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Old 01-09-2015, 10:13 AM   #1
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How to reset Solenoids - have lost all internal electrcity

I can start the bus engine (and headlights work) but I have no power to internal lights/radio/windscreen wipers etc.

There is power coming into the 2 (I assume) Solenoids ("White- Rodgers") (top left of picture) but nothing coming out onto the power bars in the middle



Is there a way to reset the Solenoids or do I have to replace them?
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:02 PM   #2
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When the key is in the run position you should be getting fire on the little line that will activate the solenoid.

If you don't have power at the little line the solenoids won't operate.

My first guess would be that your key switch is worn out and not turning on the accessory side of the switch.

Those kind of solenoids do not have a reset function. They are either on or off which is controlled by adding 12-volts to the little wire.

Try using a jumper wire from a hot source and see if the solenoids operate.

Those are pretty robust solenoids and do not fail very often. But they are mechanical and can fail over time. It isn't usual that both would fail at the same time but stranger things have happened.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:00 AM   #3
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Do you have a better picture and model numbers?

Cowlick (wink) is correct, it just looks like an awful lot of shiat attached to the small post

There are 2 large posts, 1 will have 12v and the other 0, until 12v is applied to the small post(may have an I on it)
This will make magnetic solenoid "click" and completing circuit so the 2nd large post will feed whatever like the fuse panel
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:02 AM   #4
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Google solinoid and look at images to get idea how they work, it may be a blown fuse between switch and small lug on solenoid
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:01 PM   #5
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Those are solenoids, typically large wire in , large wire out, small wire to activate. There is probably either an interlock or switch that controls them.
The "bars in the middle" are self resetting circuit breakers. Is that a wiring diagram I see on the inside of the open door? If it is, a REALLY CLEAR picture would help.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:02 AM   #6
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Some better pictures!
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:37 AM   #7
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Go here http://service.blue-bird.com/WiringSchematics/ and see if you can get your wiring diagram. If you want to share your VIN, I'll take a look
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:55 AM   #8
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Thanks!

My VIN is 1HVBBAAL12H524080

Tim



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Old 01-12-2015, 08:59 AM   #9
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Tim,

Those two large solenoids are both powered from the accessory side of the ignition switch. The black wire with yellow tracer numbered 1106 are the ones you want. The other small wire tan with black tracer? goes to a diode. The black/yellow wires go some sort of body plug. Wiring diag says "connects at front electrical panel" may be those big white plugs in lower right of panel picture. There, or somewhere later is where the "bus" plugs into the "International" chassis. Where ever that is, the wire color will probably change to what ever International used from the acc side of the ignition switch. That plug where the bus plugs into the truck is a good place for corrosion to happen.
Bluebird only has their diagrams, not the International part so, I can't tell what happens in the truck part.
I would first get to the back of the ignition switch, if possible pull it out leaving the wires attached. There are probably four wires(back of switch may be marked with terminal use). Using a test light there should be one wire that is hot all of the time(BAT). One will light with the key in the first position(ACC). One will light with the key in the next (IGN) position, ACC light should stay on. The forth will light with the key in the start position(ST). There may be more wires, but these four are the main ones. The one you are concerned with is the ACC one.
Since you said that neither sol, is getting power, I would guess either the ign switch or the body connection. Quick test would be to unplug ign switch, and once you have identified which wire is which, jump from battery to acc in the wiring harness.

Hope this helps,
Dick
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:28 AM   #10
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It was a 10 amp fuse in the International side of the bus that had blown. Now to work out why the fuse blew! Thanks for your help!
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:47 AM   #11
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The fuse blowing could have been as simple as you moving the wire loom around to see what all was under the dash to a more serious problem like frayed insulation.

Unless you blow the fuse almost immediately again I wouldn't worry about it.

If you do blow the fuse almost immediately you will need to start going through the circuit to see where the problem originates.

My first guess would be a problem with the ignition switch.

Every Type 'C' bus has problems with moisture under the dash. No matter how well they build them, no body is ever going to be completely leak free in the joint between the cowl and the bus body. The two parts flex and move at different rates so the gummy putty that seals the joint will leak. I had one bus where the leak dripped down onto the headlight switch. On another it dripped down onto the ignition switch. On both buses I had to R&R the switches and fix the leak.

My second guess would be some insulation has been rubbed off in one of the places where the wire loom rests against a piece of the body.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 07-21-2017, 12:58 PM   #12
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Body power solenoid location/no charge '97 GM Bluebird

Hi Folks,
can anyone help me with the location of the body power solenoid or relay on an 97 model BB cat 3128 equipped GMC? (in order to sleuth the same trouble; i.e. No Running lights, interior lighting, fans, heaters, etc. etc.)?

I intend to introduce myself and my projects to the forum but I"m in the the thick of it currently as I try to revive this old rig in the seller's yard and travel to it's 'camp' lot.

I also do not have charging and i wonder if the two could be related, althought I suspect not since chassis operation is otherwise fine. I'm not sure if what I have is self-exciting or field circuit.

Any help would be much appreciated! Vern
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