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Old 01-29-2024, 03:15 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Decatur, GA
Posts: 14
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird/International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 66
Push/Pull to Rocker Switches

Hi Skoolie Family I have a question. I want to get rid of the push pull switches to updated LED Rockers.97 BB with that honeycomb panel.Push pulls have two poles(Red&BLK) I'm assuming ground Blk and red to the battery. If I buy jumper wires to connect to the naked poles on the 4 or 5 pin rockers...can this work if I wanted the switch to be illuminated??

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Old 01-29-2024, 04:52 PM   #2
Skoolie
 
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Engine: Cummins 6.7l ISB
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Got a pic of the back or the rocker switch? Brand?

I installed extra switches into my panel and re-wired some of the existing ones for different service - was pretty straightforward...
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Old 01-30-2024, 12:59 AM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Location: Decatur, GA
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Morning desrtdog, Its the 4, 5, 6, 7 and one or two 8 pole Carling rockers. BKA THOMAS BUS. I have a love for both buses so I wanted to incorporate Thomas into the BB. I bought some jumper wires to make the connections but after that... TOTALLY clueless. I've watched those YT "How to wire a 5 pole and I keep thinking... something is wrong because one of the wires won't have a home.
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Old 01-30-2024, 12:27 PM   #4
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
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Posts: 128
Year: 2010
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Engine: Cummins 6.7l ISB
Rated Cap: 15 + 3WC
So, attached is a pic of several different switches from my bus (a BB)...These are Eaton switches, but I think the Carling variety are similar in operation.
Click image for larger version

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The switch on the left has 2 different "on" circuits, and two bulbs; the second one has online "on" circuit and one bulb; third switch was from a rear heater control, so has a "on-off-on" configuration and only one bulb; the last switch was the bus warning light start, so it is. only an intermittent switch, again with one bulb.

As I have annotated, the top row of terminals is for the light that would presumably illuminate the switch when you turn on your headlights. For the first switch, you could also use this bulb to indicate the load that is running when the switch is in the upper position.

The middle row of terminals is for the 12V input to the switch - usually associated with a circuit that is active only when the ignition is on (bus running). The terminals on either side of the middle row are for the 12V supply from the switch to the load it serves. The bottom row of prongs on the first switch serves the 2nd bulb.

On the first two switches, you will note that there are both left and right terminals in the middle - these are separate circuits (left/right) and could in theory be used to drive 2 separate loads...For example, on my bus, I rewired the overhead warning lights to be high turn signals and brake lights, but also used switches to be able to activate or deactivate this feature...So on the brake lights, I use the left input/output to actually activate this, and I will eventually use the right input/output to feed fog lights...the second (lower) switch bulb on that particular switch will illuminate when the feature is activated. (On the T/S switch, the lower switch bulb just flashes when the high turn signal flashes.)

As far as using jumpers, basically all you would need them for is to: (1) tie together two negative (ground) terminals on a switch (if so equipped), (2) tie together the positive inputs (middle terminals), or (3) tie the positive output terminal to a positive light input to have the light illuminate when the switch is "on".

Note that it is not a foregone conclusion that all of the terminals on the switch will have a wire going to it...depends on what type of switch and the needed service. Hope this helps a bit - can also see the following link for some specific tech references for Carling: https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/de...COS_112712.pdf
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Old 02-01-2024, 05:00 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Decatur, GA
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird/International
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Aye destrdog...YOU R THE GOAT. THANK YOU for that very detailed explanation with diagram. I was thinking all of the pins needed a connection in order to operate. Yes the switches are pretty much the same. Well for my front flashers.. using them for extra light/upper fogs..if you will. So, I don't need the jumpers like I thought. I truly appreciate that Carling pdf. TY TY TY TY
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