Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-21-2019, 07:45 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Colebrook CT
Posts: 163
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 96A3
Engine: 6V92
Is there a way to...

Wire my interior lights so my ignition key doesn't have to be turned on to operate them? I am going to a battery bank with an inverter for AC but I want to use my existing lights in the bus. How do I do that?
Thanks!

Mtrdrms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2019, 09:51 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
somewhereinusa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,436
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
You don't say what kind of bus. The simple answer is find the circuit breaker that feeds the lights you want to change and simply change the feed to it from the source you want to use.
If it's a full size bus probably located in door beside the driver on outside.
somewhereinusa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 12:29 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Colebrook CT
Posts: 163
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 96A3
Engine: 6V92
Ok, so I found the hot lead to the light switches. However, when I apply an alternate power source (my house batteries), the lights don't work. I think this is due to a grounding issue. So, if I ground my house batteries to the bus, will that work or do I have to reground the lights to the house batts?
Thanks
Mtrdrms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 12:51 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 347
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Best setup for a 12V house system is to have both the house and starter battery grounded. The house battery is connected on the + side to the vehicle battery via an isolator relay that closes when the alternator charges. This way, the house battery gets charged from the alternator but house loads do not drain the starting battery when the engine is off. Every consumer, whether on house or starter battery, is grounded for the current return path.

A isolator diode can be used in lieu of the isolator relay but you need to compensate for the voltage loss in the diode with a separate sense lead to the alternator. That's a little trickier especially if the alternator is monitored/controlled by the ECU.
alpine44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:01 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Colebrook CT
Posts: 163
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 96A3
Engine: 6V92
Ok, so I should ground both sets of batteries to the chassis and connect a positive lead of the house batteries to a positive of the start batteries with and isolator in between? I can do that. Sorry if its a silly question, I'm no electrician...
__________________
Double-clutching my way to the bank...
Mtrdrms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:05 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 347
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrdrms View Post
Ok, so I should ground both sets of batteries to the chassis and connect a positive lead of the house batteries to a positive of the start batteries with and isolator in between? I can do that. Sorry if its a silly question, I'm no electrician...
Yes, the isolator relay prevents the house loads from draining the starting battery when parked, which would be very annoying. When the alternator is charging, both house and starter battery are connected in parallel (house + to start +) via the closed relay contact.
alpine44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:08 PM   #7
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Colebrook CT
Posts: 163
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 96A3
Engine: 6V92
Thats great! Can you point me to a good isolator? I see lots out there...
__________________
Double-clutching my way to the bank...
Mtrdrms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:11 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
Are there any other stats needed to figure out the correct isolator relay?
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:24 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 347
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
Are there any other stats needed to figure out the correct isolator relay?
The relay and connecting wires need to be rated for the maximum current flowing between the batteries.

There is a configuration where the house battery contributes to the cranking current. That is great for diesels in the winter but you need a beefier relay for this.

The other high current scenario is when you drain a large house bank way down and then the relay connects it to a fully charged starting bank.

I would contact the tech support of the isolator manufacturer and tell them your battery configuration and sizes to have them suggest a suitable model. I never had any issue with several products from Sure Power.
alpine44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.