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Old 01-28-2021, 01:03 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Question Grounding Confirmation

Hello all,

I am almost done with my electrical system and have been reading up on the grounding situation...trying to avoid hot skin and blowing things up, etc. I have been reading on the No Shock zone and a few threads but just wanted to triple check before energizing anything.

Shore power runs into my inverter, 10/3, and 10/3 runs out of the inverter into the panel.
From what I am gathering, since this is acting as my main panel, this is where I would bond the grounds and the neutrals. Correct??? If so, is there any specific way that this should be done...?

The panel will be ground to the body/frame. Ground inside panel will be attached to the lug opposite the white neutral.

Hopefully not too bad for a carpenter.

Please let me know what you guys think...

Thanks
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Old 01-28-2021, 03:13 PM   #2
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No...If I understand what you plan to do, that does not sound right. The neutral and ground should be completely separate and not bonded within the RV's panel. An RV should be treated as a sub-panel not a main panel. The bonding should happen within the source of the AC power...in your case, the shore power at the pedestal.
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Old 01-28-2021, 03:26 PM   #3
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And I will add, you have to check your inverter. Some are bonded and some are not. They generally give instructions on how to set it up. Same with your generator if you have one. Don't join the resistance and be forced to go under ground.
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Old 01-28-2021, 03:30 PM   #4
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Listen to rossvtaylor & s2mikon.

Edited: For my own simplification.
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Old 01-28-2021, 03:33 PM   #5
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If I look at the picture it looks like the neutral is floating now. So a ground bar needs to be added to the box and be bonded to the chassis.
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Old 01-28-2021, 05:46 PM   #6
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i would suggest a bigger box and hard crimp ring terminals on the lugs?
did you run hard wire or stranded wire? for me.
its hard to tell in the picture ?
solid wire is fine in a house but it will wear out in a moving/vibrating/bouncing/secured to a twisting body type situation.
wire is prefered.
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Old 01-28-2021, 10:50 PM   #7
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Am I missing something? Why is shore power running to the inverter? Doesnít the inverter provide 120 volt AC from 12 volt DC ?
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Old 01-28-2021, 11:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatman View Post
Am I missing something? Why is shore power running to the inverter? Doesnít the inverter provide 120 volt AC from 12 volt DC ?
I presumed it was an inverter with a transfer switch...like a grid-tied...but you ask a good question. We should get more info to help him make his system safe.
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:08 AM   #9
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Hello,

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, my inverter is a grid tied style... https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/pr...charger-ms-pae

So basically it is set up as follows:

Solar/Shore power to inverter, inverter out to DC and AC.

The inverter is grounded on a dedicated post direct to bus. There are two AC grounding posts inside the inverter.

The DC system is grounded directly to bus as well.

As far as I have gathered, the AC panel will be grounded to the bus directly so still working out where the ground/neutral bond will be. My buddy who owns a solar company helped me build the solar set up and suggested that I would be bonding in the AC panel but he is not fully immersed in the RV/mobile world so I am checking with gurus.

Please let me know if you have any more questions on the set up. I am trying to get the electrical buttoned up and this is the last step!

Thanks so much for the help and advice!
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:43 AM   #10
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Ok Ross you presumed, and I assumed. I know how that is spelled! It was one of those fancy inverters that had a transfer switch. battery charger and coffee grinder built in. Note to self. Don't assume. But Phatman caught it. Kudo's. We do need more information. If this was not so important to a safe build we could just put it together and if sparks don't fly we're done. But this is not the case. I think a lot of the confusion on neutral bonding vs floating is because we are still thinking in dc mode because we are working on a vehicle. But on a rubber tired vehicle it is very important that we get it right. So docmurphy please post back and give us more information. We want you and your passengers to be safe. More people are killed with 120 volt systems than anything else. So do not join the resistance and be forced to go underground.
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:49 AM   #11
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Haha - yes, s2mikon - I did some "uming" and whether it was the pres or the ass type, I should have avoided the uming and asked to clarify. You're exactly right...it's too important to ume.
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:55 AM   #12
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Does this forum have a place for stickies? We need some diagrams / drawings as to just how to properly connect the ac system so we won't join the resistance and be forced underground.
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:20 AM   #13
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I posted a reply earlier but I have not seen it populate the page....something about mods had to view it first...?

I do have one of those fancy inverters that are designed for grid tie on a solar set up. This is my first time dipping a toe into this realm and my buddy who introduced me to the set up helped me acquire all the gear. I assumed this was how most people were setting up their solar/shore electrical.

If my post from earlier doesnt show back up then Ill type it all out again.

This is my inverter

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/pr...charger-ms-pae
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:53 AM   #14
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Okay, now I’m going to show my ignorance !! What is a sticky? I always thought that was when the PB&J dripped on your shirt. If we have 3 electricians trying to help, the sparks are certain to fly. Hahahahaha!!
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:06 AM   #15
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I have been told that there are only 2 kinds of electricians, those that have been shocked and those that are liars.
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:11 AM   #16
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Absolutely !! At one time, the biggest accidental deaths for electricians was working at home. Go figure !! I know I had my fair share of them. Had 480 put me in the hospital once. Didn’t like it.
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Old 01-29-2021, 01:17 PM   #17
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docmurphy, did your post have an attachment?
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Old 01-29-2021, 02:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docmurphy View Post
.....Please let me know what you guys think...

Thanks


I deleted my first reply because I don't want to sound discouraging. If you provide more info we may be able to better help. The inverter documentation as written, a picture of the line (supply), the more the better.

In the pic there are the issues already mentioned.
No ground bar, unterminated neutral & ground, bonding done at main breaker, etc.

The 'sub panel' itself, is it a disconnect? 30a or 50a?

Looks like a surface mount box, am I correct?

Is the box currently being wired, but not yet mounted?
-Maybe just a dry/test fit.

The bottom fed, line side 'feeder' is 10/3 romex,
will it stay exposed/unprotected?

The four (4), top fed, load side circuits:
Are they all 4 pushed thru the same 1" connector?
What kind of connector is used?
Those four romex look all the same,,
are they all 14/2 or 12/2? ok if 12.
You have twin 15a and 20a brkrs installed on, ?
What is the rated amp of the jaw/bus under each breaker?

How are you physically protecting the load wires?

Is the line side, suplly: split phase or same phase run parallel using single neutral?

Line side is protected with one 30a 2 pole breaker?

Help us help you. Any additional info on what you're intending to use this as, I'm sure we can help as a group..
This is not a leaky sh_t pipe or bad tranny. Its odorless, colorless, silent, deadly.

Maybe it's fine, easy to find out using shoeless mammals, under 100 lbs
It all works great!
.....until it won't STOP
and you cant get loose.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:27 PM   #19
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Not sure if this will post bc I have posted 2-3 times and its not in the thread...

This is a dry run to figure things out before the final runs go in.

I am going to try to answer all of the questions as best I can after I get the kids in bed. I hope my other replies show up in the meantime!
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:28 PM   #20
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I just saw your post about getting the kids to bed.
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