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06-19-2021, 02:03 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Freezer Refrigerator 12 or 110 mode
To power my freezer/refrigerator i can use the 12 volt power cord or 110 volt cord. My 2000 watt inverter is wired directly to the battery. 12 volts will come from the load side of my solar controller.
Which mode is best? I thought get the thing cold with 110v, switch to 12 to maintain.
Which one would draw less over time? Either way the solar is continuously charging the battery.
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06-19-2021, 06:43 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Usually 12V is native, mains less efficient.
Doubly so going through an inverter then back again
But you can just get a "Watt's Up" coulomb counting wattmeter for each circuit type and test yourself, keeping as many variables constant as possible.
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06-19-2021, 10:33 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 784
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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I'm assuming you have a chest unit (either freezer, refrigerator or dual zone).
When using 12v direct from the battery, you'll pull higher amps, and essentially the same amount of wattage (v*a = w).
If you use 110v shore/generator power, you'll use lower amps, but overall the same amount of wattage.
If you use 110v through the inverter, you'll use overall more wattage because you loose some efficiency going through the inverter.
As mentioned in the previous post, you can test the draw each method uses.
I've gone through this scenario many times myself. I still haven't bought a refrigeration unit, and I'm still tossing it around.
I think my solution is going to be:
3000w inverter/charger
700-1000w solar panel
Batteries...not sure how many, definitely 250ah minimum, maybe more.
3750w inverter generator with remote start
I'm somewhat balancing my electrical needs with overlapping shore/generator and solar.
I'm planning on running my generator during the day when its the hottest. By running the generator, I will be able to run my mini-split (pretty sure that's how I'm going) and my refrigerator.
During the cooler times of the days, and generally when generators are frowned upon (disturbing the peace), I will then have fully charged batteries (even on cloudy/rainy days).
Hope this helps.
__________________
Steve
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06-20-2021, 09:12 AM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
I'm assuming you have a chest unit (either freezer, refrigerator or dual zone).
When using 12v direct from the battery, you'll pull higher amps, and essentially the same amount of wattage (v*a = w).
If you use 110v shore/generator power, you'll use lower amps, but overall the same amount of wattage.
If you use 110v through the inverter, you'll use overall more wattage because you loose some efficiency going through the inverter.
As mentioned in the previous post, you can test the draw each method uses.
I've gone through this scenario many times myself. I still haven't bought a refrigeration unit, and I'm still tossing it around.
I think my solution is going to be:
3000w inverter/charger
700-1000w solar panel
Batteries...not sure how many, definitely 250ah minimum, maybe more.
3750w inverter generator with remote start
I'm somewhat balancing my electrical needs with overlapping shore/generator and solar.
I'm planning on running my generator during the day when its the hottest. By running the generator, I will be able to run my mini-split (pretty sure that's how I'm going) and my refrigerator.
During the cooler times of the days, and generally when generators are frowned upon (disturbing the peace), I will then have fully charged batteries (even on cloudy/rainy days).
Hope this helps.
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Thanks Steve, I agree with all you say.
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06-22-2021, 09:42 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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06-23-2021, 11:23 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 784
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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Damn, nice unit!
I can't read the brand from the picture. Will you send me the brand and model number, please?
Have you used it much yet? If so, what are your pros and cons of the unit?
__________________
Steve
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06-23-2021, 12:10 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
Damn, nice unit!
I can't read the brand from the picture. Will you send me the brand and model number, please?
Have you used it much yet? If so, what are your pros and cons of the unit?
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I got it at Home Depot for $199. It's a Kalamera. It feels solid and high-quality. The 12 volt and 110 volt cords are high-quality. I have it set at 38 degrees, it comes on at 41 degrees and cools down to 38 degrees in a few minutes. I can't see why I would spend four or five $600 or more on a similar product. I have 100 watt solar panel. On a cloudy day my voltage is 12.7, this fridge draws it down to 12.5. Right back up to full charge. It Cycles about every 5 or 7 minutes.
