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Old 09-29-2018, 02:50 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington beach
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
HELP pulled some wires that were doing nothin

I mean a lot of them were the same color duh duplicates
Now the motor wont start
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Old 09-29-2018, 03:03 PM   #2
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People laughed at me when I said don't cut any wires unless the engine is running. That way when you cut the one that caused your current issue, you would have known right away which one it was.
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Old 09-29-2018, 04:18 PM   #3
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The mechanical 5.9 only needs one wire to run but it needs several to start. What's it doing when you try to start? Buzzers? No spin? Spin but no start?
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Old 09-29-2018, 04:31 PM   #4
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good god look at that mess of wires. you are lucky it is mechanical as the fix will be much easier compared to something newer! what feedback are you getting when you turn the key? anything?
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:15 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Rovobay View Post
good god look at that mess of wires. you are lucky it is mechanical as the fix will be much easier compared to something newer! what feedback are you getting when you turn the key? anything?
Now that you mention it it seems the key might be missing


hmmmm
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Old 09-29-2018, 06:48 PM   #6
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The clearest path forward is to keep pulling wires until something changes!
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:09 PM   #7
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I am so glad my bus is pre-electronic..
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:31 PM   #8
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Roger that. I love my "one wire" motor (ground doesn't count).
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:35 PM   #9
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Roger that. I love my "one wire" motor (ground doesn't count).
Me Too This is a 1991 1 wire mechanical 5.9.
The pictures show the reason.
My tach was broken so it was decided to move the fusebox, build a new instrument panel and relocate the shifter to the right hand side.

Then for fun, since all of the wires were moved out of the way I cut a big hole in the panel and removed the abandoned in place Hurri Hot heater. This allows to move the seat a couple of inches to the left so you will now be sitting centered on the steering wheel and get a little more room to sit down in the drivers seat.
What a concept.

A main reason the panel was moved was the amount of new wiring for the new dash and also relocating the batteries. Plus the added bonus I own the electrical systems with new switches and no hidden splices and certainly no mystery wires. I bought a Rhino labeler that prints on heatshrink tubing and plan on labeling both ends and the middle also. Now the option of salvaging a door off a semi to install there is feasible too.
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:43 PM   #10
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Info on that labeler? That is a great idea.
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:50 PM   #11
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Info on that labeler? That is a great idea.
It is a Rhino 5200. I bought it on Amazon
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:57 PM   #12
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It is a Rhino 5200. I bought it on Amazon
Thanks for that. My electrician taught me to strip a couple inches off the Romex and then use it to write on and slip back on that wire before securing it, so you always knew where the other end went.
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Old 10-01-2018, 11:38 AM   #13
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I bought a label maker that will print cable tags. The end up being about 3/4" after being folded around and stuck..but i like the heat shrink idea.
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Old 10-24-2018, 12:42 PM   #14
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
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Pulled some wires now it will not start (cont.)

OK progress is being made. Have no more wires left to ripout as they are all on the floor of the shop. Have removed the heater, comes out easy as it is modular.
Have removed the flooring which did NOT come up easy. In the future will heat lamp that stuff before trying to pull it up.
Cut back the new opening where the electric panel was to where it will stay until the installation of the new door. The next task is to scrub and clean and maybe a bit of rattlecan etching primer have it clean inside and out then mask it all off to the front axles and shoot it with 3 coats of Lizard skin both sound and insulation and then a judicious amout of mylar backed peel and stick insulation and peel and stick dynamat or similar for the engine compartment. For under the drivers area I am going to cut in 2" thick rigid foamular insulation boards. @ boards @ 2"" ea. equals r20. Then shoot it again with Lizard skin

Then ,reinstall the heater and rewire and install the new panel and instruments.
Time to fill up my propane heater bottle. Looking like some long cold shifts coming up.
We love IT!
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