Indecision May Or May Not Be My Problem

[HazMatt]

Yup, another question about Skoolie electricity! No, not an annoying buzzer, inattentive wiring harness cutting, open emergency alarm circuit, braided versus solid core 110 conductors, or even a loose battery ground strap(!).

I’m past due moving out of the ghetto shore power situation that I’ve been living with for far too long (i.e. an industrially heavy-duty extension cord run up thru the bottom of the front door). What I haven’t found, lurking the site and reading the archives, is how to route a more kosher connection in, per my requirements.

A little background: the fella I bought it from had already removed the seats (sparing me that little slice of heaven!), and stripped most of the ceiling panels and insulation before his betrothed decided that she’d very much rather have a cabin in ME instead of a Skoolie. While he also mostly unscrewed/de-riveted the interior wall cladding, it’s still in situ, and I intend to leave it thusly.

So… is there some way to temporarily remove one section of the cladding in a non-destructive manner, so that it can be reinstalled after running the 110 wiring? Optimally, I’d like to have the receptacle in the interstitial space between the ribs framing the escape window, routing up (if unfeasible to route inside of) the rib just forward, with the breakers mounted above the windows.

Here’s hoping one of you gurus will do the voodoo you do so well! Thanx!!!

[‘98 IH 3800 8-window Thomas chassis]

[david.dgeorge07]

Send a pic of where you would like it to come in. Wall panels are often screwed in but may need to be cut below the window.

Easy enough to put a 30 amp inlet in and terminate it temporarily to a female Edison recepticle.

[HazMatt]

Thanx for the response! Didn't reply sooner, as I was hoping for more input. After 107 views, reckon yours is all I can hope for!
To reiterate: the breaker box and 110v outlets are all to be installed above the window line.
Not sure if they'll help much, but attaching pix.

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Send a pic of where you would like it to come in. Wall panels are often screwed in but may need to be cut below the window.

Easy enough to put a 30 amp inlet in and terminate it temporarily to a female Edison recepticle.

I've always marched to a different drum, which might explain why I became a percussionist!
(Sold my Ludwigs & Zildjians looo-ong ago. Couldn't quite fit 'em in my first VW MicroBus, doncha know...)
Wich might explain why I'm the only one in this forum who actually wants to keep the wall cladding!!!
Dunno, I really don't mind the look of the metal wainscotting. It gives me a place to use my magnets, and it'll look a lot better once I get to the stage where I can clean & paint it.

A joke:
"Three musicians and a drummer are walking down the street..."

[Dog Rescuer]

I ran plastic electrical conduit just above the seat rail to an outlet from the breaker box at the rear of the bus. I only have outlets on one side of the bus - but then I ran my 12V lines in conduit above the windows for all my lighting needs.

I am not sure that answered your question. I wanted to be able to access the wiring if needed in the future. After 2 years, I have not needed to access it - except the 12V wiring - I add stuff to that all the time.

[HazMatt]

Well... no, it didn't, but that's OK. I appreciate the input!
My seat rail is just below the sheet metal in question <Image 1>, so above it doesn't work (short of getting the cladding out), tho it makes me think, as a last ditch resort, to route beneath the rail! [emoji106] Much heavier steel, so I'm hoping not...🤞
I'm installing a half dozen 110 circuits, fore and aft, port and starboard. No immediate need for them all, just for future contingencies. I'd much rather have and not need, than vice versa! Particularly since adding lines will be a proctological pain after this turkey gets all the "trimmings"...

Originally Posted by Dog Rescuer

I ran plastic electrical conduit just above the seat rail to an outlet from the breaker box at the rear of the bus. I only have outlets on one side of the bus - but then I ran my 12V lines in conduit above the windows for all my lighting needs.

I am not sure that answered your question. I wanted to be able to access the wiring if needed in the future. After 2 years, I have not needed to access it - except the 12V wiring - I add stuff to that all the time.

Attachment 33022
Not well versed in electrical lingo, but will do my best:
That round thingamabob with the toggle, that isn't your breaker box, is it?
Then the little black doohickey zip-tied just above it looks like fail/power indicator.
And the bigger black whosis to the right- solar controller?

