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03-14-2017, 09:20 AM
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#101
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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ugh my roof hatch leaks some too.. I either need to change it or cover it.. the UV light and decidedlt over-tightened screws on plastic causes them to crack around the screw holes.. I sealed mine up some and its much better but i still get a few drops of water on the floor in a decent rain.. I toss a towel on the floor there and under the dash on my passenger side for big rains.. I need to see your window guy and have my windshield fixed up right..
-Christopher
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03-14-2017, 09:25 AM
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#102
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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theres usually not a fuse for Body components on a bus... there is a rail that is all circuit breakers... you plug in the items you want onto the terminals of the relay bar.. most all the wires are 12 gauge .. and the relays are either 10 or 20 amp.. sometimes theres 2 rails,each controlled by a big round solenoid. one for accessory and one for ignition.. when Accessory is on only the accessory solenoid engages. when ignition is on, the accessory and ignition solenoids engage..
I dont know if this is how EC's bus is, but my bluebird is that way..
we will learn more once we can tear into it together and clean it up..
-Christopher
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03-14-2017, 09:26 AM
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#103
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
ugh my roof hatch leaks some too.. I either need to change it or cover it.. the UV light and decidedlt over-tightened screws on plastic causes them to crack around the screw holes.. I sealed mine up some and its much better but i still get a few drops of water on the floor in a decent rain.. I toss a towel on the floor there and under the dash on my passenger side for big rains.. I need to see your window guy and have my windshield fixed up right..
-Christopher
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Yep. Its First on my to-do list once I get rid of the interlock and buzzers. Will install a roof vent with a fan and rain cover after I rivet a piece of 18ga over the hole from the hatch.
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03-14-2017, 09:29 AM
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#104
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
theres usually not a fuse for Body components on a bus... there is a rail that is all circuit breakers... you plug in the items you want onto the terminals of the relay bar.. most all the wires are 12 gauge .. and the relays are either 10 or 20 amp.. sometimes theres 2 rails,each controlled by a big round solenoid. one for accessory and one for ignition.. when Accessory is on only the accessory solenoid engages. when ignition is on, the accessory and ignition solenoids engage..
I dont know if this is how EC's bus is, but my bluebird is that way..
we will learn more once we can tear into it together and clean it up..
-Christopher
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Yes, this is how mine is set up! there are only a handful of little automotive style fuses on the bus in various places. All those have been checked and are good. There are a ton of little breakers everywhere and a big block of them in the dash in the center with an access panel.
Two big round solenoids on the left side of the box. can hear at least one when I turn the key to acc.
New wiper switch is on the way.
Should I order this sending unit with the money I saved on the switch I found?
MANY 97-15 IC 97-11 INTERNATIONAL MODELS W/15 INCH DEEP TANK FUEL SENDING UNIT | eBay
If that doesn't fix the fuel gauge, I'll replace the gauge itself, I reckon.
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03-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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#105
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
You just may have something there Roadrunner. Yesterday I said I hadn't seen relays involved within any windshield wiper system wiring. And really I haven't.
But I got thinking about this last night as I hate getting beat by a problem like this.
The wiper power source we were not able to determine yet.
So, the whole operation is controlled by the position of the ignition key.
That being "On" or "ACC"depending on one's preference.
So, the "OFF" position of that ignition switch has power to it at all times. That in turn must trigger a relay to power up the wiper fuse wherever that is.
So, I assume that part is working ok by what we have heard from CB.
Your sticking relay comment kind of haunted me from the time I read it.
So I think you are correct and wanted to tell you so as I had my doubts.
The wiper fuse feed has to be hot at all times depending on the key position and this is the only way that can be done.
Make sense?
So CB, forget the tracing and just install the switch you ordered and all should be fine. Except for not knowing where the fuse is at.
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You're a trooper, thanks so much.
Never been so anxious and excited to buy a generic switch!!!
We've got a big trip to South FL planned in a couple months in this bus.
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03-14-2017, 11:17 AM
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#106
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Before spending any or a lot of money on parts, I'd go over the whole grounding system of the bus and clean them up or as many places as you can find a ground point. Grind the rust off the frame etc and clean up the ground cable ends, starting with the battery ground. You will be very surprised at the results as in things that don't seem to work will then work. Not in every case of course but many.
__________________
Question everything!
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03-14-2017, 11:37 AM
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#107
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
Before spending any or a lot of money on parts, I'd go over the whole grounding system of the bus and clean them up or as many places as you can find a ground point. Grind the rust off the frame etc and clean up the ground cable ends, starting with the battery ground. You will be very surprised at the results as in things that don't seem to work will then work. Not in every case of course but many.
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Man I have really looked and EVERY ground is super clean, new looking and not any real rust on anything other than the right rear butt cheek.
