Passenger side power outlets - wire routing?

dbsoundman · 07-12-2021, 01:33 PM

I've been poking around the search trying to find threads on this but haven't quite figured it out yet...

Trying to brainstorm a path for wiring for AC and DC power outlets on the passenger side of the bus. All of my power distribution will be on the driver's side, and I don't plan to tear out my ceiling (I know, violating the skoolie.net commandments). My floor will likely be 1/2" XPS + 1/2" plywood to save ceiling height, which means I don't quite have enough room to run 1/2" EMT underneath the plywood.

Any creative suggestions? Should I special order 3/4" XPS instead of doing the 1/2"? Run conduit underneath the bus (sounds like a real PITA)? Curious how others have tackled this. The only real reason I need outlets on the passenger side is to provide power for the actual passengers' electronic devices.

Danjo · 07-12-2021, 01:44 PM

Shouldn’t be hard to run some pvc conduit on the underside up against a crossmember and the floor. I’d to it that way.

I think technically that’s supposed to be rigid conduit

Use some galvanized pipe straps and self tapping metal Tek screws

musigenesis · 07-12-2021, 01:48 PM

Lowe's carries 3/4" XPS, shouldn't have to special-order it. Ironically, though, last year I had to order 3/4" XPS for curbside pickup three times because the first two times they kept bringing out 1/2" to my bus.

Rucker · 07-12-2021, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbsoundman

I've been poking around the search trying to find threads on this but haven't quite figured it out yet...

Trying to brainstorm a path for wiring for AC and DC power outlets on the passenger side of the bus. All of my power distribution will be on the driver's side, and I don't plan to tear out my ceiling (I know, violating the skoolie.net commandments). My floor will likely be 1/2" XPS + 1/2" plywood to save ceiling height, which means I don't quite have enough room to run 1/2" EMT underneath the plywood.

Any creative suggestions? Should I special order 3/4" XPS instead of doing the 1/2"? Run conduit underneath the bus (sounds like a real PITA)? Curious how others have tackled this. The only real reason I need outlets on the passenger side is to provide power for the actual passengers' electronic devices.

Mine is a Shuttle so might not exactly apply. My shore power inlet is on the driver's side and my power equipment is all on the passenger side next to the rear handicapped door, so I have the same issue.

I'm running all 120 VAC in conduit where it dips under the bus to cross over, and using surface mound wiremold where I can't get behind the wall in places.

magnakansas · 07-12-2021, 02:16 PM

Wire runs or wire chases.... just surface mount. Up over across the roof. Or a loop. Across the front or rear. There is also the option of under the floor and up...
William

Mr4btTahoe · 07-12-2021, 02:25 PM

Hole saw through the floor... go under the body using stranded 12awg wire for the AC runs and what ever size is needed for the DC runs. Loom the wire (or run it in conduit) and secure it to the body using proper mounts. I use stainless cushion clamps (stainless strap with rubber liner and single bolt hole for mounting). They come in different diameters.

Be sure that your runs are fused/breakered on the driver's side close to the source.

DeMac · 07-12-2021, 03:33 PM

Measure the radius where the pipe or the LB becomes horizontal.

1/2" emt is just the trade size, it is not 1/2"OD. 7/8" is the KO size, OD is more like 13/16". Straps (which, "shall be used") also have a thickness.

If you do run 120v on the underside, choose wire methods & materials which are appv'd for exposed, outdoor use and physically protected (ie Use Conduit.) No exposed wires. Even if you have to mount a jbox to the the underside of the floor (at both ends). Change back on the other side. Normal. Often, necessary.
I'm with Danjo, on the rigid or schedule 80 pvc. Bus bottom, one stick.

As William suggested, a hollow framed, decorative arch would provide a lovely chase. Pex, wires, condenser lines....

kazetsukai · 07-12-2021, 08:37 PM

I put a run inside the ribs...

#regret

If doing now I'd drill a hole in the floor.
EDIT: Need to read up a bit on this...

DeMac · 07-12-2021, 08:56 PM

---Member's post of SO reference has been delete edited--

Article 400.8 actually "bans" SO from being run inside racways (conduit) or from being used in place of permanent wiring.

Flexible cords and cables takes up seven pages and comprises more than half of Art. 400

Please, don't simply believe me, read it here:
https://www.ecmweb.com/national-elec...d-fixture-wire

If anyone already has SO buried in your build, idk, carry the burden or fix it.

(----------Edited after post #10

Kaz, No firm opinion, on mobile, solid(ac) or stranded(dc). Maybe core vs surface electron travel. Braided for lightning or dc gnd. The wire ought not flex, rub and bounce around. "Secured" is defined.

RV Slide-outs, yes. vanity drawer-receptical, sinkerator cord w/ plug....

kazetsukai · 07-12-2021, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeMac

Article 400.8 actually "bans" SO from being run inside conduit or from being used in place of permanent wiring.

Whoa. I know SO is used in our 5th wheel for the slide-out, I guess that's the "Connection of moving parts" exception.

What are your thoughts on stranded versus solid for mobile applications?

Tejon7 · 07-12-2021, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazetsukai

I put a run inside the ribs...

#regret

Just curious, why the regret? Seems like a pretty good use of an existing pathway to me.

kazetsukai · 07-13-2021, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tejon7

Just curious, why the regret? Seems like a pretty good use of an existing pathway to me.

Romex inside a channel with a bunch of screws poking into it... doesn't keep me up at night or anything as I have properly sized breakers in case of failure, but probably not the best idea in hindsight.

Tejon7 · 07-13-2021, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazetsukai

Romex inside a channel with a bunch of screws poking into it... doesn't keep me up at night or anything as I have properly sized breakers in case of failure, but probably not the best idea in hindsight.

Ah, gotcha. I was imagining an empty channel without all the pokey stuff.

LargeMargeInBaja · 07-18-2021, 01:03 PM

Well, see?
I learn something new every day.
.
2003, I ran all the electrics on one side for simplicity.
Or laziness... I forget which.
.
I run electricals through conduit into junction boxes because I am superstitious about sparky-smoky things.
Coming out of the nox, I usually install armored flex conduit.
.
I am also somewhat fuse obsessed.
I fuse neg and pos at the battery.
I fuse photovoltaic panels at the roof plus at the battery equipment.
.
I also waste money on going a size bigger than code, irregardless of run length.
.
And by 'fuse', I could mean fuse or circuit-breakers.
.
Despite fussing with this electrical stuff (read -- 'alien technology') for decades, I realize I will always be a better driver and wrencher than electrician.

Shambhala Tinbolle · 07-19-2021, 09:57 AM

Hello,

What about simply running the electric wire in armoured conduit on your finished ceiling and painting the conduit the same colour as the ceiling?
It keeps the wiring fairly accessible in case of changes later. You aren't putting holes in your metal and finished floors. You could run it in a place where the conduit would be less visible, for example where your bedroom or bathroom walls meet the ceiling.
It's a much less labour intensive suggestion. Hope it is of service to you.

much light

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