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01-28-2020, 07:38 PM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Juat spitballing ideas, did you test and reset the gfci switch?
I juat ask because I had a conversation with a fellow skoolie about the gfci outlet on our inverters. He claimed that his inverter wouldn't send out power to his breakers if it was tripped. Mine will continue to send power out of the AC out to my breakers if the gfci is tripped. I dunno, something to think about.
I read the manual to your inverter about 3 times at this point. The only other thing i can think of is what John said. It may be looking for AC input for an intial start up, even though the manual doesn't mention it. It really only mentions ac abnormal on that pic i posted above.
Yours seems to not have an auto transfer switch, but I don't think that should be an issue? Maybe those more knowledgable than me can chime in on that? Hope you get it figured out.
__________________
Nick
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01-28-2020, 07:55 PM
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#22
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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I would put the dip switches (4&5) to position 1 as well.
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Nick
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01-28-2020, 08:41 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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I did try hitting the test and reset buttons on the gfci, and onboard circuit breaker buttons.
I'll give it a shot wiring my genny to the 30amp shore plug and see if that will get the ac input qualified and unlock it so to speak to get it to start working
thank yall for your input!
edit - and i promise the next picture of my setup once i get it working the wiring will look much better and safe for travel. I have terminal covers on order too for the battery bank terminals because i forgot those as well.
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01-29-2020, 09:37 PM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Any updates?
__________________
Nick
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01-29-2020, 11:29 PM
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#25
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty
Any updates?
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My transmission went out in my car on my way home that night. I don't have another vehicle so am not able to get out to the bus for a minute. I might borrow someones car to take a trip out on sunday or monday if I can
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02-03-2020, 03:13 PM
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#26
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Well, I'm gonna blame the other night on frustration and I dont know what else. I swear I flipped the switch every which way, but came out today, flipped power saver off and everything's working. Upset with myself because I obviously missed something last week. Probably didnt flip the breakers on to send the power through, I dont know, but I'm glad it's working! Now I just gotta finish cleaning up the wiring and mounting of electrical components, then install my plumbing and the bus is good to go!
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02-03-2020, 04:31 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
Well, I'm gonna blame the other night on frustration and I dont know what else. I swear I flipped the switch every which way, but came out today, flipped power saver off and everything's working. Upset with myself because I obviously missed something last week. Probably didnt flip the breakers on to send the power through, I dont know, but I'm glad it's working! Now I just gotta finish cleaning up the wiring and mounting of electrical components, then install my plumbing and the bus is good to go!
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Looking good. I really like your wall treatment. How easy would it be for you to replace a window if one got broken? I'm keeping all my original windows and I'm thinking about how I'm going to construct my walls so I can disassemble them relatively easily to get at the windows if necessary.
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02-03-2020, 05:36 PM
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#28
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Looking good. I really like your wall treatment. How easy would it be for you to replace a window if one got broken? I'm keeping all my original windows and I'm thinking about how I'm going to construct my walls so I can disassemble them relatively easily to get at the windows if necessary.
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Just have to remove the trim, which would be a few screws. The only difficult ones would be the ones behind my kitchen counter.
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02-05-2020, 06:27 PM
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#29
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
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Good, you got it working.
How did you assemble your Nissan Leaf batteries? Can you post a picture. Was it 3 modules, 3.5 modules, or 4 modules in series. 3 modules would be 24 volts charged to 4.0 volts per cell. 3.5 modules would be 28 volts and 4 modules would be 32 volts. Have you found a bms for them? Are you going without BMS?
Thanks
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02-08-2020, 06:40 PM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktari
Good, you got it working.
How did you assemble your Nissan Leaf batteries? Can you post a picture. Was it 3 modules, 3.5 modules, or 4 modules in series. 3 modules would be 24 volts charged to 4.0 volts per cell. 3.5 modules would be 28 volts and 4 modules would be 32 volts. Have you found a bms for them? Are you going without BMS?
Thanks
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I have them wired 3 in series, so 24 volt. I do not have a BMS right now, just letting charge controller do its thing, but I will be adding a BMS before I move into the bus. For right now it sits in storage so I disconnect all breakers so theres no power flowing while I'm not there. I've seen people that have used a $75 bluetooth bms on these batteries (I'd have to find the link again to the product, unsure of brand) so that's the route I'll likely go.
This is the best picture of them I have right now. 3 series, then parallel together.
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02-08-2020, 07:08 PM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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24V would be 7S (actually 25+V, charge at 29V)
Is each unit that you are 3S'ing 2S (7.3V / 8.4Vch)?
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08-30-2020, 07:48 PM
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#32
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 95
Year: 2008
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: IC CE300
Engine: Maxxforce DT
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Hello, had the exact same issue with same inverter charger. I confirm that it needs to receive shore power before turning the inverter function on and deliver AC output. This thread saved me hours of investigation and frustration !
Seb
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08-30-2020, 08:38 PM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
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I’ve been trying out my Leaf modules in 4s7p with a 12 volt inverter. It works but not ideally. I’m only using the lower part of the capacity of these modules so I have to recharge more often than I’d like but whenever I run the engine the alternator gives it a boost.
Yes, each modules is 2s.
I’m getting ready to buy a Victron 48 volt inverter which will match the modules voltage better and enable me to use most of the module capacity.
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08-30-2020, 10:09 PM
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#34
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 523
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Bluebird, Collins
Chassis: G30 Bluebird Microbird, E350 Shuttle Bus
Engine: 1995 Chevrolet 350, 1992 Ford 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
I have them wired 3 in series, so 24 volt. I do not have a BMS right now, just letting charge controller do its thing, but I will be adding a BMS before I move into the bus. For right now it sits in storage so I disconnect all breakers so theres no power flowing while I'm not there. I've seen people that have used a $75 bluetooth bms on these batteries (I'd have to find the link again to the product, unsure of brand) so that's the route I'll likely go.
This is the best picture of them I have right now. 3 series, then parallel together.
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Hello, any update. How is it working? Thanks
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