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Old 04-02-2017, 05:55 PM   #1
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Red face e450 2002 7.3 bluebird,battery drain in 10 secs

hi guys,im new to this forum and just got vehicle ,i did some research but couldnt find a solution
i cut off all the ignition interlock circuit breakers at both rear doors,there were 6 of them,then i cut off assuming power cable(10mm diameter or so,i traced it was hooked to secondary battery straight) for wheelchair lift(which is taken off too)and there also were 2 cables white and black thin ones,white was connected to circ.breaker and had extension to another 4 of them then extended further to *big block with tons of fuses,wires etc*
black one connected at wheelchair motor circuit breaker.
also both black and white cable came all the way underneath of steering wheel into fuse box and they splitted from there(2 white,2 black)which i couldnt where it lead.
i will attach pics soon.
sorry for mess in punctuation,etc. i aint native english speaker.
PS. Forgot to say,vehicle started first time after i used another *full* battery ,but after cutting some wires gauge just went down in like 10 secs from normal to 0,im assuming some short somewhere? or bad alternator diode ?
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:39 PM   #2
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Bat https://imgur.com/gallery/vBQyM

Pics attached ,thx

Just found out ,battery doesn't really drain it's just gauge ,coz I tried to start same battery in other truck and both fired up .So I'm assuming I did mistake somewhere,or circuit breakers still preventing ?
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Old 04-02-2017, 07:37 PM   #3
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Both batteries should be tied together. Not just one to the wheelchair lift. And the starters on these things are pretty wimpy. A new starter cranks things over really fast. Luckily they are cheap + easy to change. Not saying thats what you need, but if the batteries are charged and HOLDING their charge, its next to do.
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:08 PM   #4
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as i said,i removed wheelchair and power wire from battery just hanging,it starts when i put different battery.
Mods didnt checked my post with pictures yet.theres everything on pics.
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Old 04-05-2017, 02:59 PM   #5
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Lol,this forum is almost dead as many others
Idk,i traced and cut off all the unnecessary? wires,replaced bat and it starts somehow
now theres left over 6 cords to power tail lights and it wont work,im not sure what did i wrong,is there any relays i cant go further theyr taped in big bun in that box so i have to disconnect everything in order to figure out.
also does anyone know wheres speed governor for this vehicle,i could go only 65 or so.meanwhile f super duty 97 powerstroke doing 85 with 4.88 rear end and ~18-20k weight.i cant believe 10-13k empty bus cant go faster.
Did some research but no results at all.
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Old 04-05-2017, 03:07 PM   #6
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just found by vin number it has 4.10 rear end which i think makes it possible to drive more than 65?
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:29 PM   #7
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lol,dead forum
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:52 PM   #8
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i cut off all the ignition interlock circuit breakers at both rear doors,there were 6 of them,

They were breakers, like breakers in an electrical panel? I am not familiar with an ignition interlock, could you describe it's function, and/or post a picture?

then i cut off assuming power cable(it was hooked to secondary battery straight) for wheelchair lift(which is taken off too)

Are you saying you cut the feed cable attached to the panel with the breakers in it? Where is this secondary battery located?

and there also were 2 cables white and black thin ones,white was connected to circ.breaker and had extension to another 4 of them then extended further to *big block with tons of fuses,wires etc* black one connected at wheelchair motor circuit breaker.

These two white and black wires were fed along with the feed cable to the panel? The white cable was pigtailed to 4 other breakers, which then fed into a fuse block? All of this is taking place at the rear door, correct?


also both black and white cable came all the way underneath of steering wheel into fuse box and they splitted from there(2 white,2 black)which i couldnt where it lead.

Those two black and white wires then fed to the front of the bus, under the steering wheel and were landed in a fuse box, right? From there, 4 wires, 2 black and 2 white fed to an unknown location?


PS. Forgot to say,vehicle started first time after i used another *full* battery ,but after cutting some wires gauge just went down in like 10 secs from normal to 0,im assuming some short somewhere? or bad alternator diode ?

