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Old 04-20-2021, 01:44 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Good change over switch?

I'm looking for a good manual change over switch for use when switching from inverter power to shore power.

Any recommendations?

30 Amp shore power
2000watt Inverter (4000 watt surge)
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:10 AM   #2
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Year: 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobOfYork View Post
I'm looking for a good manual change over switch for use when switching from inverter power to shore power.

Any recommendations?

30 Amp shore power
2000watt Inverter (4000 watt surge)
I plan on using a marine transfer switch, something like this...
About this item
  • This fits your .


  • Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
  • Diameter: 5.25"
  • Polycarbonate body with brass terminals
  • For use with 6 to 50 volt marine electrical systems
  • Capacity - 250 AMPS Continuous, 360 AMPS 5 Mins. Intermittent
  • Terminal Stud Size: 5/16"
$36 bucks on Amazon...
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File Type: jpg marine tranfer switch.jpg (25.1 KB, 8 views)
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:34 AM   #3
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ewo1, I think the OP wants a transfer switch for AC power, not a battery selector.

OP, some inverters come with a transfer switch/charger built in. If you haven't looked at these options I highly recommend it (especially the Victron Multiplus series).

If you're settled on which inverter you're getting, what kind of transfer process were you hoping for- something automatic (for example, switching automatically upon plugging in) or manual (plugged in or not, you choose which source to use)?

I use a manual changeover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N119RY9

Mine is 4 pole for 120V/240V, if you want something similar for 120V only a 3 pole version will work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N11925K


The way I have it setup,

  • '0' the AC panel is disconnected from power
  • '1' the AC panel is connected to inverter
  • '2' the AC panel is connected to shore.

Installed mine in the side of a PVC box ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kraloy-6-in...Box/5001212789 ) using a simple hole saw so that I didn't have exposed connections/terminals that hands could touch. Wires enter the box using conduit fittings.

My new inverter has a built-in automatic transfer switch, so I'm likely to use that when I upgrade.
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazetsukai View Post
ewo1, I think the OP wants a transfer switch for AC power, not a battery selector.

OP, some inverters come with a transfer switch/charger built in. If you haven't looked at these options I highly recommend it (especially the Victron Multiplus series).

If you're settled on which inverter you're getting, what kind of transfer process were you hoping for- something automatic (for example, switching automatically upon plugging in) or manual (plugged in or not, you choose which source to use)?

I use a manual changeover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N119RY9

Mine is 4 pole for 120V/240V, if you want something similar for 120V only a 3 pole version will work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N11925K


The way I have it setup,

  • '0' the AC panel is disconnected from power
  • '1' the AC panel is connected to inverter
  • '2' the AC panel is connected to shore.

Installed mine in the side of a PVC box ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kraloy-6-in...Box/5001212789 ) using a simple hole saw so that I didn't have exposed connections/terminals that hands could touch. Wires enter the box using conduit fittings.

My new inverter has a built-in automatic transfer switch, so I'm likely to use that when I upgrade.

My bad, I mistunderstood... pushing 60, not mph.... wonder what else is gonna go......
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:30 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Yes I am looking for something manual to just switch between shore power and the inverter AC.

That manual switch looks like exactly what I need. Thank you.
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:30 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
My bad, I mistunderstood... pushing 60, not mph.... wonder what else is gonna go......
Sorry about that. I should have mentioned it was for AC.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:36 PM   #7
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I bought a GoPower TS-30 automatic transfer switch for 80 bucks from Amazon. I also bought the 32A version of the rotary switch described above for twenty bucks.
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:52 PM   #8
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RobOfYork,

I plan to use a 12v/ 110v hybrid breaker box I salvaged from an 80s Winnebago LeSharo. It has a 30 amp 110 plug for shore power hookup and a built in 35 amp charger for the 12 volt batteries.
Anyway for 110 power the inverter, generator and shore power will feed the box at the same place (on the main breaker in the box). On a separate panel Iíll mount 3 independent breakers, one for inverter, generator and shore power. (Only the hot wire will be controlled here. After exiting the breakers, the wires from these will connect together using a power lug insulated by heat shrink wrap and go to the main box). Then Iíll select ONE source to feed the box. (if itís not the inverter turn the inverter off first) (if it is the inverter turn the battery charger off in the box).

