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03-23-2018, 08:15 PM
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#1
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,403
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Has anyone tried running a mini-split on an inverter generator?
Hey Everyone,
I know that the inverter type generators such as the Honda EU2000i are quite popular and I have seen several members installing the Pioneer mini-split's.
Has anyone here run their mini-split from one of the inverter style generators?
I was reading something about the Honda having issues with certain types of loads. I don't recall what they were trying to run. It was something odd. A contractor style generator would run it but the Honda freeked out.
It occurred to me that the electronics in the mini-split are a whole lot different than your typical roof a/c and I should probably verify that they will play together before spending the $$
Thanks.
S.
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03-23-2018, 08:27 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,458
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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I have a Champion inverter generator and can run a mini split.
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03-23-2018, 10:21 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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I have a champion 3100/2800 inverter and it runs my 2x 1 ton mini splits easily.
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03-24-2018, 08:52 AM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,971
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I havent had any issues with a honda running electronics... havent run a mini split but i have run the Climax portable unit which is a mini-split inverter style compressor in a portable unit package and it runs just fine, phone chargers, macbook pro chargers and even an APC sine-wave battery back-up (testing running a server rack) all run fine on. the eu2000i,
I havent tried running any high-load compressor items like a regular A/C, frig, or a high-start-current motor like a shop-vac etc on it..
-Christopher
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03-24-2018, 10:52 AM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,403
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Thanks for the input.
Looks like I have nothing to worry about.
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03-24-2018, 11:16 AM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I load tested my Honda 3000 (inverter) genny with my 8000 btu window unit. The A/C ran full blast without the Honda ever coming off "Economy Idle".
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03-24-2018, 11:30 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,403
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I load tested my Honda 3000 (inverter) genny with my 8000 btu window unit. The A/C ran full blast without the Honda ever coming off "Economy Idle".
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I have run roof a/c's from a Honda EU3000i with no issue. The inverter mini-splits are a little different animal and I wanted to check with the community before I start spending $$.
Thanks again.
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03-24-2018, 11:43 AM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Maybe someone else can chime in, but my understanding of the mini-splits is that they have a much lower start-up load and also draw less juice when running than conventional units. Cadillac can probably tell you more.
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03-24-2018, 12:10 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,403
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Maybe someone else can chime in, but my understanding of the mini-splits is that they have a much lower start-up load and also draw less juice when running than conventional units. Cadillac can probably tell you more.
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I am of the same understanding. That is on of the reasons I am going mini-split and not roof air.
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03-24-2018, 01:06 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Maybe someone else can chime in, but my understanding of the mini-splits is that they have a much lower start-up load and also draw less juice when running than conventional units. Cadillac can probably tell you more.
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I have real time monitored my wattage draw with my 12000 btu pioneers. It creeps up from zero over a couple minutes. I’ve never really seen them go past about 2000 W total with both units running. I think they are spec’d to draw up to 1200 per unit but I haven’t seen it. Maybe that’s when you hit the turbo button.
Once the initial heat or cool target is reached it seems like they level out to about 650 W each or 1300 total. Depends on weather etc.
I’ve run 1 off my inverter while driving without trouble.
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03-24-2018, 01:09 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Good info...thanks for sharing.
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03-24-2018, 02:00 PM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 21
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The issue you speak of for the Honda, is that the neutral and ground are isolated. Contractor generators and the commercial system, they are not. The fix is to make a jumper out of a plug to connect the neutral and ground at the generator. Make sure not to jump the wrong terminal, it would be detrimental to your system.
I learned this from a book on RV wiring and how to NOT electrocute yourself with metal skinned campers.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
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03-24-2018, 02:17 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,403
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07
I have real time monitored my wattage draw with my 12000 btu pioneers. It creeps up from zero over a couple minutes. I’ve never really seen them go past about 2000 W total with both units running. I think they are spec’d to draw up to 1200 per unit but I haven’t seen it. Maybe that’s when you hit the turbo button.
Once the initial heat or cool target is reached it seems like they level out to about 650 W each or 1300 total. Depends on weather etc.
I’ve run 1 off my inverter while driving without trouble.
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Awesome information!
Thank you for sharing that.
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