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03-01-2019, 01:48 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: GA
Posts: 611
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran RE
Chassis: International 3000
Engine: T444e 7.3L
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Light Switch for LED DC lights
I'm surprised how hard it is to find a simple light switch...
I want several 3-way switches, with a dimmer on one end and no dimmer on the other that are 12-volt rated.
I can find that with AC-rated switches, but not DC. With DC, I can find 3-way dimmer switches but no 3-way switches without dimmer. Amazon changed their search to no longer sort by "most relevant results" but will only let you sort by "featured results." Google and Bing and Home Depot and Lowe's searches keep giving me 120-volt results no matter what I search for. Any help?
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03-01-2019, 02:15 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Automotive suppliers oriented toward RV and off-road custom. And marine sources.
Individual switches that snap into a triple faceplate.
Dimming LEDs is a learning project, especially if RF interference is an issue.
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03-01-2019, 02:26 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Motor City
Posts: 151
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One common RV switch supplier is JR Products.
They have many combinations of switches and bezels.
There's other manufactures that make similar looking rocker switches. In my experience, you can mix and match.
(Having trouble attaching images today. Hopefully this image link lasts a while.)
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03-01-2019, 04:49 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,001
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International
Engine: TE 444
Rated Cap: 12
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You can use standard 120 volt AC light switches for 12 volt DC, just not ac dimmer switches , most AC switches are rated for DC if you read the tiny label
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03-01-2019, 04:58 PM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 25
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I am playing around with this - link below
https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Dimmer-L.../dp/B01C4UBMY6
It is a dimmer for 12v led. Rotate to dimmer and to turn on & off. Mounting is the challenge, but workable, I think.
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03-01-2019, 05:58 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Some LED's are not compatible with a dimmer. The ones in my home are non compatible, if you dim it , they start to flicker wildly. The dimple LED"s are twice the cost. Easier to dim a high voltage build than a low voltage LED.
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03-01-2019, 06:25 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,459
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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You can get led dimmers much cheaper. I just bought 4 2 different kinds for $26. Search for pwm. For light switches I use RC controlled relays. You can have a 3 way, or more, by just using more "key fob" transmitters. I have five 4 relay, one in each room. An added benefit is you don't have to string any wires in the walls for light switches. I just mount a transmitter where I want the switch. I have used various kinds of pwm dimmers.
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03-01-2019, 09:13 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: GA
Posts: 611
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran RE
Chassis: International 3000
Engine: T444e 7.3L
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The discussion brings up an interesting point - I just assumed I would do DC wiring. Why not consider AC lighting?
I boondock right now for anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks at a time. I will likely end up living in the bus for 6-12 months (with power hookup) after returning to the lower 48 in a year or two, then go back to boondocking trips.
I have a 2000-watt power inverter, so I'm not terribly worried about maxing it out.
My only major concern is that A/C lighting will run the batteries down faster than D/C. Is this valid?
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03-01-2019, 09:26 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Yes, for off grid efficiency is key, native DC avoiding inverter usage as much as possible.
Of course a roof full of solar feeding a huge battery bank will compensate for inefficient consumption, a genset even more so.
But personally I prefer advising starting small & efficient, expanding only as needed.
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03-02-2019, 07:41 AM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douggy
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I have one if these. It works well. I just ran it to a shallow box and bought a coaxial face plate for it.
Gotta read the wiring instructions for it. It can work with a common ground (bus body) or with grounds run back from lights.
__________________
Nick
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02-01-2022, 11:49 AM
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#11
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Peru. IN
Posts: 184
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: NB18FD Oshkosh
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 18,500
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I use this place for anything LED. I have boughten many quality parts from them. Amazon I have had quality issues every time I bought LED from them.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/
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02-01-2022, 12:46 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: VA, Clarke & Greene Counties
Posts: 392
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: VIN = 1T7HR3B2311090770
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: ~72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam
The discussion brings up an interesting point - I just assumed I would do DC wiring. Why not consider AC lighting?
I boondock right now for anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks at a time. I will likely end up living in the bus for 6-12 months (with power hookup) after returning to the lower 48 in a year or two, then go back to boondocking trips.
I have a 2000-watt power inverter, so I'm not terribly worried about maxing it out.
My only major concern is that A/C lighting will run the batteries down faster than D/C. Is this valid?
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Assuming no worse than 80% overall efficiency in conversion, you would run it down fast by a factor of 1.25. What was 5 hours as DC would become 4 hours instead.
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