After reading this I realized it sounds REALLY Complicated (even though itís not) so Iíll draw it up and post it here in a minute.

Good Building!

Jordan
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:08 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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62C3FC7B-D9E8-4F49-BF3F-6963BC0DE0E0.jpg

Sorry mineís not quite as simple as one switch. For household applications they make automated versions for just generator/house power, solar/house power, or a combination of the three, but they cost MEGABUCK$$$. My grannyís cost her near 400 bucks a few years back and, if you think about it, who needs computerized digital automation when you got cool big switches you can throw?
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:38 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mobilehomesteader View Post
RobOfYork,

I plan to use a 12v/ 110v hybrid breaker box I salvaged from an 80s Winnebago LeSharo. It has a 30 amp 110 plug for shore power hookup and a built in 35 amp charger for the 12 volt batteries.
Anyway for 110 power the inverter, generator and shore power will feed the box at the same place (on the main breaker in the box). On a separate panel Iíll mount 3 independent breakers, one for inverter, generator and shore power. (Only the hot wire will be controlled here. After exiting the breakers, the wires from these will connect together using a power lug insulated by heat shrink wrap and go to the main box). Then Iíll select ONE source to feed the box. (if itís not the inverter turn the inverter off first) (if it is the inverter turn the battery charger off in the box).

After reading this I realized it sounds REALLY Complicated (even though itís not) so Iíll draw it up and post it here in a minute.

Good Building!

Jordan
I think I get your drift. Each power supply-generator, shore power, inverter must interlock though. If one is on, by design, all the others must be off.

How do you prevent someone from inadvertently leaving on two sources?
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:52 PM   #11
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By the way RobofYork-we hijacked your thread!
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Old 04-20-2021, 08:00 PM   #12
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I like Kazetsukai's suggestion for simplicity: buy an inverter with a power cord, so when shore power is applied everything runs through a single power source.

I wasn't able to find a reasonably priced inverter with the autochangeover feature, so I took a more complex route-one that I hope gives me greater energy efficiency. Read on for other design considerations if you are still working on your switching plan.

I have 30 amps shore power that comes into a panel, then from there a branch circuit feeds a GoPower TS-30 Transfer Switch. The switch feeds all house receptacles. The other power source is a 2K Watt inverter. Simple, so far.

I have two, possibly three other devices to plug in AHEAD of the transfer switch and are not powered unless there is shore power present:
  • The fridge inverter (1.2K Watts) which is one of those inverters Kazetsukai mentions that has it's own power plug and automagically switches when shore power is present. This can safely bypass the autotransfer switch.
  • a small 110 VAC DC power supply for the water pump, diesel heater and lights. All of these are all DC devices that switch between battery and the DC power supply via relays. Normally closed: battery power.
  • possibly, a 110 VAC propane water heater

The fridge inverter can't plug in downstream of the autotransfer because it would always sense power from the receptacle and never switch to battery (all receptacles are 'always on, either through the big inverter or shore power).

The DC power supply only powers up with shore power. The aforementioned relay determines whether DC power comes from the battery or the power supply.

The water heater will plug in downstream from the autotransfer for now. But I want to be able to turn off the big inverter when boondocking, and this is the only device that MUST run off the big inverter when boondocking. Not because of power needs, but rather, because it is the only other 110 VAC device other than the fridge, and I don't have another dedicated inverter. I'm trying to figure out how to power the water heater with a smaller 500 watt inverter. I have an AC A/B switch, so I could just wire it in and do it manually but would prefer to put in a circuit to cut over to the little inverter from house receptacle, something automatic but fail safe. Haven't worked out the design fully so who knows what I'll end up with.

