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07-06-2019, 05:06 PM
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#1
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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kWh Meter To Measure Power Consumption?
I heard mention of one on a video posted by a member selling their rig recently. This one appeared to be hardwired in-line, but is there such a thing as a kWh meter that can simply plug in-line with a standard 30A shore power or 110V AC drop cord?
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07-06-2019, 05:14 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,402
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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07-06-2019, 05:17 PM
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#3
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
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That's a hard-wired unit. I'm looking for one that simply plugs in, like built-in to a drop cord, preferably something weather-proof for use with a 30A service. I've found a few plug-in units but they can't handle more than about 12-14 amps. I did find this:
MeterMaid 30A Plug-In Power Meter For RV
Not paying $285 for that, though, that's just insane. One FleaBay listing for the same price...
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07-06-2019, 05:26 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
That's a hard-wired unit. I'm looking for one that simply plugs in, like built-in to a drop cord, preferably something weather-proof for use with a 30A service.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/KILL-A-WATT...gAAOSwuU9dF~et
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07-06-2019, 06:59 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 255
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Vista 3600
Engine: DT466E / AT545
Rated Cap: 72
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I second the Kill-a-watt. I just picked one up last week at Home Depot, Lowes also has them.
Great little units for getting the actual (vs advertised) wattage of appliances. Already found quite a few fibbing on the watt ratings.
Only downside is that its limit is 15 amps.
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07-06-2019, 07:05 PM
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#6
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geminusprime
I second the Kill-a-watt. I just picked one up last week ... Only downside is that its limit is 15 amps.
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That's the problem I have, I'm trying to find out how much juice I'm drawing on someone else's service. I need something that can handle 30 amp without overload. Only one I've found that can handle 30 amps so far is almost $300.
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07-06-2019, 07:11 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 255
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Vista 3600
Engine: DT466E / AT545
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
That's the problem I have, I'm trying to find out how much juice I'm drawing on someone else's service. I need something that can handle 30 amp without overload. Only one I've found that can handle 30 amps so far is almost $300.
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May not be the most accurate, but better than paying $300.
https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amper...dp/B07JB9B2QL/
Uses Hall effect to determine load without attaching directly to a conductive surface carrying the load (meaning no cutting into cables).
EDIT TO ADD:
Although the unit is rated to 260V, the instructions assume you are using a 2 conductor wire (normally black = hot, white = neutral) as the power source regardless of your voltage. However, in the US, a 3 conductor wire (black = hot, red = hot, white = neutral) provides 240V power inside your house.. Each "hot" carries 120V relative to neutral, and you get 240V across the two "hots". So... when connecting this display to 240V power on a 3 conductor circuit... instead of running a hot and neutral (black and white) to the display like you would for standard 120V wiring, you leave out the neutral connection and run both of the hots (black and red)... one hot to each of the two power terminals on the display. Again, that's ONE hot to EACH power terminal.
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07-06-2019, 07:17 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,402
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
That's a hard-wired unit. I'm looking for one that simply plugs in, like built-in to a drop cord, preferably something weather-proof for use with a 30A service. I've found a few plug-in units but they can't handle more than about 12-14 amps. I did find this:
MeterMaid 30A Plug-In Power Meter For RV
Not paying $285 for that, though, that's just insane. One FleaBay listing for the same price...
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I think that you are looking for a unicorn.
The hard wired units fit your current spec. The Kill-A-Watt fits your plug in want. Pick one.....
Hard wiring the unit that I linked is very simple and would take me about 5 minutes....
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07-06-2019, 07:25 PM
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#9
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geminusprime
May not be the most accurate, but better than paying $300.
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Probably about as close as I'll get to what I'm looking for without paying an arm and a leg.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geminusprime
EDIT TO ADD:
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ENGLISH, DOC!
