Marker Lights not working

[FrugalFannie]

So none of our marker lights are working. According to info on the 'webz, DOT requires these to work. There is power going to every marker light and the wire is good. Where is the negative/Common? Haven't pulled the lights off the bus but the inside is gutted so I have access to the 1 power line that runs to all of these.

Ideas?

[Rwnielsen]

There's a chance they're grounded right at their individual mounting screws. Did you check any of the lamps?

[FrugalFannie]

Originally Posted by Rwnielsen

There's a chance they're grounded right at their individual mounting screws. Did you check any of the lamps?

1 or 2 but they all are not working. I will check all of them eventually. But it seems to be something common to all of them that's not right.

[WIbluebird]

Running lights on buses are often on a seperate switch. Try the other ones in your instrument panel.

[Rwnielsen]

Originally Posted by FrugalFannie

1 or 2 but they all are not working. I will check all of them eventually. But it seems to be something common to all of them that's not right.

I agree completely. My train of thought was maybe 1 or 2 failed and then another...and suddenly..no lights..
As is mentioned, my running lights are on a separate switch too. If that's the case you might check the closest light to the switch for power, damage, whatever

[musigenesis]

You should have a switch on your side panel labeled "CL" and a couple of other letters I forget; this is a separate switch for these lights on an International. They should also only come on when your running lights are on.

[Truthseeker4449]

Originally Posted by FrugalFannie

So none of our marker lights are working. According to info on the 'webz, DOT requires these to work. There is power going to every marker light and the wire is good. Where is the negative/Common? Haven't pulled the lights off the bus but the inside is gutted so I have access to the 1 power line that runs to all of these.

Ideas?

They ground through the socket into the mounting screws. Don't need a ground wire when the entire bus body is metal.

Check the sockets for corrosion. Half of mine weren't working and new bulbs weren't fixing it, but I had power. Removed one and looked inside the socket and it was a rusty mess. It's probably also worth making sure the actual contact between the screws and the body isn't rusty either.

This happens because most halogen light assemblies are poorly sealed at best, especially after 15 years or so.

I replaced mine with LEDs (fortunately I found a direct fit replacement) and haven't looked back.