Yeah, I'm in deep with this design--too much fun.
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:05 PM   #13
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Rucker, fridge-dedicated inverters are also a cool idea I've seen solve some problems.


One of the ways to get around the "chicken and egg problem" (don't charge the batteries with the inverter) is to place the battery charger on a shore-dedicated breaker system. This can be as simple as a single DIN rail breaker, DIN distribution box and DIN outlet-

https://www.amazon.com/VictorsHome-M.../dp/B07YDY55CK
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Transp.../dp/B07GST347D
https://www.amazon.com/IMACP01-Groun.../dp/B00MO818IY

This would be upstream of the transfer switch on the shore power side.


I recommend using an appropriate surge protection device wired inline just after your shore inlet to protect from faulty shore pedestals.
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Old 04-21-2021, 01:45 AM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
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By the way RobofYork-we hijacked your thread!
No problem at all. I'm getting some useful info from the hijack.
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Old 04-23-2021, 06:39 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucker View Post
I think I get your drift. Each power supply-generator, shore power, inverter must interlock though. If one is on, by design, all the others must be off.

How do you prevent someone from inadvertently leaving on two sources?
Yeah... About that...
Hopefully the only someone(s) that know what those breakers do wonít flip them unless I ask them to. Theyíll be in the inverter closet, and me and my dog will be the only regulars that will deal with that sort of thing. It may even be on a label/sign/writing on the panel too if I feel ambitious.
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Old 05-01-2021, 07:26 PM   #16
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I was looking for something else but this caught my eye:

110V 2P 63A Dual Power Automatic Transfer Switch Dual Power Generator Changeover Switch 50HZ/60HZ with Electronic Instruction Manual https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PG5XXZQ...QXB2XDRVQ1GCYQ


The one I used is here:

VictorsHome Changeover Switch LW28-63 3 Positions 16 Terminals Universal Rotary Cam Selector Latching Switches 690V 63A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N119RY9...KZKJTEE3JR5H1Q

I probably violated some major code but I put it right in my breaker panel, just drilled an out of the way hole. Made life easy.
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Old 05-01-2021, 10:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rffffffff View Post
The one I used is here:

VictorsHome Changeover Switch LW28-63 3 Positions 16 Terminals Universal Rotary Cam Selector Latching Switches 690V 63A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N119RY9...KZKJTEE3JR5H1Q
How do you wire that? I take it you have to connect pairs of terminals together so you have 3 pairs of 2 wires coming from the switch to the breaker panel line in?

Also, why did you use a 16 terminal instead of a 12?
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:13 PM   #18
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I wired hot neutral and ground to the switch, only 9 terminals if I recall correctly. I may have linked the wrong switch of there are more.

Essentially three wires in from generator (position 1), three wires in from inverter (position 2) and three wires out to panel (common), plus an add on for the battery charger which was connected only to the generator wiring so it canít connect to the inverter power.

Let me know if that makes sense
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobOfYork View Post
How do you wire that? I take it you have to connect pairs of terminals together so you have 3 pairs of 2 wires coming from the switch to the breaker panel line in?

Also, why did you use a 16 terminal instead of a 12?

This is the one i actually used, looks the same but different.

Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IZ5ZFYC...WSNNPEHGAFW7M3

Seeing the diagram I must have just put jumper wires between two sets of terminals so that I didnít need to run two wires to the panel. I can figure that out again if itís helpful.
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Old 05-06-2021, 12:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by rffffffff View Post
This is the one i actually used, looks the same but different.

Baomain Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-63 660V 63A 3 Position 3 Phase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IZ5ZFYC...WSNNPEHGAFW7M3

Seeing the diagram I must have just put jumper wires between two sets of terminals so that I didnít need to run two wires to the panel. I can figure that out again if itís helpful.
Thanks. It does seem that the 2 input 1 output change over switch simply does not exist.

I know I can't find one.
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