Help wiring a breaker box

[rumplef0resk1n]

This breaker box was on the bus I bought, trying to reuse as much as possible. Dont remember how it was wired. I'm figuring the lugs in the middle r black, the 3rd on the right is white, and the bar above it is ground?

Just need pointing in the right direction. I'm eventually having someone check my work (electrical, plumbing, etc.)

[fo4imtippin]

If your having someone check the work don't terminate them and just leave them in the box. This is high voltage and the picture is much bigger than this..

[DeMac]

Is this the panel shown in the photo?

(The little brass bar ought not be installed, remove it, if its bonding gnd & neut)

GE-PowerMark-Plus-125-Amp-4-Space-8-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Non-Metallic-Circuit-Breaker-Panel-TPL

Your original assessment sounds correct.

What type of connectors are being used to attach the cable &/or conduits?

[rumplef0resk1n]

Originally Posted by DeMac

Is this the panel shown in the photo?

What type of connectors are being used to attach the cable &/or conduits?

Yes that's the same box.

Connectors? To keep the wires in place? Not sure I really understand what you mean.

A question I have is, why are those 2 lugs jumped like that? I kept that part connected when I removed everything else because I dont understand why the original owner did that. And would I remove it to attach the black from off shore, or just for both in one lug?

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by rumplef0resk1n

Yes that's the same box.

Connectors? To keep the wires in place? Not sure I really understand what you mean.

A question I have is, why are those 2 lugs jumped like that? I kept that part connected
....And would I remove it to attach the black from off shore, or just for both in one lug?

-------------------------
Cable/Romex Connectors

(Zoom in, loose ones on the bottom)

Cable Connectors secure the wires to each box. Definitely use them on all terminations, purchace at HDept or Lwes.



I see one PVC connector in your picture.
Are you attaching conduit there?

The tiny jumper, you mentioned...

...was being (improperly) used to supply a single 120v feed into both bus bars. One of which was likely double-tapped (provides poor conductivity, no OCPD on the jumper)

This GE panel (good one, imo) is designed for 240v supply, (two 120v or split adapter, ok too)

4-wire supply (blk/red/wht/grn)
First two lugs, remove jumper, replace w/ two ungrounded conductors, one in each lug: each conductor supplies two breaker spaces.
Below, one grounded conductor (wht), one ground (grn) into the bar. *they ought not be bonded together.
Bolt in an add-a-lug to bond panel to chassis.

(extra two cents)
There's no "disconnect means" inside the panel, so the main breaker, protecting the conductors supplying this panel, ought to be right next to your bus (or onboard nearby).

-------------------

Tell us more about your bus. Length, type... what's up with the electrical system? Are you somewhere near me?
Tit for tat.

[rumplef0resk1n]

So I tried connecting it how I figured it should be. Wanted to see if I'm doing this correctly. If not, what needs adjusting?

This isnt the final set up. I'm connecting it up now to see how everything is working so far, before going further.

[bus-bro]

You're going too deep in your request for electrical help. May I suggest a licensed electrician. Most study electric wiring and ask general questions. Asking for approval of an electrical system is a bridge too far. But you can always post a "look what I did", and face the slings and arrows.

[Yankee Dog]

If there was one thing I would throw money at it would be hooking up a breaker box. It ain’t as easy as t looks and mistakes can have life altering consequences.

[fo4imtippin]

Also, i know your saying its temporary, but look at the bare wire against the razor sharp conduit hole. Temporary fixes and hook ups become permanent if they accidentally work or you forget about them. Call a buddy, dude!


Before going further, there has been tons of skoolie fire's. Most of the time its shoddy electrical and y'all are working on getting the rest of us cancelled insurance.

[DeMac]

Mount Box
Insert Cable Connector

First complete step one & two.

No Cable Connector,
No Help

Assisted suicide is not cool.

[Rucker]

This is not the right way to go about this.

Do some YouTube research on the basics of a subpanel before you hurt yourself or burn something down.

I say that out of full respect.

Search 'how to wire a subpanel', and take notes.

-That subpanel is called a main lug load center and operates as an in-line subpanel, or alternatively as a main circuit breaker, if you wire it appropriately. I've never wired one of these, but here are some observations:

-Ground (green) and neutral (white) cannot be bonded. I can't tell but it looks like the two are bonded in the picture. You need a separate ground bar (not the equipment grounding kit installed). The ground bar keeps all ground wires separate from the neutral (white) wires.

-The feed wire is clearly undersized. I know you said it's temporary, what are the loads you are putting on the breakers? You really need to start there before wiring some **** up and hitting the power.

-My rule of thumb is find the specs and installation manual on the device and don't deviate from their direction unless I fully understand how I am deviating and what risks I'm taking on.

[bubb, the real one]

This box is a 240v box, designed to have two 120v wires feed into those two lugs that are jumpered together, by connecting/jumper if them you turn this box into a 120v panel which is what you want in a rv, just dont put a 240v breaker in this box or you will release the magic smoke

[rumplef0resk1n]

I tried it out with the wiring set up in the picture. When I try plugging my shore power cable into a gfci, it trips. Reading it's most likely from imbalance between black and white wires, and usually from one touching ground. Checked my wiring, outlets, everythings coming back fine. Reading about 120v on all outlets, not showing any continuity on ground. Using metal conduit so even checked to see if anything was running through that and nothing. My only guess is the subpanel. How green and white are set in there.

I've tried using a different breaker, and different gfci outlets, same result.

So I need a separate grounding bar? Do I ground it to the chassis? Could it be the cord plugging into the gfci is too big? Nothings turned on, just plug in and trip

The wires in the subpanel are coming from an rv shore power cord. The previous owner cut 1 end and wired it to this sub panel. Said he had no problems with it and never had a fire... he had everything on the bus running to one breaker...

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

have you tried the search function on here?
search mike sokul if i remember right and start there.
if a gfci trips then a bigger breaker isnt the answer.