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Old 08-13-2021, 10:00 AM   #21
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Location: Connecticut
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Tool batteries are different from laptop batteries for example, because they need to support really high discharge rates in bursts. An angle grinder or a circular saw can draw dozens of amps at 20V or thereabouts.

So these batteries are made with very thick copper and aluminum foil electrodes. A nice "free feature" here is that you can charge them at very high rates, because there is almost no resistance between the terminals and the electrochemically active part of the cell.

They do not get that many cycles. A few hundred typically. If you get the good stuff.

I would not consistently use them for lighting, because it is really expensive per watt-hour.

@Danjo: one very interesting learning is that you can get away with a lot less light than you think you need. With one watt of LED lights, you can manage perfectly fine in a bus. It's not as bright as at home, but it doesn't need to be. It seems like a big compromise, but it's not.

If I would go for the cheapest viable option, I would buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Nekteck-Water...8866588&sr=8-5

A pack of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Lapt...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Assuming they have USB power banks laying around.

These are cool but... way too much light!
https://www.amazon.com/Onite-20-US24...s%2C468&sr=8-2

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Old 08-13-2021, 12:01 PM   #22
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I’ve never played around with how many watts my LEDs pull. I suspect quite a few since I use strong colors . But I’m usually sitting working writing code where I want cool dark-mode style colors anyway so I’m not making the bus super bright. I have all my bus windows so I never use lights daytime.

Now Christmas lights are a different story. I always put up several strings of C7 Christmas lights. Old school ceramic bulbs. On a dimmer. They were 125 watts per string…. Now a company called tru tone makes vintage glass ceramic LED versions and they look damn close to their originals.. I think they are like .25 watts per bulb .. so I can last longer on batteries with the Christmas lights on.. previously at 300 watts or so it didn’t take long to eat batteries lolol
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Old 08-13-2021, 12:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert06840 View Post
Tool batteries are different from laptop batteries for example, because they need to support really high discharge rates in bursts. An angle grinder or a circular saw can draw dozens of amps at 20V or thereabouts.

So these batteries are made with very thick copper and aluminum foil electrodes. A nice "free feature" here is that you can charge them at very high rates, because there is almost no resistance between the terminals and the electrochemically active part of the cell.

They do not get that many cycles. A few hundred typically. If you get the good stuff.

I would not consistently use them for lighting, because it is really expensive per watt-hour.

@Danjo: one very interesting learning is that you can get away with a lot less light than you think you need. With one watt of LED lights, you can manage perfectly fine in a bus. It's not as bright as at home, but it doesn't need to be. It seems like a big compromise, but it's not.

If I would go for the cheapest viable option, I would buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Nekteck-Water...8866588&sr=8-5

A pack of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Lapt...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Assuming they have USB power banks laying around.

These are cool but... way too much light!
https://www.amazon.com/Onite-20-US24...s%2C468&sr=8-2
Well, I went “big” for a short bus. 600W of panel and 400Ah of AGM battery.

For lighting I ended up getting six 4W recessed pucks to fill the holes where the sad little speakers used to be. I haven’t wired them yet. I suspect it’s like Operating Room volume of light so I’m going to switch them in pairs.

I added a strip of 12v RBGW for mood lighting.
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Old 08-13-2021, 02:42 PM   #24
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
You are in Roswell? [emoji33][emoji2933]
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Old 08-13-2021, 04:14 PM   #25
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The term solar generator is scammy, I just use "powerpack"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basecamp70 View Post
between 1500 to over 2000 watt hours
so 110-150Ah yes in decent insolation conditions should be fine with 200-400W of panels.


> As for small electronics like phones etc, I plan on using a much smaller solar unit

Much better to just have one big House bank, and all sources targeting primarily that.

Note for comparison if it does not really need to be portable, best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH @12V pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club.

NAPA relabels it here: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP8144 Deka self-labeled also sold at Lowes.

But yes a LI bank has lots of advantages if you are flush
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