Immediately after cutting all of this, would the bus start?
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:09 PM   #9
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i was able to remove all the extra cables,now vehicle looks stock,except i ignition switch wont crank starter,in pre-start turn it lights up,pumping fuel but wont crank,i traced voltage with my friend and it doesnt feed 12v when u tryin to start,fender solenoid was replaced,starter replaced,i can start it thru straight battery to small red wire on starter and it run good.but no ignition from key start.i think i just make push-button start from that.
other issue is tail lights,have trouble to finding original chassis tail lights wiring but found trailer one's and assuming i just run them.
third issue is speed limiter is set to 65 or so.i called local guy and read online looks like i can just reflash computer and can run 75 especially considering that i replaced tires also to 235/85/16 fromd 225/75/16
PS. theres some vampire drain if i leave battery connected(when all bus **** was in it,it would drain in less than a night,now in stock it still drains but much slower.).what it couldbe ?
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:16 PM   #10
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also i changed all calipers,rotors,pads with brand new and theyr too tight ,u can barely spin it,i lubed everything as per instructions,but couldnt manage to bleed properly or maybe i did it right,idk what to say,bus goes and stops very good but after a mile of driving around the block rotors are hot.
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:35 PM   #11
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So the issue is in the ignition then. If you're gonna bypass it with a push button start, I would make sure to hide it.

It sounds like your vampire drain is related to you hacking out those wires. Trace them all back and make sure they're terminated properly. Something is drawing power. I would voltage test each one of them with the ignition key in your pocket. Hopefully you'll be able to find out what's killing your battery.
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Old 04-22-2017, 01:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGZ91 View Post
also i changed all calipers,rotors,pads with brand new and theyr too tight ,u can barely spin it,i lubed everything as per instructions,but couldnt manage to bleed properly or maybe i did it right,idk what to say,bus goes and stops very good but after a mile of driving around the block rotors are hot.
If you can't spin the tires by hand, don't drive the bus. Your brakes will fail sooner than later and you'll be driving around massive amount of weight that could easily kill someone.

Can you not spin either tire freely? I would take it all apart and do it again honestly.
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:34 PM   #13
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I just lifted truck bothaxles and seems wheels got freedom
The only issue leftover is I can't figure out where lights harness goes ,tried to match with e350 ,bus doesn't have same colors as 350 for tail nor it does have bunch of wires ,but there's also trailer (I guess) beneath frame with 2 round shaped connectors,how do I connect thru them? Ty guys.
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:41 PM   #14
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I'll be honest man, without a wiring diagram or being there in person, it's extremely difficult to figure out how a circuit is ran.

If I were you I'd focus on finding the wiring diagrams online first.
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:00 PM   #15
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part of it is you are dealing with Ford wiring and whatever the Bluebird uses.. you may be able to get the bluebird wiring on Bluebird Vantage.. get your VIN and look up your bus.. if you get the body wiring circuits then you can match to the E350 circuit and approximate what went where.
-Christopher
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:14 PM   #16
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thanks guys for respond,i checked out backthen bluebird vantage thru vin and there was whole thing but i cut all the extra **** out of bus and now it has stock harnesses there some empty sockets as ya see,i think i take alook online again.
back to speed limiter,is it limited by computer ?do i need to use some ts chips or any shop with programmer can remove it without buying those chips so i can drive 75 ?
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:16 PM   #17
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I only know on the Navistar version which ios a simple program change... seems the ford garage could do it easily.. im not sure if an aftermarket programmer handles the speed limiter or not.. thats a quetion for the ford forums..

-Christopher
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Old 04-22-2017, 08:21 PM   #18
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thank u cadillackid ,appreciate.i will do research
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:12 PM   #19
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Hi guys,yellow is bus harness and it doesn't have black pigtail only grey to connect taillights harness(I brought from junkyard),white van has both black and grey.And I cut off digital trans range sensor wire which was connected to the busbox rofl.whre to find that black pigtail and which wires should I use?
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:34 PM   #20
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I'll keep update in case someone will face same **** in future
Got all but back up wire have power so,both relay and fuse ok,based on other guys thread I might go check that "pressure switch" in trans.
Also new problem showed up ,truck can't go,dying after few meters of driving ,I feel like it doesn't get fuel.Then starts back in 15 sec ,died twice during uphill in driveway ,no power ,I read about PCM,fuel tank etc,but I'm pretty sure it's because I cut some wires
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