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06-23-2021, 12:48 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,075
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
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Those are out of stock in my neck of the woods, easy to see why.
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06-23-2021, 03:13 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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yes crazy cheap
I wonder who makes it, what compressor they use
If Indel-B most likely will last a while.
Cheap enough to buy a few so you have spare parts when they fail
that is always the Achilles's heel of no-name units.
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06-23-2021, 04:38 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
yes crazy cheap
I wonder who makes it, what compressor they use
If Indel-B most likely will last a while.
Cheap enough to buy a few so you have spare parts when they fail
that is always the Achilles's heel of no-name units.
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Yes, that's what we all said about the diesel heaters too and they've proved themselves to be a Fairly reliable unit just like the pricey ones.
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06-23-2021, 04:44 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Yes, DIY repairs the only way, spare parts to tough issue need to stock up yourself by buying at least two at a time.
I have heard for the Espar clones, replacing those parts that are interchangeable
with the better quality original ones is a good strategy for improving reliability and extending their lifespan.
Haven't heard of that being the case with fridges though.
The old school ones without any electronics at all would be ideal IMO but getting very rare.
I loathe the modern mentality of "just buy new" disposable stuff. . .
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06-23-2021, 05:20 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Double check the SKU if you doubt me
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06-23-2021, 07:23 PM
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#14
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,075
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
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There's actually 2 models listed at HD. One is $199 and the other, slightly larger one, is $217. They're out of stock around me and there's no backorder option. I'd buy 2 today if I could.
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06-24-2021, 11:08 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Was not doubting
crazy cheap is a good thing!
great score, thanks for the report
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06-26-2021, 04:44 PM
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#16
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 15
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12 volt is far more efficient!
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06-30-2021, 01:17 PM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Baja often, Oregon frequently
Posts: 427
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Our hot little grubbies...
Chassis: Ford CF8000 ExpeditionVehicle
Engine: Cummins 505ci mechanical
Rated Cap: Five Heelers
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2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Summers up rough logging tracks to remote mountain lakes, winters on isolated Baja beaches.
.
With nearly two decades full-time live-aboard, we are rarely more than a few minutes from a grocery, so we never saw a need for a fridge.
.
A couple-three years ago, our caravan chums moved to a sailboat, so they offered us their SnoMaster 61qt dual-zone.
Shiny!
.
Within a few days, we noticed it turned into a horizontal place to accumulate stuff.
We turned it into the equivalent of a NordicTrack in the bedroom corner used as a clothes-rack.
Not shiny...
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06-30-2021, 05:43 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LargeMargeInBaja
2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Summers up rough logging tracks to remote mountain lakes, winters on isolated Baja beaches.
.
With nearly two decades full-time live-aboard, we are rarely more than a few minutes from a grocery, so we never saw a need for a fridge.
.
A couple-three years ago, our caravan chums moved to a sailboat, so they offered us their SnoMaster 61qt dual-zone.
Shiny!
.
Within a few days, we noticed it turned into a horizontal place to accumulate stuff.
We turned it into the equivalent of a NordicTrack in the bedroom corner used as a clothes-rack.
Not shiny...
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The fewer grocery stores or gas station convenience stores i have to go to the better.
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06-30-2021, 05:44 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddcam
12 volt is far more efficient!
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It's obvious to me now.
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07-01-2021, 02:21 PM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 784
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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I finally pulled the trigger and went for a 12v/11v Whytner 95qt, 3.18cuft, chest freezer.
It pulls 5.5A/12v and based on rough averages, will use about 44ah (based on 8 hours of compressor time per day).
It's taller than wide, but I'm okay with that as I will add an insulated horizontal door at the height of the compressor shelf and make that my frozen section, and keep the upper portion around 38 degrees.
It was $742 total, and only has a 1 year warranty. Amazing how Whytner wants to claim how great they are but only provide a 1 year warranty.
It's no where near the deal the OP got, but I did a lot of searching, and this I would consider a fair price.
__________________
Steve
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