Even if the swtich ends up not being the full-fix, I'll at least have the intermittent function working again. That's worth $70 buck to me, especially on a KEEPER!
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03-14-2017, 11:50 AM
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#108
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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looking won't do it man. Take every nut and bolt apart and shine the ground lug to look like new. Maybe even put in new bolts and screws where necessary. You must have bare metal to metal and no rust or paint.
__________________
Question everything!
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03-14-2017, 12:07 PM
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#109
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
looking won't do it man. Take every nut and bolt apart and shine the ground lug to look like new. Maybe even put in new bolts and screws where necessary. You must have bare metal to metal and no rust or paint.
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I'll start in the battery compartment and work my way from there. Sound good?
Its COLD and wet out today, so probably be tomorrow before I get to any of that.
I wanna repaint my battery compartment in the near future, too.
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03-14-2017, 05:38 PM
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#110
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Is there any chance that the strange behavior with respect to the wiper coming on when the washer function on the other switch is activated could be the right behavior? If you only have one washer fluid pump and both sides of the windshield get wet when it's activated, that might be correct. One hell of a Rube Goldberg design, but correct.
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03-14-2017, 05:40 PM
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#111
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox
Is there any chance that the strange behavior with respect to the wiper coming on when the washer function on the other switch is activated could be the right behavior? If you only have one washer fluid pump and both sides of the windshield get wet when it's activated, that might be correct. One hell of a Rube Goldberg design, but correct.
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The switches operate the pump individually. The left side switch squirts the left side windshiled, and vise versa. Only with mine, pushing the right side pump button makes the left wiper come one, but no fluid on the left. just wiping.
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03-14-2017, 05:45 PM
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#112
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
The switches operate the pump individually. The left side switch squirts the left side windshiled, and vise versa. Only with mine, pushing the right side pump button makes the left wiper come one, but no fluid on the left. just wiping.
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Damn! So you either have 2 pumps or EVEN MORE COMPLEXITY of electrically operated valves. Wow.
I've been following this whole thread with interest, sending the best vibes I can along, hoping to hear of a "wiggled this and it's all good now" fix. I've been trying to come up with something more encouraging to say than "sucks to be you", but I'm having difficulty.
Good luck! CK is one smart cookie; progress will be made.
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03-14-2017, 05:48 PM
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#113
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Oh, I'm 100% confident in Chris' abilities!
And I'm gona remain optimistic that the new switch takes care of my wiper issues. Its already on its way.
Just gona leave everything apart for now and let Chris work his magic.
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03-14-2017, 10:10 PM
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#114
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Sounds a b it like the proverbial "crossed wires" to me.
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03-15-2017, 06:35 AM
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#115
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Once Chris and the new switch get here, we'll get it sorted out.
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03-15-2017, 07:14 AM
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#116
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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ECCB - lets do this, saturday sounds like a great day to beat up on this thing. you are working this week, im workin like crazy on a few goals i set to get done..
like getting my new RACOR CCV vent installed so i dont keep gumming up aier governors with oil.. thats not a must but something id like to get done before the weekend..
thats wierd about the pumps.. both my busses have one pump.. in the carpenter the washer switch doesnt even turn on the wiper.. its super simple... the washer sprays when i hold the toggle switch in... and I have to manually turn on the right or left wiper to get them to go even with the water...
the delays on the carpenter are completely separate switches.. probably add-ins..
the bluebird is fancier like a car.. one switch both wipers and push and hold sprays and they sweep like 3 times and then stop after the squirting..
I think I like the simple method best..
-Christopher
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03-15-2017, 07:17 AM
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#117
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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With this bus, each wiper has a sprayer on the arm itself. Either side can work independently. Its REALLY COOL, when its working correctly!
Thanks a WHOLE LOT!!!!! SATURDAY IT IS!!!!!!!!!!!!
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03-15-2017, 10:42 AM
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#118
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 647
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
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after cleaning the grounds use this between the steel and the lug.
http://www.harger.com/products/idx.c...oid=footinfoid
And do not put a star washer or anything else between ground surface and the lug.
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03-15-2017, 02:05 PM
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#119
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I guess I should post some pics of the grounds. They're IMMACULATE. Clean metal everywhere, no corrosion to speak of, at all.
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03-15-2017, 02:23 PM
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#120
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Not a bad idea at all CB if you have time etc. Start with battery ground to frame and any to the frame and block, tranny, fenders etc. Preventative maintenance in this way will clear up a lot of problems inside with things not working or working strange.
Can you take the old wiper switch cover off and show us the inside with a few pics. They must be well designed and am curious how it failed.
Glad you have an experienced man on the way. Says a lot about the quality of people on this forum willing to help out. Glad to be a part where I can.
__________________
Question everything!
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