Attachment 33023

Can't tell, but are the 110's mounted low?

I laid in some various diameter Schedule 40 pipe, nipples, and t-fittings for my conduits, but have yet to cut any, so can still return if needs be. That electrical conduit that you used, is it any more flexible?

Hadn't considered future 12V additions... Thanx for putting that bug in my ear! (Note to self: install draw-wires in 12V conduits)

[HazMatt]

Well... THAT didn't work too darned well!

Part of my reply is in between your 2 pix. Please expand the quoted section...

[Dog Rescuer]

The round box in the first picture is a switch for an outside light - it just seemed to fit there.
My 12V system runs on solar - the black box is just a reader for the 12v power - the solar controller is down near the batteries.

My 110 goes to a small circuit breaker box - then out to two electrical outlets. I was thinking of running one to the other side of my bus - and may. But I only really use the two on the passenger side.

The conduit is flexible and bends okay. It was pretty cheap, too - and easy to work with.

I didn’t want anything running through the walls - [emoji51]

[HazMatt]

Cool beans!

Originally Posted by Dog Rescuer

The round box in the first picture is a switch for an outside light - it just seemed to fit there.
My 12V system runs on solar - the black box is just a reader for the 12v power - the solar controller is down near the batteries.

My 110 goes to a small circuit breaker box - then out to two electrical outlets. I was thinking of running one to the other side of my bus - and may. But I only really use the two on the passenger side.

The conduit is flexible and bends okay. It was pretty cheap, too - and easy to work with.

I didn’t want anything running through the walls - [emoji51]

Thanx for the clarification. Since I'm not yet wedded to any one approach to my accessory electrical systems, I'm grateful for any input on my outflow!
And inputs...

[joeblack5]

Is your question how to run the wires behind the cladding because you cannot get the wiring thru since it is to flexible but there is space?

I used 3/4 PVC pipe and was able to push it behind some of my ducts without removing the metal. The PVC is stiff but semi flexible and easy to couple and extend.
Running wire thru the conduit is pretty easy.
Not sure if that is what you were aiming for.
Johan

[HazMatt]

Howdy Johan, thanx for posting!

Originally Posted by joeblack5

Is your question how to run the wires behind the cladding because you cannot get the wiring thru since it is to flexible but there is space?

I used 3/4 PVC pipe and was able to push it behind some of my ducts without removing the metal. The PVC is stiff but semi flexible and easy to couple and extend.
Running wire thru the conduit is pretty easy.
Not sure if that is what you were aiming for.
Johan

I guess I wasn't too clear on what I've envisioned. Even my writing has astigmatism!
Port on exterior wall to plug into shore power, located in between hat channels. (Wanting to position it where the amber reflector is, ginning a spring loaded hinge on a reflector to cover inlet when not gainfully employed)
Port wired thru interior wall, exiting immediately adjoining a hat channel.
Route wires up above window level to breakers.
110V outlets scattered along both sides, same elevation.
Clear as mud now? [emoji41]

[joeblack5]

I like the spring loaded reflector to conceal the plug.

Used to run propane on my Citroen and jag when I lived in the Netherlands. Since there was a very high road tax applied to running cheaper fuel. Of course as a student did not want to pay for it. So the propane tank nipple had to be invisible ad not being a dead giveaway to the cops.
This pic is in the USA when I brought it over after 20 yrs in storage.

Sorry no I intend to hijack just fascinated by hidden doors.

[HazMatt]

Thank you. I thought it would be a nifty idea (provided I can make it work!), and haven't seen it done yet. Functional funkiness is fascinating, for sure.

Originally Posted by joeblack5

I like the spring loaded reflector to conceal the plug.

Used to run propane on my Citroen and jag when I lived in the Netherlands. Since there was a very high road tax applied to running cheaper fuel. Of course as a student did not want to pay for it. So the propane tank nipple had to be invisible ad not being a dead giveaway to the cops.
This pic is in the USA when I brought it over after 20 yrs in storage.

Sorry no I intend to hijack just fascinated by hidden doors.

No worries, the cockpit door remains secure.
But speaking of funk: that is one fine, funky car! The propane nipple is well-hidden- even looking for it I didn't find it...
Matteo~