The junction box feeding my "umbilical cord" was installed specifically to run a drop cord to the 30 amp service on the RV, so I think we can safely presume that the source circuit is 2-conductor, as is the line I plan to monitor, (the cord from there to the RV). My old man is an electrician, so hard wiring isn't that big of a deal, I guess. I just don't want to do anything too permanent, as he is thinking of selling the place.
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07-06-2019, 07:51 PM
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#10
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
I think that you are looking for a unicorn.
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Not really, just bloody farkin' expensive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
The hard wired units fit your current spec. The Kill-A-Watt fits your plug in want. Pick one.....
Hard wiring the unit that I linked is very simple and would take me about 5 minutes....
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For anyone who is experienced in wiring alternating current systems, it is. I know nothing of AC current, and I'm not enthused about fooling with something that can kill me if I don't know what I'm doing.
As mentioned in my last post on this thread, my old man could probably do this no problem, however he is thinking about selling the place, hence, I don't want to do anything too permanent.
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07-06-2019, 10:46 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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07-09-2019, 08:11 PM
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#12
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 90
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Add plug in cords to a hardwired unit and be done with it.
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07-14-2019, 11:47 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 42
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FYI - I love my little Kill A Watt meter (as mentioned by others). Is it realistic for you to just determine the KWH load of the individual devices to figure out the total KWH average? I'm a big fan of keeping it simple....
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07-15-2019, 12:24 AM
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#14
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Good thought, but not really possible in this case. This is a 35 year old RV with most of the major loads hard-wired and no real way to determine that. It's far easier to monitor the junction box for the feed (dedicated circuit) or the power cord going in for total gross for the purposes of determining accurate bill charges.
I do know that my major loads are rooftop A/C, microwave, dorm style fridge, and a pair of heaters. Most of this stuff is so old there's no way to even find advertised or estimated current draw with any accuracy. Which doesn't speak well for efficiency, I'm sure, but I would like a real-time solution, for that reason.
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07-15-2019, 03:36 AM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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All you need is access to the load devices' power wire at any point, and a clamp-on ammeter.
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07-15-2019, 03:59 AM
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#16
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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I understand that, but all I really need is something to show my power draw at the source.
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07-15-2019, 10:35 AM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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I thought suggestions for doing it cheaply were appropriate, sorry if I was mistaken.
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07-15-2019, 01:13 PM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
I understand that, but all I really need is something to show my power draw at the source.
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So where does your source cable run into, a switch or a panel?
Clamp on ammeter is best for your intentions, just around the main 110v cable where it ties into whatever equipment you have. That will read total amperage but they aren't exactly a cheap tool as I recall.
So just clamp the black cable, not the neutral. And do it carefully if not used to working on something live. Don't want you to be the first critter fried on this site. Someone else is well on their way to that honour
John
__________________
Question everything!
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07-15-2019, 01:13 PM
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#19
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
I thought suggestions for doing it cheaply were appropriate, sorry if I was mistaken.
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Oh, your suggestions are duly noted, not knocking them at all. Definitely welcome. But with ancient A/C and microwave that are hard-wired within the walls with no power specs available, there's no way to get individual readings for those loads anyway.
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07-15-2019, 01:18 PM
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#20
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
So where does your source cable run into, a switch or a panel?
Clamp on ammeter is best for your intentions, just around the main 110v cable where it ties into whatever equipment you have. That will read total amperage but they aren't exactly a cheap tool as I recall.
So just clamp the black cable, not the neutral. And do it carefully if not used to working on something live. Don't want you to be the first critter fried on this site. Someone else is well on their way to that honour
John
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I'm in a 30-year-old RV that is pretty much all original with its 30-amp service plugged in through the correct adapter to a dedicated junction box. Unless I open the junction box (not comfortable doing that myself as I have zero experience with AC current), there's really no way for me to access any of the feed wiring. My old man can wire up something if need be, but I need something weatherproof without breaking the bank, because the junction box and the cord feeding the RV are out in the weather.
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