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Old 02-26-2020, 06:52 PM   #1
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Ground Wire

Is It Ok To Ground Wires To ANY Metal Surface Of The Bus Or Does It HAVE To Be The Chassis? I Was Thinking Of Just Drilling A Hole Through The Subfloor With A Self Tapping Screw.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:55 PM   #2
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You should have more surface area. That’s like just my opinion man. Drill a hole, route to the chassis, sand to bear metal and install a big fat bolt

Bear metal hehehehehehe
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:10 PM   #3
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I guess I should ask what’s it for?
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:16 AM   #4
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For anything expensive, important, or high current

I run the same gauge wires in a pair to complete the full return circuit back to the power source.

I only trust chassis common for returns on cheap, unimportant and low current loads.
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Old 02-27-2020, 09:03 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by NfiniteMile View Post
Is It Ok To Ground Wires To ANY Metal Surface Of The Bus Or Does It HAVE To Be The Chassis? I Was Thinking Of Just Drilling A Hole Through The Subfloor With A Self Tapping Screw.
AC electric or dc electric?

What are you powering and how many watts does it consume?
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Old 02-27-2020, 11:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
For anything expensive, important, or high current
Can I get your rationale on this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
I only trust chassis common for returns on cheap, unimportant and low current loads.
Now I don't do any direct chassis common connections on my subpanels- in all those places I've ran two wire DC. But I do have my main negative bus bar connected to chassis.


I have AC ground to chassis (for GFI protection), 24V solar negative to chassis, and bus bank negative to chassis. Most of the electrical noise seems to come from 12v appliances on the main DC fuse panel (and its in no short supply- I had to switch to a digital audio amplifier).
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:30 PM   #7
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I'm not talking about **also** tying the negative return busses etc into chassis common as a reference in multiple locations, that's fine.

Just not relying on chassis paths **as** the negative return for critical circuits
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct View Post
For anything expensive, important, or high current

I run the same gauge wires in a pair to complete the full return circuit back to the power source.

I only trust chassis common for returns on cheap, unimportant and low current loads.
I have done it this way too, but it is important to note that return trip distance should be used when calculating wire size.

If its 20' from the panel to the appliance, then use 40' on the chart to get the proper wire size for the anticipated amp draw. This is how its done in the marine world as chassis grounds aren't an option. They also have excellent insulated 2 conductor stranded cables as well.
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:33 PM   #9
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When I replied I was thinking battery bank because I got that on the brain.

I’m pretty sure it’s common practice to run grounds back to a main bus to make troubleshooting easier.

Of course if you have really big wires to run you can save some money by using the chassis.
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Old 02-27-2020, 01:41 PM   #10
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You just need good connections, I think. This is why I never go from appliance directly to chassis, I go from appliance to a fuse panel with negative, and the fuse panel negative has a beefy cable going to a solid, clean, reliable contact point on either the chassis or cabin. Its much easier to get it right once, the first time.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:20 PM   #11
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Between the House bank (or whatever source) and the distribution points is of course most critical and highest current.

And yes wire sizing need actual RT distance.

BSS Circuit Wizard is excellent.
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Old 03-08-2020, 08:16 AM   #12
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Anybody willing or able to post some pictures of how their ground to chassis looks or is set up? I’m pretty sure I get it, but That’d be really helpful for us visual learners out there.
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Old 03-08-2020, 09:36 AM   #13
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I've got a 2 AWG battery cable bolted to one of the bolt holes for the chair rail.. Easy peasy.
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Old 03-08-2020, 01:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy View Post
I have done it this way too, but it is important to note that return trip distance should be used when calculating wire size.

If its 20' from the panel to the appliance, then use 40' on the chart to get the proper wire size for the anticipated amp draw. This is how its done in the marine world as chassis grounds aren't an option. They also have excellent insulated 2 conductor stranded cables as well.
What chart are you referring to?
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Old 03-08-2020, 01:37 PM   #15
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Chart?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie_McCoy View Post
I have done it this way too, but it is important to note that return trip distance should be used when calculating wire size.

If its 20' from the panel to the appliance, then use 40' on the chart to get the proper wire size for the anticipated amp draw. This is how its done in the marine world as chassis grounds aren't an option. They also have excellent insulated 2 conductor stranded cables as well.
What chart are you referring to?
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Old 03-08-2020, 05:21 PM   #16
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Best to use Blue Sea Circuit Wizard app.
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Old 03-08-2020, 09:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydawg3000 View Post
Anybody willing or able to post some pictures of how their ground to chassis looks or is set up? Im pretty sure I get it, but Thatd be really helpful for us visual learners out there.
Here is the only shot I have of the grounding wires. Trace the bright green wire to the left and you will see the grounding lugs used to ground everything to the chassis.


20181107_170704 DC Wiring - Underside.jpg
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