I need battery advice

greg15s · 12-30-2016, 12:38 AM

I'm on my way to go buy my first bus. I'm pretty excited. The batteries (2) are dead and I need to know what kind I need. The rear of the bus does have ac. I'm buying:

2004 Ford E350 Super Duty
6.0 L V8DI

I have minimal knowledge of batteries so if you can please help, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks.

serpent · 12-30-2016, 02:52 AM

No worries. Small engine, small starter. Worse case pick up a 12V 800+ CCA battery that fits in the single tray. Worry about sizing alternate batteries and AH usage later.

greg15s · 12-30-2016, 02:58 AM

Thanks a lot. So if that's worse case, whats the middle of the pack suggestion? I plan to eventually power interior lights n fridge n all that later, hopefully through solar panels, etc. but that's a different story.
I was told get a group 31 battery. Idk jack. Thanks friend.

serpent · 12-30-2016, 03:13 AM

Group 31 is just the size reference to standard automotive batteries. One batt is going to be good to start the bus with.

My guess is that the bus doesn't have an aux battery set for internal lights/etc. and is just utilizing an 'oversized' bank for both.

If your goal is just to get it started for picking up and driving home (and you're picking it up from somewhere with shops) I'd avoid picking up a battery until I saw the bus. Once you inspect the bus drive to the closest auto shop and pick one up that fits to start it for the journey.

Long term I'd consider isolating systems. Keep the starting battery away from your house system (fridge/etc.)

Easiest and cheapest would be to use the two battery trays and separate them. One 12V for starting (marine deep cycle), and one 12V deep cycle for house. Small panel and charge controller to the house and run all house items from that.

Long-term I'd rip all the wiring out that's not part of the bus/engine components and build a larger bank for house.

serpent · 12-30-2016, 03:22 AM

Sorry if I'm not being specific. Power needs are so custom to each persons needs it's not even funny.

Here's to keeping simple (a friend bought this for his pop-up and love's it):

Solar Panel Kit - Save on this 45 Watt Solar Panel Kit

Here's to keeping it on the other end:

https://www.altestore.com/store/sola...system-p40464/

serpent · 12-30-2016, 03:22 AM

...batteries not included.

serpent · 12-30-2016, 03:30 AM

Before I respond anymore. I'll ask a couple questions:

1) How long do you plan on running your bare necessities? (Fridge, Fans, lights, Inverters for charging phones, etc.)

2) How many max watts do all of those devices add up to at a single point in time?

I'm spamming. I know. Sorry.

EastCoastCB · 12-30-2016, 05:28 AM

If that 6.0 hasn't been "bulletproofed" you wanna look into that asap.

superdave · 12-30-2016, 05:37 AM

looks nice and green where your at. if your not in alaska then a single group 31 will do. drive it home and check out out your new ride. if you plan on having a solar setup it will be a separate system of batteries. good luck, great base for a build.

GreyCoyote · 12-30-2016, 06:54 AM

FYI: those 6.0 engines have a fuel injection controller module (FICM) that seriously does not appreciate low voltage during cranking. You can start them on 1 battery if its warm and the battery is fresh, but dont make this a habit. That FICM is about a grand, and the replacement will need a trip to Ford to be reprogrammed properly. Ask me how I know.

Not trying to scare you, just want you to understand why it needs two batteries.

I also want to underscore the need to learn about this motor and what it needs for survival. EC mentioned "bulletproofing", and this is very important. The weak points on that motor are the turbo, turbo actuator, injectors, FICM, HPOP, EGR valve, EGR cooler, oil cooler, head bolts, head gasket, and everything connected to them. No joke. Properly done, this can be a decent motor, but without a complete going-thru you'll need a thick wallet and a AAA card. Been there!

Personally I'd never own a 6.0 again, but some folks seem to get along with them pretty well. Google this motor carefully and see if you really want to get into this. Also check out the multiple class actions that arose and were eventually settled, as these really lay open the weak points.

BlackJohn · 12-30-2016, 12:23 PM

Excellent advice, for any engines. Thanks

cadillackid · 12-30-2016, 04:14 PM

this is also the second year of the 6.0.. (perhaps the first if your chassis is a 2004.. which some busses have chassis that lag behind the actual Bus year). MAKE SURE you DRIVE that bus at highway speed for awhile BEFORE purchasing to make sure theres nothing wrong with it.. by the time the 6.0 got to the 06 model year it was better but still had some of the aforementioned issues...

BIG ones being, head bolts instead of studs, oil cooler, EGR cooler and sometimes the Turbo.. those are the Big pricey things that could destroy the engine if they fail... things like ICP,IPR,CPS, water pump are all reasonably low cost and easy to replace..

and never never NEVER run a 6.0 Hot.. OIL Temp is the most important (though it is usually related to coolant temp).. you'll need an OBD2 monitor to watch oil temp.. an OIL temp of 260-270 will Melt the Plastic parts inside the engine (yes theres plastic parts in the oil filter area...).. its not unheard of if you are pulling a hard hill on a hot day to have a coolant temp of 220-230 (which is HOT!) and have oil temp go way over on stock oil cooler...esp on an older worn engine that has more blow-by..

the 6.0 isnt a terrible engine.. just make sure yours is good before you buy the bus.. and then you can decide whether you Bullet-proof it or not... 10k Plus for a new engine? or 2-3k to bulletproof it ...

the earlier 7.3's seem to be more stout and hold up better.. though the elkectronic parts are the same as the 6.0 pretty much..

after the 6.0 came the 6.4 - the 6.4 is OK unless you break it then its pretty much not rebuildable...

-Christopher

GreyCoyote · 12-30-2016, 04:47 PM

In my book, Ford made two legends; the 6.0 and the 5.0. The 6.0's get the record for being able to destroy itself, and the early 80's 5.0 because you literally couldnt.

Warning: thread drift.

EastCoastCB · 12-30-2016, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreyCoyote

In my book, Ford made two legends; the 6.0 and the 5.0. The 6.0's get the record for being able to destroy itself, and the early 80's 5.0 because you literally couldnt.

Warning: thread drift.

Best ford engine I ever had was the pre emissions 351W in my 71 LTD. That engine was amazing for what it was.
SOrry for the thread drift.

This 6.0 stuff comes up all the time, but it IS super worth mentioning.
If you have battery questions, chances are you may have a LOT of issues with owning a 6.0.
I don't mean that as any sort of insult or anything like that. I'd just hate for folks to see a late model bus for a VERY "reasonable" price and buy on without at least being warned.

turf · 12-30-2016, 06:39 PM

i got pretty lucky when i picked up my bus.

i flew to pick the bus up and checked a small tool bag for the trip.

when i got to the bus, i gave the bus yard mechanic my credit card and he called napa and had them deliver the right batteries to me right there at the bus yard. i had the old batteries out by the time the driver showed up and had the new batteries in and on the road in less than an hour.

good luck!

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