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06-26-2019, 02:55 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Wire Pricing Rant
So I go to HD to get a 25' roll of 10/2 for the shore power plug. A 25' roll of 12/2 is $19. When you jump to the next size, 10/2, the price jumps to $57. Why, it's isn't 3 times the material. Even the dept head there thought it was not right. I went in to buy a 100' of 12/2 romex, $109. They didn't have a 100' roll in stock, wanted to sell me the 250' roll. I don't need that much. How much would you pay for something you don't want? But then after checking the price, the 250' roll was only $29 more. That's over $1/ft, then $.10/ft for the extra 150'. That's just wrong, excessive profit built in. I would have bought the 12/2, but it won't handle a 30/50 amp circuit.
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06-26-2019, 03:06 PM
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#22
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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So what did you make the extension/connecting cord from? Looks like SJ type in your outlet pic...
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06-26-2019, 03:12 PM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
So what did you make the extension/connecting cord from? Looks like SJ type in your outlet pic...
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It's an RV 30a cord that had the bus end missing. Paid $30 for it and bought an end for it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254118235711
BTW, the dilemma I had trying to find the 10' of 4/0 wire I bought and thought I used it on the oven, wait a minute, the oven is a 4 wire, and the welding cable was stranded aluminum. So I still don't know where it is. Other than the usual aches and pains of getting older. My memory loss is the most frustrating.
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06-26-2019, 03:18 PM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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Gotta try and look for one locally. Someone's got one of those hanging on their garage wall they're not using anymore, after selling their camper!
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06-26-2019, 03:26 PM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
Gotta try and look for one locally. Someone's got one of those hanging on their garage wall they're not using anymore, after selling their camper!
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Here's one from the same seller. Make them a $30 offer, they accepted mine, tell them that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CONNTEK-143...IAAOSw51Vaz~ix
On a side note I mistakenly bought 2- 8' -7 pole trailer harness with junction box. If any one wants one, $20/ps
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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06-26-2019, 04:13 PM
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#26
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
I've never seen a sub panel with a 30 amp plug for sale. That's not to say they don't exist.
You could wire a 30amp cord directly to the panel. If the panel was near the rear of the bus you wouldn't loose too much length. Those cords are pricey and shorter is cheaper.
Adding a plug in receptacle wouldn't be too hard if the panel was big enough to allow it.
Most install a receptacle on the body like Mark did.
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trailers, truck campers and motorhomes I've had, had heavy duty extension cords with heavy duty male plugs wired right into the trailer/motorhome/ truck camper - I plan on doing my skoolie the same way with a heavy cord about 25' - 30' long
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06-26-2019, 05:59 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
trailers, truck campers and motorhomes I've had, had heavy duty extension cords with heavy duty male plugs wired right into the trailer/motorhome/ truck camper - I plan on doing my skoolie the same way with a heavy cord about 25' - 30' long
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I didn't want the restriction of not being able to remove the cord. Where do you stash it when not in use, mine goes in a locker or storage bin.
I assume that is how these cords were mounted and why they have no female plug on one end.
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06-26-2019, 06:04 PM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I didn't want the restriction of not being able to remove the cord. Where do you stash it when not in use, mine goes in a locker or storage bin.
I assume that is how these cords were mounted and why they have no female plug on one end.
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a little cubby hole in the side of the camper etc
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06-26-2019, 06:06 PM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
a little cubby hole in the side of the camper etc
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Mine serves dual purpose as an extension cord also.
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06-26-2019, 07:35 PM
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#30
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 10
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Mark do you have a pic of the inside breaker box I could see.
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06-26-2019, 07:42 PM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnolddivorce
Mark do you have a pic of the inside breaker box I could see.
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Using this one.
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06-26-2019, 07:53 PM
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#32
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Using this one.
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Any "main" breaker on/in it?
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06-26-2019, 07:58 PM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
Any "main" breaker on/in it?
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No, don't really see the need for it like I would in my home. I haven't popped out the plugs for the shore power breaker in the box yet.
Gotta go, got a 2 hour comedy show to watch.
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06-26-2019, 10:12 PM
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#34
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,968
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
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Most sub panels don't use a main disconnect. I added one on mine for a quick disconnect without having to go outside and pull the plug.
The subs I've seen are two phase panels and have separate lugs for two hot wires. If you do a 30 amp feed you'll only have one hot wire. To power both phases of the panel just jumper to the second lug. That way both phases will be hot.
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06-27-2019, 06:33 AM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 1,210
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
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Power feeds should be 'fused' at the 'source'. In our case, that may be a home, pedestal or generator. That said, a main breaker in the panel is certainly not going to hurt anything and can be a convenient feature.
The shore power cord on a reel is another option. The cord is then hardwired into your system at the reel. I had a plug and cord on my first RV and an electrical reel on my second. I installed an electrical reel in my coach - it's easy to stow and makes for a clean installation. Wrestling with a cold 50 amp power cord can be a bit like wrestling a 30' python (I think... I've never actually wrestled one... ).
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06-27-2019, 10:38 AM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
Most sub panels don't use a main disconnect. I added one on mine for a quick disconnect without having to go outside and pull the plug.
The subs I've seen are two phase panels and have separate lugs for two hot wires. If you do a 30 amp feed you'll only have one hot wire. To power both phases of the panel just jumper to the second lug. That way both phases will be hot.
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I did the same on my first bus and was glad that I did. Definitely doing the same on my current build.. It is definitely handy to have a disconnect inside.
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06-27-2019, 11:40 AM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
I did the same on my first bus and was glad that I did. Definitely doing the same on my current build.. It is definitely handy to have a disconnect inside.
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Wouldn't it be easier from a materials standpoint as well, to install a main breaker in the panel from the get go?
I like the idea of having a "safety net" inside just in case...
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06-27-2019, 11:47 AM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
Wouldn't it be easier from a materials standpoint as well, to install a main breaker in the panel from the get go?
I like the idea of having a "safety net" inside just in case...
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My box sits high on the board, having a breaker just above the breaker box would be unnecessary redundancy. You'd be able to reach the SP breaker as fast as reaching a separate cutoff.
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06-27-2019, 11:52 AM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,349
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30~Chevy cutaway
Engine: 5.7/350 Chevy Vortec
Rated Cap: Just me and my "stuff"?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
My box sits high on the board, having a breaker just above the breaker box would be unnecessary redundancy. You'd be able to reach the SP breaker as fast as reaching a separate cutoff.
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So what would your plan be if you needed to kill power inside, quickly?
I fall under a different category I suppose, as I'm in a wheelchair and can't simply jump out to disconnect shore/gennie power in an emergency...
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06-27-2019, 12:57 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteg59
So what would your plan be if you needed to kill power inside, quickly?
I fall under a different category I suppose, as I'm in a wheelchair and can't simply jump out to disconnect shore/gennie power in an emergency...
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Reach in and flip the switch, the same motions it would take to get to a separate breaker, unless you're referring to a breaker outside the bus?
Here's my basic electric wall, locations of items are not yet permanent. Shore power will come in right above the breaker box. This panel will be exposed and easily reachable.
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