain't a sparky and never wanted to be but I have done enough of it commercial wise to know better.
SKOOLIE wise?
I have a tape measure and a 60$ construction calculator that has done many a job over 20-years without the X Y PI mess.
Yeah some engineer has to do it?
All you need to do is better than the minimum anything on the Internet search was built but?
If they say 12AWG go for 10 or 8 if you want to add?
Asking for an opinion is fine but in the end you are one that has to deal with any problems?

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Old 01-18-2018, 06:52 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam View Post
I don't understand - the negative already goes straight to the battery terminal with just the shunt for the battery monitor between. Are you suggesting the shunt should go elsewhere?

I'm also proposing running the ground terminal on the inverter to a chassis ground. I'm not sure what change you're proposing.

I do finally understand your point on using the 6AWG wires for A.C. input - it lets me size the system to be able to handle 50A shore power instead of 30A shore power.
Your most recent diagram, post 31, shows the neg inverter connection, going to chassis ground, not directly to a neg battery post is what I am saying and would change. less chance of a bad ground through the chassis is what is required.
The inverter case needs grounding yes, chassis is fine.
Good on the 50 amp #6, as I thought that is how you are building your service.
Hope this helps.

John
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:33 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Your most recent diagram, post 31, shows the neg inverter connection, going to chassis ground, not directly to a neg battery post is what I am saying and would change. less chance of a bad ground through the chassis is what is required.
The inverter case needs grounding yes, chassis is fine.
Good on the 50 amp #6, as I thought that is how you are building your service.
Hope this helps.

John
That's not how I drew it, but I can see how it would look that way. I'll adjust the picture so it's more clear.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-20-2018, 05:00 AM   #44
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I thought you were planning a 30 amp shore power connection. If planning to go with 50 amp service, it is important to understand that a 50 amp RV shore power connection is TWO legs of 50 amps (at 120VAC). You can "ignore" the second leg if you like or you can actually put it to work but that takes some extra effort/equipment.
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Old 01-20-2018, 10:23 AM   #45
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And make sure to carry a 30 amp adapter. Most parks (private & otherwise) are still at 30 as a "standard".
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Old 01-20-2018, 01:34 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
I thought you were planning a 30 amp shore power connection. If planning to go with 50 amp service, it is important to understand that a 50 amp RV shore power connection is TWO legs of 50 amps (at 120VAC). You can "ignore" the second leg if you like or you can actually put it to work but that takes some extra effort/equipment.
I was planning to do 30A, but I decided to spend the extra money and do the 50A input (with adapters to plug into 30A and 15A). One of the legs is going to be disconnected for now - other than some more expensive components (wires, shore power cord, various connectors), it doesn't change the setup much.

Thanks again to everyone for the help. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the install goes smoothly. I was surprised how much the "little stuff" like wires and the shore power cord, etc. ended up costing. Last chance to tell me I'm all screwed up!

I'm planning to test everything with a multimeter before flipping it on.
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Old 01-20-2018, 02:03 PM   #47
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Not sure what those small brown rectangles are in your diagram, fuses or connection points?
Neutrals are never fused or grounds , so not sure what I am even looking at again.
The inverter ground shows connection to the chassis. I guess if you are happy with it fine but the most integral, no compromised connection is to the negative battery post or you will see smoke eventually.

John
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Old 01-20-2018, 02:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Not sure what those small brown rectangles are in your diagram, fuses or connection points?
Neutrals are never fused or grounds , so not sure what I am even looking at again.
The inverter ground shows connection to the chassis. I guess if you are happy with it fine but the most integral, no compromised connection is to the negative battery post or you will see smoke eventually.

John
Those little boxes are where I am connecting wires with a multi-tap connector. I have a note on the diagram, but it's a little confusing.

The Xantrex has three connectors on the back: Positive, Negative, and Chassis Ground. Are you saying I should not attack a ground here and just rely on the ground that is connected to the battery negative terminal? Does it cause any problems if I attach the ground in both places?
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Old 01-20-2018, 04:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam View Post
Those little boxes are where I am connecting wires with a multi-tap connector. I have a note on the diagram, but it's a little confusing.

The Xantrex has three connectors on the back: Positive, Negative, and Chassis Ground. Are you saying I should not attack a ground here and just rely on the ground that is connected to the battery negative terminal? Does it cause any problems if I attach the ground in both places?
Attachment 18585

Ok good on the connections I see then now in multitap config. Did not see note on that so asked for clarity, ty.

Both grounds required, the case and the equip itself.
Case grd goes to chassis.
Equip ground goes right to negative of battery. reasoning is, you will tend to see if the connection is good, tight and clean from corrosion. If you just go to the chassis with the neg of the equip, then you will neglect its condition and frames(chassis) are susceptible to more corrosion thus bad continuity and loss of the circuit being complete. That makes smoke.

Also, when connecting that inverter, make sure the pos and neg cables are of the same size and length, no matter what it looks like when built. dress the extra somehow and just make good connections. Less overheating of the cables this way and prolonged life expectancy, trouble free.
Actually, that is the best practice for any cables entering an enclosure, connect whichever one needs to be the longest and match the others to that length as much as possible.

John
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