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Old 05-12-2018, 09:14 AM   #21
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Location: Brevard County, FL
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Year: 1990
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Thanks! I'll add a negative bus bar on the shunt for the negatives. On the side that is opposite the battery side. That should work, yes?

I can do the same for the incoming positives too? Minus the shunt.
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:51 AM   #22
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Yes to both.

I probably don't mention bus bars enough - I guess I just assume it. Having a dozen ring terminals on a single stud is just an awful thing - in my opinion. A good bus bar is much better. I've used a variety of different styles but my current favorite are ones like this.

On the positive side (12VDC), I've kind of standardized on this style from Blue Sea. Not saying it is the best in all situations, just one I like.

I'm dealing with a 45' coach. Instead of running every power/ground wire from near the battery (bus/fuse panels), I have run a couple of fused, larger wires to bus/fuse panels to a couple different places and then branch off more circuits from there (another bus bar and fuse panel).

For anyone doing a conversion, a decent set of electrical tools is a worthwhile investment. That would include at least a ratcheting crimper for smaller wires, a crimper for large/battery cable (I use the hydraulic type but several styles exist), and wire stripper.

Maybe another point worth mentioning... I'm also using the Molex 1625 series connectors which require another crimper. I really like these connectors as they are available in a variety of wire counts and are pretty small and tidy. When I build something, I spend a bit of time thinking about how I am going to maintain it and that includes taking it apart without cutting wires. This type of connector makes that easy to do.
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Old 05-13-2018, 12:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
Having a dozen ring terminals on a single stud is just an awful thing - in my opinion.
Yes, and not just opinion.

Resistance goes too high once the stack passes 3-4 rings.

And that's assuming perfect parallel contact surfaces and no corrosion.

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With removable connectors, make sure not to exceed ampacity ratings.

I've standardized on Andersons, and Amphenol-Deutsch for outside weather-resistance, although apparently boots for the larger Andersons can work well.
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:40 PM   #24
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Is a 100 amp shunt large enough?

Recap of equipment:

Aims 3000watt inverter/charger

4 x 12volt AGM 200ah batteries

30 amp shore power

4 solar panels (350w per) wired 2 pairs in series

Midnite Classic 200 SC

All other fuses and wire sized per install manuals/size charts for minimum voltage drop
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
Is a 100 amp shunt large enough?

Recap of equipment:

Aims 3000watt inverter/charger

4 x 12volt AGM 200ah batteries

30 amp shore power

4 solar panels (350w per) wired 2 pairs in series

Midnite Classic 200 SC

All other fuses and wire sized per install manuals/size charts for minimum voltage drop
The shunt carries the full dischage rate of the batteries. Fit the next size above your expected maximum load.
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:55 PM   #26
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Thanks Twigg. I appreciate the response.
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