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Old 11-13-2020, 11:02 AM   #21
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 490
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 3126b 210hp
Rated Cap: 48
BTW. I have electrical schematics for my bus, 2001 Thomas HDX. An engineer at Thomas in High Point, NC sent the to me when I was tracking down my issues. They are specific to my serial #, but they should be similar to yours.

Peace

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Old 02-06-2022, 06:59 PM   #22
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat 7.2L
Well, life has a tendency to come at you whether you like it or not. So, trying to get back to the bus where I left off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meathead View Post
OP,
Did you ever figure it out? I had that problem AND I made things worse by crossing wires somehow and blowing the fuse to the ecm. We never found the fuse. Searching the internet, lots of ppl have trouble finding the fuse. We ended up running a new wire from the ignition switch on the “box “ in the back.
Nope. No luck at all and since my previous post I have not messed with it until today. Now I have an entirely new issue: I can't get the bus to crank at all. Imagine turning an ignition switch that isn't plugged in to anything, that's what I have right now. Batteries are good and it's got a tender hooked up to it. Lights and gauges and everything functioning as intended. I last started it 2-3 months ago and everything was functioning fine. I haven't made any changes to the bus electrical or otherwise since my last post.

I'm also in a position where I have to move the bus ASAP. As in before the first. Of February. I'm short on spare time to top it off.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
STP
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Old 02-09-2022, 08:34 PM   #23
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat 7.2L
Little update -

So today I chased wires with the multimeter. Everything seemed to be functioning as it should, no bad fuses/relays and everything was receiving power as intended. At some point I went to turn the key to the run position and, as usual, turned it all the way to the start position even though it has never started (for me) from the key. For the first time since I bought it, the bus started with the key! It must have had a bad connection to one of the relays and removing/testing/replacing everything as many times as I did most have cleaned up a connection well enough for the key to function. I let it run for a bit, warm up, fill the air tanks, and (very reluctantly) shut it down. Went to the back of the bus to check the rear start switch, crossed my fingers and pressed it, it started up! I couldn't believe it! Now the key and the rear start function as they should.

I really appreciate all the input and advice from you all and look forward to sharing more as the build progresses.

Thank you
-STP
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Old 05-05-2022, 04:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Meathead View Post
I have a 2001 Hdx Thomas and this is how it works;

Your bus came from the factory with a vandalock system.The front key switch checks to see if all the hatches, doors and windows are closed and latched, or the bus will not start. You should also hear buzzers going off if just one hatch is open.

The rear start button will start the bus no matter what door or hatch is open. Mechanics don’t necessarily need to be concerned for child safety.

I suspect that your vandalock system has been compromised and the school system didn’t want to deal with it. Maybe they couldn’t track down the hatch/window causing the bus not to start. Maybe they pulled the buzzers and figured that the old bus can be started from the back until we get rid of it.

So here is what you do. Run a wire from the “st” terminal on your keyswitch to the button in the back. You have now bypassed the vandalock system and you are effectively pushing the rear button from the front.

Many of us have done this. I was given this tip after I aggressively gutted my bus and it would not start.
It seems you are in the same spot. You just took a different route.

Other than your keyswitch being broken, this is your problem.

Peace
Im having this exact problem... What is the "st" terminal on the key switch? is it labeled or do i need to know by looking at it? Also when you say "the button in the back" which button are you referring to, the button you press that starts the bus? I apricate the input
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Old 05-06-2022, 07:46 AM   #25
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 490
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 3126b 210hp
Rated Cap: 48
Ignition switch wired to only start from the engine compartment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan501 View Post
Im having this exact problem... What is the "st" terminal on the key switch? is it labeled or do i need to know by looking at it? Also when you say "the button in the back" which button are you referring to, the button you press that starts the bus? I apricate the input

Yes. “I” “B” “ST””AC” should be marked on the switch itself. Ignition, battery, start, and accessories. And yes, wire to the button in the back. With this method you are essentially pushing the back button from the drivers seat.

If you have a 2000 and up Thomas HDX you can bypass the vandalock system buy jumping a start relay in your dash fuse panel. Click image for larger version

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No need to run a wire front to back!

On other Thomas busses,2000ish and up, you have the same start relay to jump. I just don’t know where it is located.

Dave
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